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has any one used Royal Purple's Purple Ice in their coolant to help keep the temp. down? thanks for any help.
 

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I just serviced the coolling system & added "water wetter" by Red Line it is alledgedly a good item..
 

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water wetter

How much temp do these additives supposedly cut off the high end of the temp range?
 

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Water Wetter= WW

Water, by itself, is a great coolant. Antifreeze is a poor coolant. It doesn't transfer heat as well as water. Of couse we need it for cold weather and corrosion protection. WW is a better coolant than water. It transfers heat even better than water. The T'stat will maintain the right temp, but in critical conditions, the WW will help keep the motor from overheating. I've used it in my Valkyrie for years (AZ rider) with no problems(103K miles). Haven't owned the Wing long enough to change coolant yet.
 

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water wetter

Water, by itself, is a great coolant. Antifreeze is a poor coolant. It doesn't transfer heat as well as water. Of couse we need it for cold weather and corrosion protection. WW is a better coolant than water. It transfers heat even better than water. The T'stat will maintain the right temp, but in critical conditions, the WW will help keep the motor from overheating. I've used it in my Valkyrie for years (AZ rider) with no problems(103K miles). Haven't owned the Wing long enough to change coolant yet.
were do you find ww.
Jack
 

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RMI-25 Keeps the cooling system working at full capacity by keeping everything clean and protected.
 

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I know a guy that runs a high temp prone turboed bike. He says Water Wetter works well and is effective mixed with water, with antifreeze no difference. He lives in Cali and doesn't use antifreeze.
 

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You would only use about 3 oz in your wing, there is a chart on the bottle showing the effectiveness when mixed with differant combos of water, anti and WW.

It costs about $8, I once brought a bottle home and the aluminum seal was removed. Looked like someone bought it, took what he needed, refilled with water and returned it, nothing I could do once I left the store, so check the seal!

I think wallmart sells an alternate brand. These products are big sellers in Az.

Its main purpose is to eliminate slippery antifreeze spills on racetracks, allowing 100% water and additives to prevent corrosion.
 

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E-glycol and P-glycol based "coolants" may not be as efficient as plain water at transferring heat at normal operating temps, but BEWARE! Once water approaches its boiling point and steam emminates from the hot spots of the heads, effectively shielding those surfaces from the water, very rapid loss of ability to soak heat from the hot spots will allow over-heated areas to become larger and extremely hot in very short order.

The pressure of our systems does add a bit to the boiling point of water, but a GL1800 in parade mode would, in my opinion, easily overcome even that enhanced heat tolerance of water alone. The glycol coolants not only lower the freezing temp of the mix, they also extend the boiling point upward. Some coolants are available that eliminate the water alltogether, thus providing a very high heat tolerace (resistance to steam or boiling). The bike's temp will be a little higher if the system is stressed beyond the range provided by just water, but the harmful head warping temps are then very unlikely to be approached. Plus, up in that range beyond water's toleracnes, the higher contrast between the glycol based coolants and the outside ambient temperature will more than overcome any advantage in heat transfer efficiency that water had over the coolant at lower temps.

prs
 

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E-glycol and P-glycol based "coolants" may not be as efficient as plain water at transferring heat at normal operating temps, but BEWARE! Once water approaches its boiling point and steam emminates from the hot spots of the heads, effectively shielding those surfaces from the water, very rapid loss of ability to soak heat from the hot spots will allow over-heated areas to become larger and extremely hot in very short order.

The pressure of our systems does add a bit to the boiling point of water, but a GL1800 in parade mode would, in my opinion, easily overcome even that enhanced heat tolerance of water alone. The glycol coolants not only lower the freezing temp of the mix, they also extend the boiling point upward. Some coolants are available that eliminate the water alltogether, thus providing a very high heat tolerace (resistance to steam or boiling). The bike's temp will be a little higher if the system is stressed beyond the range provided by just water, but the harmful head warping temps are then very unlikely to be approached. Plus, up in that range beyond water's toleracnes, the higher contrast between the glycol based coolants and the outside ambient temperature will more than overcome any advantage in heat transfer efficiency that water had over the coolant at lower temps.

prs
PR,

Thanks for referring to it as "coolant", which is the correct nomenclature, and not antifreeze. :eek:4: What do the ones that call it the latter refer to it in the Summer? Antiboil? :lol::lol:

Mike
 

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completed the anti-freeze change added the water wetter, had the bike ideling & see a difference in the temp already.
tomorrow I'm going to take it for a ride & will report back on the engine temps..
 

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While it's not an additive, an excellent choice for the GL1800 is Evans NPG+ waterless coolant. The system must be completely drained and flushed and when Evans is added, you have a much higher boiling point and because it's waterless it won't produce steam and reduces operating pressure. This product has been discussed before on this post and most who have used it a very pleased. It's supposed to last for the life of the vehicle. I've had it in my bike and cars for over 6 years without a hiccup. I originally looked into it because of the famous "overheating" problem.
 

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completed the anti-freeze change added the water wetter, had the bike ideling & see a difference in the temp already.
tomorrow I'm going to take it for a ride & will report back on the engine temps..
Are you sure of that observation? I think you really should NOT notice any difference at idle or normal riding conditons. Only at times when the cooling system is under stress should any such difference be observable and the OE temp gague would still not be very reliable then. Two things are working against you or for your (depending upon your point of view). One, the thermostat characteristic does not change when the chemistry of the coolant changes. It begins to open at about 165F or so and is fully open at about 190F or so. If the new coolant is more efficient, the thermostat is not going to be as far open and it will tend to keep the engine at a set temp regardless of coolant efficiency. The second thing is the temp gague programing. In is lower or cool range it probably responds with good sensitivity and linearly, but Honda has it set to hit its "sweet spot" at or just under midrange and then to be very insensitive to further upward temperature changes. That plateau effect is prety broad and more so on post '02 and even older bikes that had the "improvement campaign". Then, as the bike gets a lot hotter the temp gague increases very rapidly from about just above the mid point to buried at the upper peg. Thus, to make coolant efficiency changes you would have to average a bunch of stress runs and use a linear thermometer. At least that is the way I think it should work -- if I am misunderstanding the situation, please do correct me.

prs
 

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I used Evans in my 1 ton diesel. Over 200K miles towing a 32 foot 5th wheel. Never ever a overheat or cold issue. Evans gets hot about 350 and slushy about -40. It is pricey and uses no water at zero pressure on the system. You have to get all the water out of the radiator for it to work properly.
Chet
 

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no additives

I only use honda line antifreeze in my wing.
 

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Honda coolant

I have 4 bottles of honda premix coolant never opened
seals in place. My question is I bought them 4 years ago. I would like to use them. Does this stuff go BAD!!!
or should I buy new?

Thanks:confused:
 
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