I rode my wing to get some fuel lines for my Stihl 028. I replaced everything and even got it back together. It even runs. Here is my problem it idles really high. What is the proper adjustments for the L & H screws on the side? Any help would be appreciated.
Chainsaw Help for you small engine gurus
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Your owner's manual should give detailed steps in resetting the carb. They are not all the same. Typically, there should be an initial setting to get her going and then after she's fully warmed-up there is an idle and then a full power under load adjustment. Your GL1800 has FI and you should be glad about it.
prs
prs
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adjustment
Initial adjustment on both screws start at 1 1/2 turns out from bottom, don't bottom them out too tight as you can scar the needles. Start the engine, run until it warms a bit, 20 to 30 seconds, with choke off, try excellerating to full throttle. Caution, don't run at full throttle for long, if it is running lean, it's possible to burn and sieze the piston. Run throttle up and get an idea of run out, open the needle marked with "H" until RPMs drop off, the engine will start to blubber, or 4-cycle. Close the "H" needle until it smoothes out at full throttle. Let engine idle, adj. "L" needle usually in, until good smooth idle. You may have to repeat back and forth between both needles to fine tune. Usually the "H" ends up 1 3/4 to 2 turns and "L" at 1 to1 1/3 out. When you get it right, idle is smooth, excelleration to full rpm good, and at high rpm, it will slightly 4-cycle for a split second and lean to work rpms. As with any 2-cycle, it's not good to hold the rpms up for long without a work load on the engine, 10 to 15 second runs at full throttle are ok.
If you replaced the diaphram needle, that needs to be adjusted also. With the diaphram off, seat the rubber seat needle slightly, bend the metal tab where the diaphram contacts the tab, level with the body cavity. If you did'nt do this step, you can try and do the adj. and run anyway. If you can't get it to run proper, you may have to go back and adj. the metal tab. Hope I don't have you confused now. Good luck :lol:
Initial adjustment on both screws start at 1 1/2 turns out from bottom, don't bottom them out too tight as you can scar the needles. Start the engine, run until it warms a bit, 20 to 30 seconds, with choke off, try excellerating to full throttle. Caution, don't run at full throttle for long, if it is running lean, it's possible to burn and sieze the piston. Run throttle up and get an idea of run out, open the needle marked with "H" until RPMs drop off, the engine will start to blubber, or 4-cycle. Close the "H" needle until it smoothes out at full throttle. Let engine idle, adj. "L" needle usually in, until good smooth idle. You may have to repeat back and forth between both needles to fine tune. Usually the "H" ends up 1 3/4 to 2 turns and "L" at 1 to1 1/3 out. When you get it right, idle is smooth, excelleration to full rpm good, and at high rpm, it will slightly 4-cycle for a split second and lean to work rpms. As with any 2-cycle, it's not good to hold the rpms up for long without a work load on the engine, 10 to 15 second runs at full throttle are ok.
If you replaced the diaphram needle, that needs to be adjusted also. With the diaphram off, seat the rubber seat needle slightly, bend the metal tab where the diaphram contacts the tab, level with the body cavity. If you did'nt do this step, you can try and do the adj. and run anyway. If you can't get it to run proper, you may have to go back and adj. the metal tab. Hope I don't have you confused now. Good luck :lol:
G
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·Here's the link to the manual, page 39 and 40 discribe how to adjust the carb:volcycle said:
http://www.stihlmanuals.w1.com/stihl_ow ... manual.pdf
Can't believe my first post to the GL1800 forum is about a chainsaw!
Don
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Re: adjustment
greasemonkey said:
8) It is truly amazing what you can learn from this GoldWing board! :clap2:Packer said:Here's the link to the manual, page 39 and 40 discribe how to adjust the carb:volcycle said:
http://www.stihlmanuals.w1.com/stihl_ow ... manual.pdf
Can't believe my first post to the GL1800 forum is about a chainsaw!
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1,084 Posts
volcycle , H&L screws are for mixture. Idle speed screw is for control of
the idle speed. You may have an air leak, if you removed carb.
Low speed mixture is closest to the butterfly. If you remover carb the
linkage may be in a incorrect hole on the butterfly arm and thus the
butterfly is being held open.----Three screws----
No air leaks. galewing
the idle speed. You may have an air leak, if you removed carb.
Low speed mixture is closest to the butterfly. If you remover carb the
linkage may be in a incorrect hole on the butterfly arm and thus the
butterfly is being held open.----Three screws----
No air leaks. galewing
Greasemonkey & Packer thanks for the information. I got her done.
All Boots No Saddle you are exactly right about the information you can get from this board. Everyone ride safe and Happy New Year. (and my wife thinks I waste my time on this stupid computer)
All Boots No Saddle you are exactly right about the information you can get from this board. Everyone ride safe and Happy New Year. (and my wife thinks I waste my time on this stupid computer)
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1,241 Posts
From one grease monkey to another....ya done good!!!!!
Been in the small engine field for 26 yrs now myself.
volcycle...where you at in TN?
Be Blessed
Bloodbought1
Been in the small engine field for 26 yrs now myself.
volcycle...where you at in TN?
Be Blessed
Bloodbought1
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Toyo;
As a Vol Alum, I say;
Phhhhtttttttbbbbbbbbbbbbtttt!
Yeah; Mountaineeers!
prs
As a Vol Alum, I say;
Phhhhtttttttbbbbbbbbbbbbtttt!
Yeah; Mountaineeers!
prs
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