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While on a trip toMaine for the lobster fest some one told me to check my trailer ball bolt Welli did and it was tight The next day while moving the bike and trailer i noticed the hitch ball was loose and ready tofall off I could not believe it so check your ball anc hitch bolt
Before each ride if you are pulling a trailer
 

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While on a trip toMaine for the lobster fest some one told me to check my trailer ball bolt Welli did and it was tight The next day while moving the bike and trailer i noticed the hitch ball was loose and ready tofall off I could not believe it so check your ball anc hitch bolt
Before each ride if you are pulling a trailer
From everything I read they should be drilled and have a cotter key. Better that than the alternitave. :eek:4:
 

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I used a self locking nut on mine after one of our group lost his trailer. He had the crossed chains so it road to a stop OK, almost!
 

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Trailer ball

I'm using a RIVCO Aluminum ball which has bolt that comes up from the bottom. This bolt is nearly 3" long and uses a flat washer and a lock washer. It will take a lot to unscrew this bolt from the ball.
 

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I have read the story. I know that if the ball is a little loose there will be banging and looseness felt as the ball keeps coming loose. I find it hard to believe that it was not noticed or felt before the bolt left the ball.
Good story on controlling the Wing as well as controlling the excitement generated. I'm glad that everything turned out okay.
 

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I am seriously gonna take a long look at my welder this weekend.

I have never had an issue with mine. I check it but not everyday.

I purchased a nylon lock nut for mine and a lock washer and used copious amounts of locktite.

I think another thing people overlook is the coupler "guts" too. If your guts are old, worn, and rusty you can buy replacement kits just for the guts of the coupler.

Besides everyone should take apart their coupler just to make sure it is adjusted right and fit for duty.
 

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Look, folks, it's no secret that the hitch mounts and bolts should be checked for tightness on a regular basis. The trailer ball mount is no exception. The good news in addition to the OP ending up ok is that this does not happen all that often or we would be hearing about it on here far more than we do. It's just good practice to keep an eye on things that go bump on the bike like this.
 

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if you stick a large washer on the top end between the ball and the trailer hotch, it will rattle when it comes loose, of course on the other side use a lock washer and nut, if you hear a rattle, your loose.
 

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This is a good thread. Yesterday I completed installing a five pin trailer wiring harness on my Wing with the intent to take out my new trailer for road trials today. I never experienced or heard of trailer balls falling off the hitch.

One thing I've always done with my trailer hitches and balls is to grease them. I've heard nobody mention grease as a method to lessen friction and vibration, reduce excessive wear on the hitch, or to smooth the operation of the trailer.

Anybody but me do that?
 

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How many have the removable type of hitch that is held on by a 3/8 pin. Ever check that? I have a Rivco hitch and check the pin occasionally. Has always been good.
 

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I'm very familiar with this problem as my bushtec ball came off the same way for the same reason (I didn't check the ball). The nut came off, the ball stayed in the coupler, a bump bounced it out of the hitch and my clue was the grinding sound of the ball shaft digging into the asphalt. I'd done the chains in the cross, and if the coupler had simple come off of the ball, nothing would have drug.

Luckily I was only a mile from home having just left. So I carefully rode home, drove down to U-Haul and got a new ball with the cotter pin and a big-a$$ ball wrench. That sucker is NOT coming off now unless I mean for it to come off. Even then I check it on a regular basis now.
 

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This is a good thread. Yesterday I completed installing a five pin trailer wiring harness on my Wing with the intent to take out my new trailer for road trials today. I never experienced or heard of trailer balls falling off the hitch.

One thing I've always done with my trailer hitches and balls is to grease them. I've heard nobody mention grease as a method to lessen friction and vibration, reduce excessive wear on the hitch, or to smooth the operation of the trailer.

Anybody but me do that?
Scott......Try using dryer fabric softner sheet, like Bounce. Just as good but without the mess. :thumbup:
 

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Scott......Try using dryer fabric softner sheet, like Bounce. Just as good but without the mess. :thumbup:
Also you can use wax paper.
 

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Trailer safety is one of my main concerns.

The Rivco hitch is a good hitch. However the ball that comes with it should be used for a paper weight while it is bright and shiny.

There are two issues. One, the neck of the ball must be large in order to have material left after drilling and tapping it for a 3/4 bolt. That means that the neck needs to be an inch or more in diameter. The larger the ball neck, the more its lean angle is restricted, because it is the neck of the ball that limits its lean angle.

Next, the aluminum ball is easily grooved by the ball clamp or claw. When the ball clamp wears a groove in the ball, it tends to hang in the groove and when backing, the trailer is jackknifed while maneuvering and this lets the trailer become a big pipe wrench that turns the ball. Of course, pivoting in one direction, it aids in tightening the ball, but in the other, it loosens the ball.

The integral stud or one piece type ball can have a much smaller neck, because there is no threaded hole to take out material. One piece hitch balls are steel, a much stronger and harder material, especially when chrome plated.

There is no way to safety the internally threaded ball except for Loctite and that is only an aid.

With the one piece ball, an elastic or deformed (Stover) nut can be used, and even if it is left loose, it will not continue to unscrew. Further, most one piece balls have enough thread length to double nut it and it would be highly improbable that using a full nut, backed by an elastic Jam nut could ever come off.

Most stores that sell trailer hitch balls also sell couplers. The easiest thing to do is to borrow a coupler from its shelf and take it to the area where the hitch balls are and simply couple them together and check for lean angle.

The one piece ball with a 3/4" stud that allows the most lean should be your choice.

The couplers do not all have the same ball clamp or claw. If you are buying a coupler, be sure to choose the one with the most lean angle. For four wheel vehicles, that is not a consideration and so the couplers are not carefully designed to have large lean angles.

PS:

With an elastic of Stover nut, it can not be unscrewed without holding the ball with a wrench. It the trailer is pad locked onto the ball, this thwarts the would be thief from removing the ball to steal the trailer, because he can not get to the ball adequately to keep it from spinning.
 

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Trailer Ball

I've read just about every post on trailers and the trailer ball. I have never experience a trailer ball coming loose on anything and I have been towing things around for 40+ years. Maybe it is different with a motorcycle and trailer because there isn't much tongue weight and that may account for the trailer balls to loosen. Just to be on the right side of safety and not wanting to experience what it feels like when your trailer starts digging up the asphalt, I've installed a 1/8" roll pin or split pin to prevent the nut from coming off. I purchased mine at the local Lowe's store.


 
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