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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All.

Hoping for some help here. Trying to remove a clutch slave cylinder on 05 Gl1800. I removed the banjo bolt and the 3 bolts I thought held it in place and it still feels frozen in place. I tried to pry at it with a straight screwdriver and I even gave it a couple good strikes with a hammer but no movement. Am I missing something? Also, might someone know what the rubber hose line that's immediately in front of the slave cylinders removal path is? If I do unfreeze it, I'm not sure there's enough room to withdrawal the assembly without removing this hose? Any other tips that might save me from myself would be greatly appreciated.
IMG_20210607_193852627_HDR.jpg
Thank you much in advance.
 

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Do you have Fred's videos on repairing or working on the bike? If not they will easily pay for themselves. I think someone is selling a set on the WTB section of this forum. Would help you immensely. Tomorrow I can see if there is a section on removal of the slave cylinder. Should be as it seems he has everything you would ever need to do on the videos.

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He is very detailed in them. Money well spent because they pay for themselves the first time that you use them.

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Billy, I'm in the process of the same job, waiting for parts. If you have the service manual it helps a lot. I notice you have the hanger (book calls it a stay) for the charcoal canister. I removed that to create some more room. The lines in the way are from the radiators and the T you see is the drain if memory serves me. Once the stay is out of the way you can move the radiator lines easily without putting any undue strain on them. Hope this helps, will be following your thread for ideas from anyone who has done this. Take care and be careful.

Crabby Bob
 
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Billy, I'm in the process of the same job, waiting for parts. If you have the service manual it helps a lot. I notice you have the hanger (book calls it a stay) for the charcoal canister. I removed that to create some more room. The lines in the way are from the radiators and the T you see is the drain if memory serves me. Once the stay is out of the way you can move the radiator lines easily without putting any undue strain on them. Hope this helps, will be following your thread for ideas from anyone who has done this. Take care and be careful.

Crabby Bob
Do like Crabby says. To remove the stay, there is a single bolt on both ends, and once they're are removed you'll have room to remove slave cylinder.

As for removing the slave. What is holding it in place is corrosion and 2 line up dowls. You might try removing the banjo bolt from the slave's hose, installing it back into the slave, and see if you can pry on that. If not, smack the slave harder. Worst case is having to order in new dowls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Won't budge. Can I re-hook the banjo, bleed for pressure(i get some temporarily) and use the clutch lever and in turn the slaves piston to try to drive it loose or is this a bad idea?
 

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Won't budge. Can I re-hook the banjo, bleed for pressure(i get some temporarily) and use the clutch lever and in turn the slaves piston to try to drive it loose or is this a bad idea?
I don’t see it ‘hurting’ anything, but it may not be enough to free the slave cylinder, as you will want it to.
 

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A heat gun, may help you out, by warming up the area, and softening the crud that is bonding it to the case.
 

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Won't budge. Can I re-hook the banjo, bleed for pressure(i get some temporarily) and use the clutch lever and in turn the slaves piston to try to drive it loose or is this a bad idea?
This idea has a lot of merit. Before you try it, put all three bolts back in, just 3 or 4 threads each, to keep the slave cylinder from recklessly flying off if/when it breaks free and possibly damages the hose or anything else.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This idea has a lot of merit. Before you try it, put all three bolts back in, just 3 or 4 threads each, to keep the slave cylinder from recklessly flying off if/when it breaks free and possibly damages the hose or anything else.


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Good idea on the bolts, wouldn't have thought of that. I'll give it a whirl a little later when I get back home.
 

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i'll try this too, thanks
There is nothing wrong with using fluid pressure to release it, other then the amount of time to do all that, and you might create a mess.

Another option is to spray the area with a penetrating oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks, GoldwingrGreg...I didn't realize there were dowel pins. I was trying to break it free rotationally as well as straight out also. So I guess it has to come straight out?
 

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Yes, straight out. If you might think it is lime corrosion then if you spray it with vinegar it will devolve the lime.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Billy, I'm in the process of the same job, waiting for parts. If you have the service manual it helps a lot. I notice you have the hanger (book calls it a stay) for the charcoal canister. I removed that to create some more room. The lines in the way are from the radiators and the T you see is the drain if memory serves me. Once the stay is out of the way you can move the radiator lines easily without putting any undue strain on them. Hope this helps, will be following your thread for ideas from anyone who has done this. Take care and be careful.

Crabby Bob
Thank you for this information. This was very helpful
 

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You are very welcome. If you don't have the Helms shop manual I would recommend it to you. I have Fred's DVDs and the Repair manual and they both have saved me a ton of money. This forum is a real help also, as there are some really great folks who know a whole lot. I'm going to keep hanging around, as you are ahead of me. We'll all learn something and at the end we'll have been helped by some good folks. Take care.
 

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Greg you obviously aren't asking me, but mine was losing brake fluid out the weep hole out of the transmission cover. I have and 01, with 125,000 + miles. Thanks for all the help.

Crabby Bob
 
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