We’re all waiting anticipation 😱😱😱😱😱😱
Unless a hose is smashed or pinched, rarely will one be able to spot a bad flexible clutch/brake hose. If a hose goes bad, it deteriorates from within, and its inner can become like a trap door allowing clutch lever fluid pressure to pass one way, but pressure from the clutch's pressure-plate spring is not enough to force it back when the clutch lever is released. However, one can test for a bad hose ... see post #65 for that. Prior to that post, it was determined that when working the clutch lever, fluid was returning into the m/c's reservoir. If the piston at the back of the m/c is touching the c-clip, and if the fluid level is correct in the reservoir, and fluid pressure is found at the m/c banjo, that means that fluid pressure is coming from below ... it is not coming from the m/c piston or trapped fluid under the m/c cover. But no pressure was found ... it appears to be a relaxed system. Next was checking the banjo at the slave. If pressure was found there, but no pressure was found at the upper banjo ... walla ... trapped pressure somewhere in the hose. If there was pressure at the lower banjo, and the hose was good, pressure would be found at the upper banjo too. The hose tested good in post #65.For fans of the hose culprit (me too!): Visual hose inspection at lunch time: nothing glaring. One retaining clip near the steering head is slightly out of place but not deforming the hose (pic later), probably hasn't moved in 13 years, but I'll tweak it back to correct. Couldn't readily see a part of the hose run behind inner cowl.
Follow up to post #71, Greg's keen eye spotted that I put the seal on the face of the slave piston in backwards. I guess that explains why the slave was stuck slightly more on the push rod for my second disassembly. I suppose it could rob me of a few mm of travel which might be my whole problem (grit for round 1, backward seal for round 2). I'll inspect the hose more (visual and pressure) before I fall in love with that magic pill.
I couldn't tell orientation from the service manual or fiche. No help from prior seal which was an act of demolition to remove. Best guide is this pic from the full assembly part, not the piston itself. It shows the little lip up. It looked to me like that lip went down to seat into the two step cutout in the piston face. D'oh.
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Nope. Not really. The hose FINALLY got here Friday. So much for "Availability: 2 to 3 days." It's snowing here now and nothing in the 10-day forecast is going to melt it. It will be a while before I get a test drive in.Any updates Big Bird? Hopefully you got this resolved. Sitting on the sidelines cheering for you brother!!!
Just drive it gently down to Greg and let him replace the clutch. You’ll be glad you did.Update. Not a great one.
I FINALLY finished putting this together, with the new clutch hose. It still slips. WTF?
So now I've done about everything that's doable on the hydraulics. Starting to think that maybe I didn't man up enough in the "test it with the slave cylinder removed and see if you can make it slip" test. It doesn't slip really bad, but it slips. And that I may never have had a hydraulic problem at all.
My immediate plan is to try some SeaFoam in the oil for 150 miles or so, then some fresh Honda oil and see if a miracle happens. Perhaps there will get rid of an additive from its prior life (I doubt it) or magically free up the oil regulator (doubt that, too), but it's a cheap lottery ticket.
After that, I'll look for a bigger hammer.
You might want to replace your 3 coils. If it sputters and you have to clutch it and give more than normal throttle, i would suspect the coils would probably be the culprit.Clutch slipping. It came on all of a sudden. So much for a beautiful day to ride.
25K on a 2006. 8K of that by me in the last year. Prior to me, it wasn't ridden a lot but it wasn't completely ignored. I did all the maintenance a year ago when I got the bike. So it's reasonably up to date (oil is now due) and I used the right fluids. Nothing done recently to point a finger at.
In all gears, if I give it a good bit of throttle (firm, doesn't have to be HUGE), the engine revs up and the speed not so much. I have to stay with moderate acceleration to not wind up in the friction/slippage zone.
I saw this thread (among others) and this post in particular:
that focuses on a specific port as a likely suspect for the clogging. Elsewhere in the thread, drive shaft rubber omes up in the list of suspects.
@Waldo or anyone, do you the image from that old post handy? It's gone now. The one about the port to unclog.
Drive shaft at 25K seems unlikely to me. Other opinions?
I've got a little crud around the boot where the lever / pushrod / piston are in the master cylinder. I though that might be at fault but, while not pretty, the pushrod/piston seems to be moving without sticking.
Here's what the service manual suggests. Most of it looks beyond me. Hoping for a hydraulic miracle.
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