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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I checked a bunch of threads but didn't see anything that really answered the question. I have an 02 wing with about 52k miles on it. I live in New England so the bike has been sitting for about 3 months. I bought a motorcycle dolly to make more room in the garage so backed the bike out on a relatively mild day to let the bike run for awhile and then ride it up onto the dolly. The bike was in neutral while stored. It started up just fine and I let it run for about 10 minutes. Then I pulled in the clutch and put it in first gear and the bike lurched forward and the engine stalled. Same as it would have if you stepped on the gear lever without engaging the clutch. Had trouble getting it back into neutral but finally got there. Made the mistake of trying it again figuring that after 3 months I might have forgotten to pull in the clutch lever and it did it again. Now it's stuck in first gear and nothing I've tried will get it back to neutral. There's very little pressure when squeezing the lever. I noticed today that when I squeeze the clutch lever I can hear air escaping from someplace. I'm thinking the little plunger at the end of the clutch lever might be where it's leaking but haven't verified that yet. Also haven't checked the clutch fluid level yet. Any ideas ?
 

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Sounds like your clutch is leaking somewhere. I'd probably start by changing the clutch fluid and bleeding the system and then looking for any leaks. The bleeder for the clutch slave cylinder is down under the evap canister. You'll need to remove the two 10mm bolts on top of the canister and push it out of your way to get to the bleeder valve.
 

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Is all this happening with the side stand up?

What happens when the oil comes up to operating temperature .... center stand, in nuetral, side stand up, running at least 20 mins?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is all this happening with the side stand up?

What happens when the oil comes up to operating temperature .... center stand, in nuetral, side stand up, running at least 20 mins?
When it happened the first time the bike was in nuetral with the kickstand down. Started the bike and it ran for maybe 15 minutes. Now the bike won't start as it's stuck in first gear. If I hit the starter switch, the bike pulls forward. Can't seem to get it back into nuetral. I'm wondering now how I would even get it onto a trailer to get it to a dealer.
 

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:agree: with Fred, your clutch's master cylinder has an issue with either air in the system or the plunger seals are torn and not pushing any fluid to the slave cylinder to move the lifter rod and release the clutch.
 

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If you can get it on the center stand, try rotating the rear wheel back and forth while trying to find nuetral. You may need an extra hand.

Good luck, Cheers!
 

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I suspect that the clutch not disengaging is holding pressure on the gears in the transmission. Do not force the shift lever in this condition as something might bend instead of move. I would get some help to put the bike up on the center stand. That will take extra effort as the rear tire will have to slip a bit. Once on the stand you could try rocking the rear wheel back n forth while applying reasonable hand pressure to the shift lever. Again, don't force it!

The fact that you have little to no resistance on the clutch lever is a strong indicator of a lack of fluid and/or air in the system. I would for-sure follow Fred's advice to service and bleed the clutch fluid system.
 

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stuck in gear

You may have already solved this by now. I noticed your post is 14 hours old.

Unless the bike is on a slope you should be able to rock it back and forth enough to take the pressure off the clutch and transmission. Placing it on the center stand works also, but it shouldn't be necessary.

Rayjoe
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You may have already solved this by now. I noticed your post is 14 hours old.

Unless the bike is on a slope you should be able to rock it back and forth enough to take the pressure off the clutch and transmission. Placing it on the center stand works also, but it shouldn't be necessary.

Rayjoe
Fluid is up to snuff and no signs of any leaks. I'm pretty sure the little boot around the little plunger that the clutch lever pushes in is leaking. Instead of sending pressure down the line, it's blowing back past the boot. I think that's where I hear air leaking from every time I pull the clutch lever in. Anyone know if that little boot is user replaceable.
 

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Fluid is up to snuff and no signs of any leaks. I'm pretty sure the little boot around the little plunger that the clutch lever pushes in is leaking. Instead of sending pressure down the line, it's blowing back past the boot. I think that's where I hear air leaking from every time I pull the clutch lever in. Anyone know if that little boot is user replaceable.
That little boot is nothing more than a dust cover, and it could not cause the clutch master cylinder to leak. Either your master cylinder is leaking, or you have air in the system, or you have a leak somewhere else.
 

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Has any work been done to the bike since it was last on the road?


Tapatalk
 

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Fluid is up to snuff and no signs of any leaks.
How do you know the fluid is fine? Looking at the level of fluid in the reservoir on the controls is not an indication of good fluid at the slave cylinder mounted under the bike.You need to bleed it completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That little boot is nothing more than a dust cover, and it could not cause the clutch master cylinder to leak. Either your master cylinder is leaking, or you have air in the system, or you have a leak somewhere else.
Thanks Fred. There's almost certainly air getting into the system from someplace. I was going to have the clutch/break fluid flushed and filled this spring anyway so sounds like it's time for a trip to the dealer. Getting it back in nuetral is the immediate issue.
 

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Finding neutral.

Is it possible you have passed neutral and accidently placed it in 3rd or 4th. Push down on the shifter with your hand at least 4 or 5 times as you rock the rear wheel back and forth to insure your in 1st. Then use your hand to find neutral.

Hope this helps,

Rayjoe
 

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When it happened the first time the bike was in nuetral with the kickstand down. Started the bike and it ran for maybe 15 minutes. Now the bike won't start as it's stuck in first gear. If I hit the starter switch, the bike pulls forward. Can't seem to get it back into nuetral. I'm wondering now how I would even get it onto a trailer to get it to a dealer.
A GL1800 will die if started with clutch in, in gear, kick stand down, and then placed in gear. As soon as it is placed in gear is when it will die. Could that have happened originally? It a saftey thing to keep you from beginning to role with the kick stand down. It will also not turn over if the ignition switch and kill switch is on, in gear and clutch NOT plled in. Again a safety thing. Is that what is happening now? Will it turn over and start if the clutch lever is pulled in while it is in gear, with ignition switch and kill switch on?

Lets make sure it is turning over and starting under the correct conditions and they we'll check the clutch system. If you are able to get it started, then try shifting it. You may want to let it run a while so the oil gets warm.

I reread your first thread and it sounds like you already know it dies when put in gear with the kick stand down. To check the clutch m/c, pull its cover, and remove the small metal sheild with 3 fingers at the bottom. While looking down the pin hole that the silver cover covers, move the clutch in and out. Are you able to see "current" coming out of that hole?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sounds like your clutch is leaking somewhere. I'd probably start by changing the clutch fluid and bleeding the system and then looking for any leaks. The bleeder for the clutch slave cylinder is down under the evap canister. You'll need to remove the two 10mm bolts on top of the canister and push it out of your way to get to the bleeder valve.
My wrenching is pretty much limited to changing the oil and filter. Where is the canister located and what do I need to remove to get to it. Do you have any video's showing how to do this ?

Thanks.
 

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Sounds to me like the master cylinder plunger seals are bad, not pushing any fluid.
 

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Canister

My wrenching is pretty much limited to changing the oil and filter. Where is the canister located and what do I need to remove to get to it. Do you have any video's showing how to do this ?

Thanks.
The canister that Fred is refering to is beind the lower front cowl. There is 6, 5mm allen headed screw and 2 push pins holding the the lower cowl on. remove the screws and then the push pins. Once you get the screws and and the push pins removed the lower cowl can be removed. Be carful with the cowl where the top most and outer most screw where the cowl it self is lodged behind the black plastic above the cowl and the side black plastic covers inside the fairing. You don't want to break off the tabs from the cowl. Don't worry about it to much it is easy as long as your are easy with this process, After removing the cowl you will see a black cansiter middle low. There are two screws holding it on they are 10mm. open end box end wrench will reach in this small are and allow you to unsrcrew them. leave them in the braket. once this canister is removed, don't disconnect and hoses just push it out of your way,you will see the clutch plate and and slave cylinder just above the oil drain plug. On top of the plate is the bleeder value.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The canister that Fred is refering to is beind the lower front cowl. There is 6, 5mm allen headed screw and 2 push pins holding the the lower cowl on. remove the screws and then the push pins. Once you get the screws and and the push pins removed the lower cowl can be removed. Be carful with the cowl where the top most and outer most screw where the cowl it self is lodged behind the black plastic above the cowl and the side black plastic covers inside the fairing. You don't want to break off the tabs from the cowl. Don't worry about it to much it is easy as long as your are easy with this process, After removing the cowl you will see a black cansiter middle low. There are two screws holding it on they are 10mm. open end box end wrench will reach in this small are and allow you to unsrcrew them. leave them in the braket. once this canister is removed, don't disconnect and hoses just push it out of your way,you will see the clutch plate and and slave cylinder just above the oil drain plug. On top of the plate is the bleeder value.
Thanks. Excellent description.
 

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Clutch

Thanks. Excellent description.

You are most welcome Sir, I only posted this because I did not see Fred H. online. I am a follower in Fred's barn. I speak of him regularly to my little group. One another note, His video's are great for the one's that like turning the wrenches for what ever their reasons maybe, saving money or just a passion of doing our selves. I will and always suggest that you purchase them at your best chance. They very informative and certainly entertaining. You will find yourself challenging your skills once they are in the house.

DOC:thumbup:
 
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