I have speed bleeders on my ‘06 Goldwing. They make the job of bleeding the brakes and clutch an easy chore.

 

LQQks like I got some more shopp'n to do...........
I just bleed out my clutch fluid last week w/o a speed bleede'r......But next time I believe a S/B will be ordered first

 

Ive got the Motion Pro valve and it works just fine for me. Been using it for years on the trike,bike and cars. Cheaper than buying speed bleeders and does the same thing.

 

Get the speed bleeder kit and bag with clear tube. So easy! And pick up a 10mm flare for the junction above cowl. That really make all the difference on pedal firmness

 

What does “a 10mm flare for junction above the cowl” mean?

I have a 2002 wing and ordered the speed blenders
so I’m ordering what I think I need. I bought a 8mm ratcheting box end wrench already.
I just don’t know what this 10mm flare is.
Do I need one?

 

I've got the "even cheaper" Cycle Gear Bleeder valve and hose. I added longer hoses and, after finishing a bottle of New Amsterdam Gin...

...I cut a hole in the screw top lid and ran the hose OUT of the bottle, so the valve stays in the bottle and can't pull out and, the bottle has a heavy bottom to prevent tipping over. I also made sure the end of the hose touches the bottom and is down in the old fluid, for less chance of air getting in.

Works like a champ and I didn't have to worry about cross threading new and expensive speed bleeders on the bike. Just like @Audiochris90 posted, it's the same one way valve, just in the hose that you have to get anyway..

 

The issue I was having is after the first bleed of stock nipples they would seep thru the threads when open. I guess I could use teflon tape or thread sealer but if you gota take em out anyway I just put in the speed bleeders. They only need to open slightly to flow and I use them like they don’t have the checkball valve so I know nothing is going back in. Being a bachelor I use a 4ft 2inch pvc pipe with a bell on the end that slips over the foot pedal. That way I can weigh it down for the rear bleed and visually see its position. The front can be manipulated by hand. I can’t tell you what a difference it made bleeding the top two junctions above the cowl. Thats where a little bubble lives until you pressure bleed it with a 10mm flare box end, with a swivel. Solid pedal for the first time ever.

 

The issue I was having is after the first bleed of stock nipples they would seep thru the threads when open.

Over two or three fluid bleeds, I may have had a few tiny drops of DOT4 fluid but not enough to worry about.

Being a bachelor I use a 4ft 2inch pvc pipe with a bell on the end that slips over the foot pedal. That way I can weigh it down for the rear bleed and visually see its position. The front can be manipulated by hand.

At the risk of being a Smart A$$, are you using one hand to pump the brakes and the other to open and close the valve? Meaning you need extra tools to make the stretch? With the one-way-valve you just open and leave it open. Put the bottle and hose where you can see it and pump until it's clear.

I can’t tell you what a difference it made bleeding the top two junctions above the cowl. That's where a little bubble lives until you pressure bleed it with a 10mm flare box end, with a swivel. Solid pedal for the first time ever.

So far, I've never needed to attach the PCV or Delay Valve. Rear brake has been solid after each bleed.

I'm even gonna extend the recommended interval because the old fluid is just a LITTLE darker than the new. Old car "shade tree" mechanics think I'm a fool for bleeding this often, and I do 15K.

 

Also don’t forget as typical for honda shop manual there are 2 different bleed sequences depending on a conventional bleed or if you use a fancy vacuum bleeder.

 

For 5th gens, I beleive there are now 4 different bleed sequences. Manual pump method, vacum suck method, push down method (using a bleeded with a bladder), and SB-23. Keep in mind though, all 4 methods assume the worst ... that air has entered the system.

 

The problem I had with speed bleeders is multiple vehicles so you need to buy a set for each vehicle at about $7 each so $28 per vehicle and a bag/hose for $6. In the end I went with Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit (harborfreight.com)
for $25 Does the same thing, solo and has worked for years.

 

Last tip… Our clutches from the experts here are gravity bleeds. So definitely flush out old fluid but I do the brakes more often and the clutch every year. I can bleed the brakes in about 10 min so before every long trip. Also be sure to put the seal support “form” in the seal then put the assembly in the handlebar reservoir. I messed up and the reservoir lid leaked. Glad our bikes are plastic.

 

I have a Harbor Freight brake bleeder that will never be used again after installing speed bleeders. They are so easy and you won't cross thread them if you pay the slightest amount of attention.

 

Speed bleeders for me too been using them for years on different bikes never a issue,,so simple

 

I have ordered and received a set of speed bleeders for our 2018 Goldwing, going to install them when our CSC Trike Kit gets installed later this fall. Contacted Will @ CSC to find out which bleeders I needed for our Encore trike kit.
Will said I needed bleeders # SB51624L asked how many per caliper for the rear and he said 4 per caliper. Now this is for the performance disc brakes so don't know if the regular disc brakes take the same or not.
You would need to get them for the front brake calipers too.

 

I have ordered and received a set of speed bleeders for our 2018 Goldwing, going to install them when our CSC Trike Kit gets installed later this fall. Contacted Will @ CSC to find out which bleeders I needed for our Encore trike kit.
Will said I needed bleeders # SB51624L asked how many per caliper for the rear and he said 4 per caliper. Now this is for the performance disc brakes so don't know if the regular disc brakes take the same or not.
You would need to get them for the front brake calipers too.

I've found Wil to always be very helpful, and if he says 2 bleeders are needed per side, then 2 are needed.

 

Pwhoever beat me to it. I would just add they meant a 10mm flare nut wrench, or line wrench. The rocky method has you bleeding at a junction block where there is not a bleeder, so you loosen a line to bleed it.