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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to flush and replace the clutch fluid and have a couple of questions.
I've got a service manual, but the pic showing the bleed screw on the slave cylinder is confusing me. Where exactly is it located and what has to be removed to get to it?

Also what purpose does the white thing floating on the fluid in the clutch and brake master cylinders serve?

TIA for your help.
 

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The bleeder is behind the lower cowl and also behind the evap canister.

The white surfboard is to keep the fluid from foaming when you ride. If you notice, your bars move quite a bit with vibration even on smooth roads.

There is a baffle in the lower part of the res that serves the same purpose.
 

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I do things the old fashion way with no speed bleeder. The bleeder is directly above the clutch hose going to the slave. To get to is, remove the lower, frt eng cover. Then remove the charcol canister and let it hang. That yeilds acess to the slave cylider.
 

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PIECE OF CAKE....!:thumbup:
 

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:agree:
I do things the old fashion way with no speed bleeder. The bleeder is directly above the clutch hose going to the slave. To get to is, remove the lower, frt eng cover. Then remove the charcol canister and let it hang. That yeilds acess to the slave cylider.
:agree:
 

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Since the brake fluid is clear, it's difficult to see the level. When you see the white "float" in the sight glass-you know you need to add fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I do things the old fashion way with no speed bleeder. The bleeder is directly above the clutch hose going to the slave. To get to is, remove the lower, frt eng cover. Then remove the charcol canister and let it hang. That yeilds acess to the slave cylider.
Is the lower front engine cover the piece above the timing chain cover or the cowling with the driving lights?

Thanks
 

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The lower cowl with the driving lights. It takes four screws and 2 pop rivets to remove it. Then it takes an 8mm wrench to remove the charcoal canister. If you don't have one go down and get a ratcheting combination wrench. It is worth the money, other wise you could be there all day getting 2 bolts loose.
While you have the canister off you may want to drain and change out the engine coolant. It is right there with the clutch bleeder under the canister. JMHO
RogerB
 

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The lower cowl with the driving lights. It takes four screws and 2 pop rivets to remove it. Then it takes an 8mm wrench to remove the charcoal canister. If you don't have one go down and get a ratcheting combination wrench. It is worth the money, other wise you could be there all day getting 2 bolts loose.
While you have the canister off you may want to drain and change out the engine coolant. It is right there with the clutch bleeder under the canister. JMHO
RogerB
Six screws end two reusable plastic clips to remove the cowl, the canister is held in place by two 10mm bolts.
 

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Six screws end two reusable plastic clips to remove the cowl, the canister is held in place by two 10mm bolts.
That's what I get for trusting my memory. Thanks for the correction Walter.
But what I said about the ratcheting combo wrench still stands. It will save you a bunch of time.
RogerB
 

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Six screws end two reusable plastic clips to remove the cowl, the canister is held in place by two 10mm bolts.
:agree: ... and then push and pull the front farring from side to side to get the lower cover off. Drop it down then under the engine with the scoot on its center stand. Don't scratch nothing !!!! If this is your first time. Lay about 2' x 2' card board under the bike, so you don't scratch it on the garage floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks everybody.
 
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