adjustment
Initial adjustment on both screws start at 1 1/2 turns out from bottom, don't bottom them out too tight as you can scar the needles. Start the engine, run until it warms a bit, 20 to 30 seconds, with choke off, try excellerating to full throttle. Caution, don't run at full throttle for long, if it is running lean, it's possible to burn and sieze the piston. Run throttle up and get an idea of run out, open the needle marked with "H" until RPMs drop off, the engine will start to blubber, or 4-cycle. Close the "H" needle until it smoothes out at full throttle. Let engine idle, adj. "L" needle usually in, until good smooth idle. You may have to repeat back and forth between both needles to fine tune. Usually the "H" ends up 1 3/4 to 2 turns and "L" at 1 to1 1/3 out. When you get it right, idle is smooth, excelleration to full rpm good, and at high rpm, it will slightly 4-cycle for a split second and lean to work rpms. As with any 2-cycle, it's not good to hold the rpms up for long without a work load on the engine, 10 to 15 second runs at full throttle are ok.
If you replaced the diaphram needle, that needs to be adjusted also. With the diaphram off, seat the rubber seat needle slightly, bend the metal tab where the diaphram contacts the tab, level with the body cavity. If you did'nt do this step, you can try and do the adj. and run anyway. If you can't get it to run proper, you may have to go back and adj. the metal tab. Hope I don't have you confused now. Good luck :lol: