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Discussion Starter #1
I finally have lighted trunk, saddlebags, and left cubbie. I still need to do the center cubbie and since I have to take the same stuff off for that and the gas door, I may as well do it too (too easy to have "old faithful" show up while filling). The trunk light, saddlebag light, and left cubbie light pics are no flash, that is only the LED lights I put in. The reed switches and magnets are marked circles or arrows. Everything also unplugs for item removal. A 6 wire plug for bag doors (also have red BB LED reflectors) and a 2 wire one if needing the entire bag off. The connector for the truck is in the shot of the switch and magnet (I wish Goldstrike trunk brake/tail/turn lights had one there too). The right cubbie plug is below it behind the radiator trim. The gas door will use that plug too since all of that normally comes off as one unit. All of this is also wired so if I ever figure out how to put an alarm on it (not a "bike alarm"), all switches will also trigger the alarm. I have a Clifford Alarm on my 2010 and all storage is armed via interior light triggers.


Trunk = 12 white LED's (2x6)
Bags (each) = 18 white LED's (2x9)
Left cubbie = 3 white side emitting LED's (wire and LED's recessed in lid)


Future:
Center cubbie - 3 white side emitting LED's
Gas door - 3 white side emitting LED's


I am not sure when I will get the time for the remaining lights. Too much has to come off and this bike is a pain to work on (unless dealing with tires, brake pads, and brake/clutch fluid).
 

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Very clever, I love it! When can I drop my bike off for you to do mine? lol
 

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I love this idea, and would like to do it. Can you list the parts items and where you got them? I have plenty of LED's, but have never ordered the magnetic switches.

I am questioning your idea of having a light in the gas door. I don't think you want anything with a chance of an ignition source. Just a drop of gas might give you more light than you were expecting. :frown2:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
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I am questioning your idea of having a light in the gas door. I don't think you want anything with a chance of an ignition source. Just a drop of gas might give you more light than you were expecting.

A very valid concern. I guess I was thinking more about the need to see down inside a deep dark hole that could be nicknamed "old faithful" when getting gas at night; along with the fact that the reed switches are very well sealed, and the LED's get sealed after I attach the wires. I would not be worried about a potential spark on the light initially, but after about 10 years of age in the components..... may be a very different story.


Now, for the parts...


Reed Switches:

Manufacturer Part Number MS-390-4-2-0500
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=MS-390-4-2-0500
Digi-Key Part Number 2010-1229-ND

about $5 each


The magnets can be found at Home Depot or Lowes
https://www.homedepot.com/p/MASTER-...scs-with-Foam-Adhesive-8-Pack-97604/206503483
--- the stick pad on these are worthless, I had to replace it with the grey 3m stuff to get them to stay stuck.


My LEDs are from a reel from Super Bright LEDs. I did not have enough of the top emitting, so I had to order more. The new ones were brighter and thinner than the old ones I got years ago. I still had plenty of side emitting. The side emitting are sleeved in plastic that I must seal the ends up once wired. I also got those years ago. I don't remember which ones those were, but the recent order is below.



https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...pe-light-12v24v-ip54-weatherproof/5688/12605/




Wire, almost any. I went with 22 awg that only goes to the LED's so I could keep the bulk down. That matters on the cubbie doors. With only 116mA per foot (18 LED's) and only my bags have a full foot, that wire is fine.


I wired the switch on the ground side in hopes of use with an alarm trigger. All I would need to do for that is add another wire (with diode) after the switch to merge to the alarm trigger (trips with ground input). The diodes stop one switch from grounding all lights through the alarm trigger. If there is no intent for that, switching the positive lead works too.
 

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This is great! Thanks for the description and parts list. Where did you tap into power? Right at the battery? Maybe you said and I just missed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is great! Thanks for the description and parts list. Where did you tap into power? Right at the battery? Maybe you said and I just missed it.


Fused off of the battery. That is something you want having light without having to have the main switch on to get.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Done lighting storage.....

Finished lighting the center pocket.... The two of the light were take in a dark garage and no flash. The switch is near the hinge on the underside forward of the hole for the peg in front of the gas door and the magnet is on the arm and swings in place to turn off the light. There is a plug that can be disconnected when needing to get to the air filter.
 

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