[ET Rider]

I have checked a few 1800 valves and so far not needed to change any shims. Where is the best place to get the tools necessary to loosen the chains if and when i need to do one? Just asking

Wayne

 

[weikosteve]

I have checked a few 1800 valves and so far not needed to change any shims. Where is the best place to get the tools necessary to loosen the chains if and when i need to do one? Just asking

Wayne

Wayne, This is what Digger used and it also worked with my ABS wing This tool is not the one listed for the Goldwing but it works better, It is used on other Honda Cycles.


The cam chain tension tool, Honda P/N 07AMG-001A100

The bronze-colored knurled knob is held on the shaft by a set screw. he used a very small (about 2mm) allen wrench to loosen the set screw and move the knurled knob down the shaft a bit, (before the adjustment, the knurled knob was flush with the end of the shaft). The tool worked great on both sides after that.






Just finished checking the valve lash on my bike (see signature).

The new cam chain tension tool, Honda P/N 07AMG-001A100

worked great on the left side. Had a problem on the right side, as the frame prevented me from being able to insert the tool into the cam chain tensioner release.

I made the following adjustment:

The bronze-colored knurled knob is held on the shaft by a set screw. I used a very small (about 2mm) allen wrench to loosen the set screw and move the knurled knob down the shaft a bit, as shown in the pic (before the adjustment, the knurled knob was flush with the end of the shaft). The tool worked great on both sides after that.

IHTH someone!
__________________
Enjoying the ride,
Digger

AMA Charter Life Member #109
'05; Non-ABS; Pearl Yellow; 69,000 Miles
I don't own a cage.

http://www.astronautbiker.com

 

[1800wannabee]

I looked the tensioner tool up on DLP and it said number not found. Is there an alternate #, or maybe tools are in another listing?

 

[weikosteve]

I looked the tensioner tool up on DLP and it said number not found. Is there an alternate #, or maybe tools are in another listing?

This is where I bought it last year at a discount


DescriptionHOLDER TENSIONER Part Number07AMG-001A100MSRP60
Honda Part Number Options
07AMG 001A100
07AMG001A100
* All parts sold and priced individually. Parts availability is subject to that of the manufacturer's stock. No New Old Stock items available. Please see our parts diagram sections and Quick Entry Screens for further selections.Location
<FONT color=#0000ff size=2 face=Verdana>SpeedSupplies.Com
425 West Wilshire Blvd.
Oklahoma City, OK 73116

 

[ihringert]

This worked for me. I tried the filing/grinding/drilling of a bolt but this worked better.

On the right side I loosened the cam chain and held this with my right hand and used my left to put everything back together. Having another hand would have worked much better. I have ABS. Got the idea from others on this form.

 

[galewing]

tools

Wayne, Board, The un-wind spring is as easy

to turn as a cheep pocket watch.

 

[rmcapozzi]

I have checked a few 1800 valves and so far not needed to change any shims. Where is the best place to get the tools necessary to loosen the chains if and when i need to do one? Just asking

Wayne

I was able to order the left and right detension tools (as identified in the service manual) from my local Honda dealer.

 

[upssnowman]

weikosteve, thanks much excellent pics and good post gonna look for one now, appreciate it.

 

[Cal-D]

Wayne
If you have access to a lathe, drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send you the drawing to make your own. A board member posted this drawing a few years back, I made two and they work great.

 

[upssnowman]

Steve, is it possible that it cost this much?
http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/3286

82 bucks thats crazy
I'll call the other link Monday to try and order I'll let you know

 

[SneakySnake]

I just finished adjusting my valves and made a tool to release the chain tension. Thought some might be interested. I made it in a short time but it did work well. Make two of them and use one on each side. Cost is the price of a 1/2 or 5/8 inch bolt and set screw. Here are a couple of pics. that are not very good but you can get the idea. The body is the threaded end of the bolt. I used a cutoff rock to cut at an angle across the threads to give me a "redneck knurl". It worked very well at giving you a good grip on the tool. The screwdriver part has a flat ground on one side and the set screw is tightened close enough to be able to tighten but loose enough to allow it to slip up and down inside the body of the tool. It is hard to see in these pics but there are a couple ears ground into the body of the tool on each side of center to lock the tool in the slots of the tensioner body. Relieve the spring pressure and slide the body down into the locking slots and you have it. By the way, my trike is non ABS so some modifications will probably need to be made for the ABS models..

 

[ET Rider]

Wayne
If you have access to a lathe, drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send you the drawing to make your own. A board member posted this drawing a few years back, I made two and they work great.

Cal-D: I do have a machinist background however i do not have access to a lathe. Thanks any way.

Wayne

 

[Allen Dye]

In a world full of rip offs this tool (07AMG-001A100) is one of the most laughable ones. Must cost Honda every bit of fifty cent to make, most places online want between $90 and $100 for them and you really need two. All you really need for the left side is a pocket screwdriver and a hemostat. For the right side I cut the blade off a pocket screwdriver, slipped a coller from a model landing gear on it, replace the set screw with a 3 mm bolt about 12mm long and tied a lenth of string to the bolt. I wind the string three or four times around the shaft portion, insert into the tensioner hole, pull the string until the tensioner retracts and tie the string off somewhere on the engine. Totol cost for everthing, close to nothing as I get the screwdrivers as freebies at work and I have gobs of model stuff lying around (lifetime modeler). Thing I paid a dollar for the hemostat at a flea market my wife dragged me to one time. Watch Freds vidios and you will get the idea for the left side, use your emagination for the right side and you can save $200.

 

[upssnowman]

Thanks allen yes I thought that might be the case
I can't believe they want that much for it?

insanity

http://www.speedsupplies.com/cartdisplay.asp

 

[Digger]

While there is no doubt that the Honda special tool pictured above is too expensive, it should be pointed out that the tool is not quite as simple as it would appear....

It actually has a small ratcheting mechanism built into it that makes it very easy and simple to use on the "wind-up" side (for the non-ABS models, anyway....I can't speak for the ABS models).

But, yeah, it is too expensive. It "only" cost about 50 bux or so back when I bought mine.....and I about gagged on that price.....:shock:

 

[Pigeon Roost]

Digger does it again! You are the best archive "digger-upper" I have ever seen. Glad to see you posting! We miss old friends around here. Keep on digging up these old gold nuggets!
:joke:
prs

PS: I also use the non wind-up tool from Honda that is for some other bike at the RIGHT bank and use a small flat blade screwdriver and clamp at the LEFT bank. After several service inteval adjustments and reading what others have reported here I am comfortable with checking the lash without loosening the timing chains; I simply make a mental note to have the front cylinders', #1 and #2, setting slightly toward the higher side of center spec. The tension barely even affects those two cylinders and I have yet to witness andy difference in the other four cylinders. Making changes in shims? Ya gotta loosnen them one way or the other. ABS bikes are more tedious on the RIGHT bank for sure. A bigger difference than that made by the chain tension is the error one can get if one neglects to clean the oil off of the bottom of any removed shim and its seat in the bucket.

 

[Andy Cserny]

tool

In a world full of rip offs this tool (07AMG-001A100) is one of the most laughable ones. Must cost Honda every bit of fifty cent to make, most places online want between $90 and $100 for them and you really need two. All you really need for the left side is a pocket screwdriver and a hemostat. For the right side I cut the blade off a pocket screwdriver, slipped a coller from a model landing gear on it, replace the set screw with a 3 mm bolt about 12mm long and tied a lenth of string to the bolt. I wind the string three or four times around the shaft portion, insert into the tensioner hole, pull the string until the tensioner retracts and tie the string off somewhere on the engine. Totol cost for everthing, close to nothing as I get the screwdrivers as freebies at work and I have gobs of model stuff lying around (lifetime modeler). Thing I paid a dollar for the hemostat at a flea market my wife dragged me to one time. Watch Freds vidios and you will get the idea for the left side, use your emagination for the right side and you can save $200.

I watched Freds video, made my own tool like above. I also found out that if you pull the strring all the way out until there is resistance and then go slightly past that resistance, the tensioner will lock in that position and you can check the valves,
Andy

 

[Andy Cserny]

tool

Digger does it again! You are the best archive "digger-upper" I have ever seen. Glad to see you posting! We miss old friends around here. Keep on digging up these old gold nuggets!
:joke:
prs

PS: I also use the non wind-up tool from Honda that is for some other bike at the RIGHT bank and use a small flat blade screwdriver and clamp at the LEFT bank. After several service inteval adjustments and reading what others have reported here I am comfortable with checking the lash without loosening the timing chains; I simply make a mental note to have the front cylinders', #1 and #2, setting slightly toward the higher side of center spec. The tension barely even affects those two cylinders and I have yet to witness andy difference in the other four cylinders. Making changes in shims? Ya gotta loosnen them one way or the other. ABS bikes are more tedious on the RIGHT bank for sure. A bigger difference than that made by the chain tension is the error one can get if one neglects to clean the oil off of the bottom of any removed shim and its seat in the bucket.

I have an ABS model and I guess I was to ignorant to know it was harder on the right side.
Andy

 

[Pigeon Roost]

Andy, sometimes ignorance is bliss. Many folks have trouble getting the tool into the adjsuter opening because the ABS gizmo is right next to it.

Thanks for alerting us to the feature of the chain release winder whereas it will stay full open if forced a bit. I did not know that that. May not need the hemostat any more at the left. The tool I use on the right locks open on its own, until released. Good to know new tricks.

prs

 

[ChgoD]

So....what would happen if you just removed the tensioners? Took the bolts out and lifted them? That would relax the chains.