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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today, I was changing the fork oil, and everything was going fine, until the right drain screw/bolt won't wind out. I checked Fred's pix and noticed that the right one is longer. Surely they didn't thread this into aluminum, did they?

I've looked at the parts fish at PowerSports and can't tell if the screw is screwed into the lower housing, or the bottom of the damper. If it is screwed into the bottom of the damper, how would I hold it inside to get the screw out? Got any ideas? Got milk?

Thanks in advance.

 

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Did you remove the top cap from the top of the fork tube before unscrewing the drain screw? On my older bikes I had to loosen and remove the bottom bolt while the springs were still under tension or the inside damper would just spin 'rond and 'round. :banghead:
 

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I'm doing the same thing today......................the right screw came right out for me but the left one was a real bitch.
I had to get the wife to help and I ended up using a impact wrench to get it to budge. I think Honda over did the lock-tite on some of these screws!

I agree with leaving the caps on until you at least get the bottom screws loose.

I wonder if Fred realizes how many people he is helping out by posting the "how-to" instructions on his website? The Honda service manual is only so good................Fred's instructions make it doable by most owners.

Thanks Fred!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No, I didn't get that far. Looking at Fred's pix again, on the right side, he removed the top cap, then had to remove a locknut. I'm going to go out to the garage and see if I can hold the nut with the top removed, then try to get the screw out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I took the right fork tube off, have the cap, spring and spacer off, tipped the tube over and drained the oil. The left side had oil that looked more like gear lube, the right side had a purplish tint to it. The quandry now is that the drain screw is loose enough to cause oil to drain out, but still won't come out, or go back in. The part inside is turning. I'm done for the day, and am getting cleaned up for supper. Tomorrow is another day.
 

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I found this in the manual on the wingtechtips site mentioned above. Under the disassebly instructions for the right fork tube it says this: "If the fork damper turns with the center bolt, temporarily install the fork spring, spring seat, spacer and fork cap". I hope this helps. :biker:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, a new day brought new ideas. I won't go through the things I tried, to get the screw out. I had to remove the fork tube, hold the damper rod so the tube hung, then use a 3/8" impact wrench to remove the screw. It was the threads in the bottom of the damper that were screwed up (no pun intended). I used a tap twice to clean up the threads, and everything went back together fine. Now, as soon as 3pm Monday gets here, I can reinstall the rear half fender and then reinstall the front tire. (Waiting for the 'glue' to set on the Bushtec fender brace). :yes:
 

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LUCKY PHIL

Glad it worked out for you. When i change th fork oil i just pulled th fork legs & flipped em over ta drain & fill. I've had trouble with th drain bolts before on other bikes. Some of th Harleys had drain screws in th side of th fork legs, which i think is ah good idea. I also liked it when automatic transmission pans on cars had drain plugs. Oh well i guess that's progress. :crazy:
 

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Good Subject Right on Time

Phil your posting about your problem was right on time. Seems like there has been a few of us that were busy this weekend playing with the bikes.
I to am working on changing the fork oil and I am having the same problem with that right lower bolt. The bolt will only spin and not come out or tighen back up either. I drained the fork by taking it off and turning it up side down, but I have tried to reinstall the spring and the rest of the parts with the cap. The bolt still will not tighten or come loose. I will have to try something else tomorrow. The damper is turning inside the fork leg even though I am holding the damper rod when trying to take the bolt out.

So your not the only one having some problems, hopefully I'll fix it tomorrow.

Also the 6mm x 6mm bolts that hold the fender support to the backside of the barrels nuts are not go into the threaded hole. I tried a longer bolt even through the outside of the fender but it will not go all the way through. So I'll have a get a 6mm tap tomorrow also. I take it that your bolts went in with no problems?

Thank you for this informative board and Happy New Year to all of you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bill, you will need the tap to tap the threads all the way through from the outside. And use some kind of lube, as the directions say. As I said, I tried all kinds of different ideas to get that screw out, and couldn't believe it when I held the rod with the weight of the shock tube hanging, then used the impact wrench, and it came right out. You will need an 8mmX1.25 tap for the bottom screw to clean up the threads, if your's is like mine was.

Good luck.
 
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