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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Changing my fork oil
I Read this FH link http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/forkoil
Very helpfull.

Trying to do mine without removing front tire/axle.
I removed the old oil using a suction pump.

Skocks are currently fully extended
Question.. Now what do I do ??
If I collapse the shocks by simply raising the front wheel as much as possible,and then insert the damping rod in right shock. Insert springs , washers and spacers..
Do I then fill with oil to the 5'' below top level of shock?
and
After inserting everything and oil is in etc ... can I then lower the front wheel before re-installing the screw caps. ??
(This would obviously make it easier to re-install screw caps as less tension on springs to work against but will it screw up the system) ??
or
Do I have to reinstall the screw caps with the shocks collapsed in order to have less air in the top of the shock ??

Thanks
 

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Not to rain on your parade but I think I would of removed the forks from the bike tipped them upside down and let them drain all the way out. I really don't think you will get all the old oil out with the suction gun. So I really think you are defeating the purpose of changing the oil that way. I would take the extra time remove the forks from the bike and do it the correct way not the half a** way . Just a thought :thumbup:
 

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Changing my fork oil
I Read this FH link http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/forkoil
Very helpfull.

Trying to do mine without removing front tire/axle.
I removed the old oil using a suction pump.

Skocks are currently fully extended
Question.. Now what do I do ??
If I collapse the shocks by simply raising the front wheel as much as possible,and then insert the damping rod in right shock. Insert springs , washers and spacers..
Do I then fill with oil to the 5'' below top level of shock?
and
After inserting everything and oil is in etc ... can I then lower the front wheel before re-installing the screw caps. ??
or
Do I have to reinstall the screw caps with the shocks collapsed in order to have less air in the top of the shock ??
(This would obviously be easier as less tension on springs to work against but will it screw up the system) ??

Thanks
Leave the forks extended, makes replaceing the cap much easier.....very little pressure on the caps as not to cross thread them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not to rain on your parade but I think I would of removed the forks from the bike tipped them upside down and let them drain all the way out. I really don't think you will get all the old oil out with the suction gun. So I really think you are defeating the purpose of changing the oil that way. I would take the extra time remove the forks from the bike and do it the correct way not the half a** way . Just a thought :thumbup:
I here ya !
I will probably do it the right way when new supension parts arrive.
For now, I just wanted to get rid of old oil and felt 99.5 % pure new oil is better than all that old crap in there.

i just need to know if screw caps can be put back on with shock relaxed.(extended)


I see you have racetech springs
I have a set for the front shocks on order.

How do you like them. ?
Do you know if shock oil level was different than OEM with the race tech spring installation ?
 

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The 5" is with the fork fully retracted, without the springs and spacers in, which is going to be hard to do with the wheel on. Then you put everything in the tube, completely realease the fork and screw in the cap.
 

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I here ya !
I will probably do it the right way when new supension parts arrive.
For now, I just wanted to get rid of old oil and felt 99.5 % pure new oil is better than all that old crap in there.

i just need to know if screw caps can be put back on with shock relaxed.(extended)


I see you have racetech springs
I have a set for the front shocks on order.

How do you like them. ?
Do you know if shock oil level was different than OEM with the race tech spring installation ?
I love my Racetech setup I did thecomplete front and the rear spring not only am I happy so is my wife it really made the ride and handling that much better. Since doing mine I have done 6 other bikes in my area with the same setup and everyone is very pleased. The oil level is is the same as stock with the racetech springs and goldvalves 5" .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great to hear the Racetech is working for you.
I just bought my 07 GW and love it but am looking for improved suspension. especially the front end.

I don't like the Anti Dive mechansism at all and last night did the "nickel" insert to it.

While there thought I'd change the old oil and ride out the season before modding the suspension .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The 5" is with the fork fully retracted, without the springs and spacers in, which is going to be hard to do with the wheel on. Then you put everything in the tube, completely realease the fork and screw in the cap.
Much appreciated !!
I may wind up removing the wheel assembly.
I was just hoping to avoid stripping those bleeder screws on bottom of shock. So was avoiding that route for draining oil

Perhaps you may help with one final question:
I haven't taken the right shock apart yet.
It has the damping rod in it.
After removing the screw cap. then backing off that locking nut and unthreading the damping rod from the cap...
can you then simply pull out the damping rod ( After removing the spring and spacer)
or
is there something else holding that damping rod in place.

( And Yes. I'll be ordering a service manual for this bike soon..LOL)
 

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One thing I do is to loosen the screw right after the axle is out of the way... This helps to keep the tube inside the fork from twisting while the screw (bolt) is broke free... I like to replace the washer on this bolt each time as well... Once they get crushed a tad bit, then the bolt tends to bind in the tube thus making it near impossible to remove it again... Just passing on my experiences...
 

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forks

Take the forks off and get or find someone with a good allen bit and an air gun to remove the bottom bolt. Come right out that way, then take them apart and clean everything thoroughly. This makes it easy to collapse the shock without the springs in to set the fork oil level, then put in the springs and spacers, extend the forks and put the cap on.
 

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Take the forks off and get or find someone with a good allen bit and an air gun to remove the bottom bolt. Come right out that way, then take them apart and clean everything thoroughly. This makes it easy to collapse the shock without the springs in to set the fork oil level, then put in the springs and spacers, extend the forks and put the cap on.
Plus 1 !

Take them off, take them apart, clean them well and right. It doesn't take much work to drop the wheel and take the tubes out, and it will make the rest of the work MUCH easier.

Do it right, do it once. No shortcuts, especially since this is a long-cut, and only makes the job more difficult of you don't take the tubes out.

=Dave=
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank-you all for your input
I got it done.
I wound up taking the wheel off and found that removing the drain bolts was a breeze...... Wish I could say the same about getting them back in.
But now that I know what I'm doing would be easy next time.

I now agree with all who say. "Just remove the whole shock"...LOL..:bow:

Oil all over the place, Much foul language, One cut finger etc
Almost impossible to get screw cap attached baclk onto damper rod.

I used 15 w oil
Anti Dive is now disabled
Oem springs re-installed .... for now

And just went for a test ride
What a difference.
Smoother ride, Better absoption and better rebound
Better handling.
No " Shock Lock" when braking.

Ride On..:thumbup:
 

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Thank-you all for your input
I got it done.
I wound up taking the wheel off and found that removing the drain bolts was a breeze...... Wish I could say the same about getting them back in.
But now that I know what I'm doing would be easy next time.

I now agree with all who say. "Just remove the whole shock"...LOL..:bow:

Oil all over the place, Much foul language, One cut finger etc
Almost impossible to get screw cap attached baclk onto damper rod.

I used 15 w oil
Anti Dive is now disabled
Oem springs re-installed .... for now

And just went for a test ride
What a difference.
Smoother ride, Better absoption and better rebound
Better handling.
No " Shock Lock" when braking.

Ride On..:thumbup:
Glad you got everything done :thumbup: If you decide to rebuild and switch over to a Racetech setup give me a jingle. Seems like I have a few more to do this fall and winter so adding a few more won't be a problem LOL. Good Luck :thumbup:
 

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Do ONE fork tube at a time. That way, nothing gets moved along the tree and you can just insert that ONE tube back up into the tree through all the wires, cables and stuff and the tree is still all lined up ready to accept the tube. Button the first ONE up then do the next ONE.
 
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