[Elmer thud]

Hey big bird any luck on the clutch slip. Very curious to what it is or was. 👍

 

[Big_Bird]

^ all I've been able to do so far is look at the master cylinder level. It was just a hair above the top of the sight glass - still some air gap, but I removed a little. No test drive until weekend. Too much travel and nonsense.

 

[Fred H.]

I'd start by changing the clutch fluid out and bleeding the system, and servicing the clutch pivot point on the lever with grease and set the reservoir fluid level correctly so it isn't overful. I'd also inspect the return port in the bottom of the clutch reservoir and make sure it isn't clogged up. The clutch fluid can get pretty dark and dirty, and this can clog up the return port. I'd also check that the hole in the brass bushing in the clutch handle is properly lined up with the push rod, so that the push rod is firmly seated in the hole in the bushing. If that hole isn't lined up right, your clutch won't be able to fully release.

If the clutch all checks out and you still have slippage, I'd start looking at the driveshaft.

 

[BrokenBackJack]

What would be the going price to replace the clutch and associated things with it on a 2010 Goldwing Trike?
Not needing it done but wondering just in case down the road one would need it done.
Parts and labor cost?

 

[Waldo]

Hope this helps. there is a tiny hole under the baffle if it gets clogged up it can make the clutch slip. You can use a straight pin or tiny wire off a wire wheel.

 

[Big_Bird]

^ good info. Thanks, @Waldo

What would be the going price to replace the clutch and associated things with it on a 2010 Goldwing Trike?
Not needing it done but wondering just in case down the road one would need it done.
Parts and labor cost?

A lot. Don't think such things.

 

[Big_Bird]

I tried the level 1 fix -- drain a little fluid so it's definitely not overfilled, make sure the lever isn't blocked, clean and grease the pushrod at the master cylinder and replace the little boot.

No luck.

I used the test drive to go get some brake fluid. Level 2 fix attempt tomorrow, a good flush and clean that baffle c/o @Waldo . The fluid was uglier than I expected for 1 year old and there was a little sediment, so I have faith that will do it.

Worst case, I have a driveshaft to pursue and steps to diagnose. It's good to have so many issue to fault before having to crack the case open. Finger crossed.

 

[pwhoever]

A couple months ago, I replaced my clutch lever because it had developed a little bit of an up and down wiggle. The new clutch lever solved that and no more slop. But for a while now, I noticed even before the clutch lever change out, I would sometimes have difficulty trying to get into neutral and shifting was a bit difficult while standing still. I attributed it to changing put my regular drivers pegs and controls to the Roadsmith Confort Controls that provide a new shifter. I have always used the #4 setting on both my clutch lever and my brake lever. I dont remember why but before my last trip, I switched the clutch from #4 to #3. I noticed right away that I was now easily able to find neutral when stopped as well as shift into 1 or 2.

One other thing I noticed is that I changed out the lever because the slop and would sometimes not be able to start the bike in gear. Usually wiggling it while I had it pulled, I could get it to start. It got better with new lever but still occasionally still wouldnt work. However changing from #4 to #3 setting seemed to cure this as well. It will now start in gear every time.

I just wanted to pass this along just in case it might help.

 

[Big_Bird]

I'm still chasing this one. Driveshaft next.

What I tried:
1. Fluid was below the casting line but I lowered it anyway to below the top of the sight glass hole. No difference.
2. Finished a good clutch (and brake) flush last night. The clutch fluid was much darker than I would have expected for 1 year & 8000 miles, and there was even some sediment. I poked the little hole under the baffle with some wire strands. Was feeling real good about my chances. Test drive this morning, no difference.
3. Changed the oil just now. GN4, replacing GN4. It was due to be changed but wasn't burnt. Went for another little spin, expecting no change, and got what I expected.

Uggh.

Fortunately, I've got my spare Goldwing, the Deerhunter, for my ride this weekend. I'll try the driveshaft diagnosis next, probably next week. If I've got to do that, it might be a good time to get my forks serviced, too.

I guess I may still have a clutch hydraulic issue and didn't flush like a pro. Maybe I'll find out eventually.

By the way...

• the clutch fluid was grim but the brake wasn't bad. Yes, I changed them both last time.
• it seems slightly harder to spin out the engine in first, and gets easier in higher gears
• I've got an extra engine noise tone (a whine/howl/hum, slightly lower tone than the normal one) on this 06 than I do on the 10. I don't know if that's new. I can convince myself it's there but it hasn't bugged me before.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

A couple months ago, I replaced my clutch lever because it had developed a little bit of an up and down wiggle. The new clutch lever solved that and no more slop. But for a while now, I noticed even before the clutch lever change out, I would sometimes have difficulty trying to get into neutral and shifting was a bit difficult while standing still. I attributed it to changing put my regular drivers pegs and controls to the Roadsmith Confort Controls that provide a new shifter. I have always used the #4 setting on both my clutch lever and my brake lever. I dont remember why but before my last trip, I switched the clutch from #4 to #3. I noticed right away that I was now easily able to find neutral when stopped as well as shift into 1 or 2.

One other thing I noticed is that I changed out the lever because the slop and would sometimes not be able to start the bike in gear. Usually wiggling it while I had it pulled, I could get it to start. It got better with new lever but still occasionally still wouldnt work. However changing from #4 to #3 setting seemed to cure this as well. It will now start in gear every time.

I just wanted to pass this along just in case it might help.

Problems finding neutral can be caused from clutch creep. I recommend you adjust the clutch lever setting according to the instructions in the Owner's Manual.

Owner's Manual > index > clutch system > clutch lever adjustment

 

[Pigeon Roost]

Problems finding neutral can be caused from clutch creep.

At first, I thought you were talking about the guy at the Honda shop who services the clutches.

prs

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

At first, I thought you were talking about the guy at the Honda shop who services the clutches.

prs

LOL ... I finally got it.

 

[Big_Bird]

I'm 0 for 2 now.

Just completed the testing of the driveshaft. With rear wheel locked, in 2nd gear, and a little throttle, I can release the clutch all the way. The driveshaft isn't turning, per finger on boot over u-joint. I think that means the driveshaft is solid, or at least as solid as the slipping at the clutch plate, right?

I tested first with engine off:
a) again, in 1st gear, tried to turn rear wheel -- no luck. It's not completely slipping.
b) new now, in 5th gear, tried to turn rear wheel and could. The driveshaft turns, too.

All this is after doing my best clutch flush & bleed, clean the little port, and lever clean/grease/inspect.

NEXT STEPS?

It sounds like I should get the rebuild parts for both the master and slave pistons and replace all while I'm in there re-bleeding and inspecting and whatever.

I guess I could try to flush/bleed better first. I don't think I pumped it completely dry before pulling the vacuum, maybe I should. But I did put about 16 oz through so that may just be overkill.

I have not read up on the on the clutch regulator valve (see post 1). I'll glance at that, and maybe cry a little.

 

[Big_Bird]

I was hoping for one of you Goldwing whisperers to infuse more wisdom since I'm on thin ice. Though I really to appreciate the great info offered to date and have re-re-read it to try to stay on track.

I may bleed again with gusto later this week and hope for the best. Maybe jam a little more wire down that hole under the baffle. The driveshaft seems solid.

It looks like I've got a couple of weeks on the road after that so I will order the parts this weekend if that doesn't work or if I don't get around to it, then try to git 'er done in early Nov through enthusiastic if not well guided R&R.

I think what I want is #3 and 4x#21 from this fiche and #8, 7, 9, 16 from this one. Under $100 total.

What am I missing?

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

b) new now, in 5th gear, tried to turn rear wheel and could. The driveshaft turns, too.

Eliminate the hydraulic portion of the clutch by removing the slave cylinder. Remove all 3 of it's bolts, and to keep from damaging your slave cylinder, secure the back piston from being pushed out. Then retest if wheel turns in 5th.

Report back

 

[Big_Bird]

@GoldWingrGreg , aha! I understand what you're saying. That result will bring some clarity. Will do ASAP. It may be a bit. Thank you.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

@GoldWingrGreg , aha! I understand what you're saying. That result will bring some clarity. Will do ASAP. It may be a bit. Thank you.

Put a clamp like that on the slave cylinder.

 

[Big_Bird]

@GoldWingrGreg and others, I finally got around to taking the next step here. Removed the slave cylinder. Things are a little grungy. The rod seems to move fine.

Rear wheel still turns about the same in 5th. I'm pretty sure it's turning the engine, since I can feel variability from what I assume is pistons rotating through their compression stroke. I can't isolate clutch slip from engine turn

My piston is slightly extended as you can see in the pic, but it wasn't that way (at least not fully) when I popped the slave cylinder off. My spring clamp was too dainty and I had to run for the small bar clamp pictured. The cylinder oozed out a bit while I was doing that.

Should I try to compress it back in and and see how far it goes back in? How far should it? I see yours is flush.

At this point, I'm tempted to just order the parts for both the slave cylinder and master piston rebuild. Open it up and do it all. They're under $100.

 

[GoldWingrGreg]

If the slave piston gets too far out, its inner seal will possibly ride in a "cruddy" part of the cylinder and leak. If one does that to me, I disassemble it, clean it, inspect the parts, and order parts needed to over haul it. As a minimum, it will need a new inner seal, and 2 crush washers at the hose fitting.

As for the crud inside that area that the slave lives, they all look like that. What's import is that the area is dry from engine oil and clutch fluid.

 

[Big_Bird]

No signs of leaks here. Yet. Just the clutch slipping from, we hope, some crud preventing that piston from going back in. I ordered the seals and washers. Fingers crossed the disassembly and cleaning does the trick.