Joined
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109 Posts
Just wondering if anyone sells replacement silicone
hoses for the 1800's.
hoses for the 1800's.
coolant hoses
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Joined
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109 Posts
I was actually wondering if there is a full set of replacement formed silicone hoses sold. Seen them only for crotch rockets it seems. Skinned it back tonight, the upper Y clamps were loose as Fred H. says. Ordered all new hoses from HDL on Saturday, plan on changing them all out.
Would of been nice if silicone was OEM.
Would of been nice if silicone was OEM.
Joined
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17,442 Posts
Unless you have very high milage or some other mitigating reason to need new hoses, you will likely find harmony in cleaning-up the fittings and using new clamps. The "Y" fittings are plastic and it would not be a bad idea to have a couple of them on hand for the change over; but even they are typically re-usable.
Those plastic fittings do benefit from some attention with a razor blade to remove the two casting seam lines that that run parallel to their circumferance at their hose mating surfaces - they can be scraped off very smoothly. New smooth function clamps with enough tightening range to get a good seal is the main trick. It seems that Honda used clamps (at least on mine) that were still not snug even though they ahd been tightened until they were out of travel. I bought NAPA clamps that had a much broader range of travel -- BUT DO NOT get carried away and crush the plastic Y connecters -- snug is good.
That bottom Y connecter is difficult to reach from above and you may find it best to lift the bike a couple of feet and place jack stands under the rear (passenger) guard bars and then remove the lift so that you can reach up from under the bike with recovery tank removed to reach those fittings. Be careful to not push the drive shapft boot off of its seat on the rear part of the shaft - if you do the final drive and swing arm are likely coming out to get it back on. There are a lot of clamps under there and you do have to seach for them -- see Fred's photo alblum and video series.
prs
Those plastic fittings do benefit from some attention with a razor blade to remove the two casting seam lines that that run parallel to their circumferance at their hose mating surfaces - they can be scraped off very smoothly. New smooth function clamps with enough tightening range to get a good seal is the main trick. It seems that Honda used clamps (at least on mine) that were still not snug even though they ahd been tightened until they were out of travel. I bought NAPA clamps that had a much broader range of travel -- BUT DO NOT get carried away and crush the plastic Y connecters -- snug is good.
That bottom Y connecter is difficult to reach from above and you may find it best to lift the bike a couple of feet and place jack stands under the rear (passenger) guard bars and then remove the lift so that you can reach up from under the bike with recovery tank removed to reach those fittings. Be careful to not push the drive shapft boot off of its seat on the rear part of the shaft - if you do the final drive and swing arm are likely coming out to get it back on. There are a lot of clamps under there and you do have to seach for them -- see Fred's photo alblum and video series.
prs
Joined
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109 Posts
We use plastic Y's in propane conversions but they don't have the casting seam you mentioned. Thanks for the info on that and access to the lower Y - joint. My first Wing so I'm still getting familiar with it, wished I'd bought one years ago.
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