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Here is a question for the techies in the group.
Is there the ability to easily and directly transfer LP records to MP 3 format or C.D. format?
If so what type of connection is needed to do this? Where do you obtain what is needed?
 

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Re: creating MP3 from an album

pearlblue1800A said:
Here is a question for the techies in the group.
Is there the ability to easily and directly transfer LP records to MP 3 format or C.D. format?
If so what type of connection is needed to do this? Where do you obtain what is needed?
Easily, well sort of as it time consuming and there is a bit of a learning curve, but not too hard.

Here is the info from Nero 6
ftp://ftp6.nero.com/Support_doc/PDFMedi ... Player.pdf

http://ww2.nero.com/nero6/fto/Tutorials ... orial.html

I personally use Nero 7 Ultra with the Creative Soundblaster Sound card.

John
 

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pearlblue1800A said:
Here is a question for the techies in the group.
Is there the ability to easily and directly transfer LP records to MP 3 format or C.D. format?
If so what type of connection is needed to do this? Where do you obtain what is needed?
I subscribe to MusicMatch and use RealPlay audio to record from their stream. What I do is look for the album there and record it from their site if I find it. I have found about half of my classic rock albums so far. The rest I record to audio CD, then rip the CD to MP3 files for the iPod.

I use Magix Audio Cleaning Lab 11 and a Creative sound blaster platinum card (the one with the module with the RCA jacks) to record with.
 

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Recording LP's

I do similar to what's outlined in jjr's response above.
I use “Total Recorder” http://www.totalrecorder.com/ to make the recording.

I also can record from whatever is going out to my computer speakers.
I built a junction box that terminates the computers sound card output to the speakers.

This junction box connects the sound card “Speaker Out” “Line In” and the speakers themselves, together.

This allows any audio going to the speakers to be fed back into the sound card “Line In”.

Just keep the volume gain down below about half or less to prevent over driving the input. You can adjust the speaker volume using their own volume control on the speakers, if they have a volume control.

I’ve recorded music from Online radio, CD drive, Tape deck, etc.
Connect the audio from any of those devices into the “Line-In” of the computer.

NOTE: If recording from an external device or the computers CD drive you will not need to connect to the junction box as described above.
The junction box is only used to record from a source like “Online” radio. These will not typically allow recording via the “Line In”

See schematic. http://www.powers31.info/RecordingInstructions.htm
 

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Funny U should ask. I've been converting my old albums for over 3 yrs now and this is basically how I do it.

http://www.phonopreamps.com/tc740os.html

Thru this setup, I input the music as a "WAV" file, into a program, "Pyro Cakewalk" in my setup. I then remove the hiss and pops and wind up with an entire side of an album as ONE WAV File. Then, I break up the album side into however many songs are on that side....generally 5-7 songs. These songs are already de-noised, so, after I break them up into their individual songs, I rename them, and file them into a folder under the albums name. It's time consuming, however, once I hit the "Start Button", I walk away and come back 20-25 minutes later and finish the job.

In the link above, instead of the music leaving the phono preamp and going into an amp, I send that directly into the "Line IN" Jacks on my PC.

Works well.........

I used to use Music Match, as that program has the capability to detect lulls in the music, but, it has introduced some problems when attempting to do so.

It's easy to do once you get the hang of it. Good luck....
 

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The fewer boxes you have in the loop, the better the sound quality in general.

Basically, use the line out from the record player to the line in on the highest quality computer sound card you can afford. They have bad noise floor problems, rf rejection problems, and all sorts of things that color and distort your music.
If your record player only has "phono out" then your sound card/mobo will need to have a "phono in" input. Barring that, use the best preamp you can find that has phono capability and only use the "line out" from the preamp.

There are several good pieces of software that will record music from multiple sources.

I suggest the initial recording not be in a lossy format, or if that is your only choice, use the highest bitrate possible. Put this version onto your CD's.

Then, use the uncompressed 'CD quality' music and turn it into a compressed .mp3 format, starting with the lowest compression rate you can, and see if it acceptable quality, and compress it again. Compress it a little more each time until you get to the point where the music is unacceptable. Orchestra music will generally be the best for this determination. Now that you have determined your satisfactory level of compression, then copy all your music at that level.

Never get an amp involved in the recording process as guaranteed you will lose fidelity and you don't need to.
 

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I have done a lot of Lp's and cassettes to To Cd conversions. Getting the stuff into a file on the PC is the easy part. What you do with after you get it there is an LP of a different color.


First of all LP's in most cases are cut in analog non-digital Dolby. I have had LP's that have never been played with with a lot of Rice Krispies (Snap, Crackle & Pop) that were there as part of the original recording.

Once you get an LP side into the PC you have to split the single file into indiv tracks. Depending on how you get the recording saved as either a wave file format you need to convert to an MP3 Format at a minimum of 128Kb.

Then you need to split the one single file into indiv tracks.

The you need some sound editing software to clean up the Rice Krispies. If the LP was played alot be prepared for a lot of sound work.

After you get each track to some degree of acceptability you need to do the same thing on the LP flip side. Split the tracks and repeat the process.

I have 1300+ Cd's I have sound edited and converted to play on my MP3 player for the bike, or in the car or on my puter. Of those probably 150 have been conversions from LP's or Cassette.

Believe me if you have never done this before and are trying to develop a process to do this it is a very time consuming and sometimes frustrating process.

All of the software to do this is FREE on the internet if you know where to find it or know which one to use. And that my friend is the trick.


The bottom line is that this is a manufacturing process,

Record in
Covert
Split
Join
Sound Adjust
Sound Correct (clean uo)
Edit tracks (leaders and Trailers)

Burn on a CD

If you want the album art in the CD case that is again another process unless you can search the net and can find acceptable art to Photo edit.

In some cases I scanned the LP cover in. Had to do one side then the other, join both images, color correct, resize and print. (Why, because many of these LP's/Cassettes were never re-issued as CD's)


These are great projects if you don't have a life, or live in an area that has 9 months of winter and 3 months of lousy sking

People can give you all the hardware advice you can use. Thats the easy part. Simple just get a stero reciever, plug in a turntable, (Make sure you have a decent stylus on the turntable)

Get an RCA plug out with an earphone plug into the Line input on your sound card.

You can use the recorder on Windows if you have nothing else, or get a free recorder piece of software off the internet

Start the recorder then start the turn table. After the last track on the LP is recorded, stop the recorder and save the file. Turn off the turntable

Next side please.

PSS make sure you ground your turtable/amp or you won't get much sound, LOL ask me how I know.
 

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JimRo, could you please post the free programs you use ? It could probably save us neophytes some time.
 

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As Requested

Music is a personal thing. It depends on what you are trying to accomplish and the source of your tunes. If you are converting old LP’s or Cassette tapes and you want a quality product when you are done it takes a lot of time and work.

I am not posting this to get in a large debate whether there is better stuff out there, I sure there is. BUT, I have used this stuff in general for 1300Cd’s so it works for me. Not everything I have or use is listed here. I have some serious software that at times is a little to serious for me. I use this software for most of the stuff. If I am doing LP conversion I need a few other more sophisticated pieces to get rid of the analog track and wear noise etc.

My only goal when I started was to create some tunes that would play on my bike, that I could hear and manage. I started this 4+ years ago. I was running amplified speakers and MP3 players on my bikes (non Wings) 4 years ago) The only thing I did was continue to improve the process over time.

The stuff I did 3-2-1 years ago sounds nothing like I can do today. All it is process development. It is a HOBBY for me.

If you are ripping CD’s, which is the cleanest and easiest that’s another thing. If you are using P2P sites like Limewire, Bearshare etc, you can get mixed results from what you download and most require editing or conversion to something.

I in fact edit most new CD’s I have depending on how the track is laid down and the times of the lead in and track ends. (Its all a matter of personal taste)

All of these programs you can find on the net FREE with the exception of Album Wrap

This is based on Ripping a CD and/or P2P down loading, not converting LP’s & Tapes etc.

Not every piece of software will do everything you need it to do in the way you want it to do it. Creating or editing music is nothing more than a manufacturing process. Raw material is a sound track, some require some major rework some minimal finishing.


1.Ripping:A decent ripping software that will correctly rip a CD and hopefully convert it to an Mp3 at 128Kb (minimal during the process) is fine, plenty of free one out there or as part of another program like Nero or Roxio. Most CD burning software will have a ripping tool.

2.Format Conversion: I hate doing anything one at a time. DbPoweramp will allow me to bulk convert files from one format and Kb rate at onr time to another. It will take MP3’s recorded at various KB rates and convert them all to a single rate like 128Kb. Just load, all the tracks run and walk away.

TIP: When you do this, convert them to a different folder on your hard drive. So if anything happens during the editing process you can always go back to your original tracks as the raw material


Sound Adjust: I use Mp3 Gain. This does not normalize it adjusts the sound levels of each track. I set the default to 97Db. It will adjust to +/- 1Db. Also can bulk adjust. I find that if you use this setting you can hear them very well on the bike, your pc or a stand alone MP3 player.

On the 2006 Wings, they have an 85W system. Prior to that we have a 35W system. However, for me I just do it anyway. I create CDs the same way.

TIP: You can load a folder or indiv tracks. I load the folder with the tracks I want to adjust. When it loads the folder it will show you each track in the folder. Suggest you run the analyze tab first so you can see what the tracks are at currently. You might not want to adjust every track or any at at.

Sound Editing: I use Audacity. This is a Sound Forge open source system. It will do about everything you will want or need to do. I used this primarily to reset the silence at the start and end of a track and edit the fade outs on a track. You will have to play with this a while until you get familiar with what and how to edit files. I use about 20% of what this will do. But that’s all I want it for.

TIP: Most CD rippers will add silence at the start and end of a track. Also many sound editors will have 10 second fade outs at the end of a song plus the track break silence. Like I said music is a matter of personal taste but this drives me nuts. So I load the track , click the plus button so I can see the track in one (1) sec intervals edit the leads and outs. If the fade out is to long I redo the fade out without compromising the artist intent of the music. I leave 3 - 3.5 second silence at the end of the track. Export the track, the key word is EXPORT, there is am export tab under the file tab, don’t use save. Export will replace the file with the file you just edited.

Tag Scanner: This is a piece of software that will allow you to edit your Mp3 Rev1-3 Tags so you can read them on your player. Can load a folders worth and just go down thru them and change what you want too.

QCD Player:

This is a neat little player I use this on my desktop as my primary MP3 player. Here’s the neat part. When you add the songs to the player play list and you can see the play list under the main controls you can right click on the song and click on the edit button, You can change the name of the file under the file name tab or click on the standard tab and change or eliminate the data on the rev1-3 tags. Can also decide how you want to hear the music etc. Have to play with it to get the attributes the way you want to hear them.


Album Wrap: This is a shareware program which is really pretty kewl.

What is does is allow you wrap tracks into a single file . When you install it will ask you for an unlock code. Open the word doc before you install so you will know what the code is. Note can only wrap MP3 files not WMA. This is a shareware program should cost about $15.00 they will send you an unlock code via email. This is the only piece of software I bought

Hint: The program will not wrap unless there is something in each of the tracks Rev1Rev3 tags. That’s an easy fix see QCD Latest comment or Tag Scanner Comment.

Caution:

If you change the name of an album wrap file and remove the _ALBW end tag you will not be able to unwrap it in the future

As a converted file in WMA format it does not make any difference because that is the final play version for the player in WMA format.


Alba Extractor: This is a program which will allow you to un-wrap a wrapped file. Why, because if you want to archive this file which I do and then later want a certain track or want to burn a CD it will extract one or all of the files to a place on your HD.

Hint: Best way to use this stuff is to name your tracks to what they really are.

BB King01 – Blue Bayou
BB King02 – Riding with the King
Etc, Etc

That way when you wrap the files in the order the CD was released in etc. And you will know what the track is vs random or

Track01.Mp3
Track02.Mp3
Etc, Etc.



WMA Tag Edit: This is a program that allows you revise the info tags on your WMA files after you convert. This is a great program for the following reasons. If you take the wrapped file and convert it to WMA file the tags on that file will not give you good info to view on your player. So what I do is look to see what shows up best on the player. In my case I have a couple different Mp3/WMA players. But I use the Sandisk more than anything so I reset two tags the Artist and on the name of the song I type in the CD VS the track name and leave the Album Title blank. Just works better for that particular player. Will only update WMA files.


BOTTOM LINE:

This is nothing more than a manufacturing process

From A CD

Rip hopefully to a MP3 format at 128KB

Run MP3 Gain to set the sound levels

Start QCD and load the tracks into the player (Re- name the data and track names and numbers (Won't allow you to cahnge if you are playing the music, just play another song and edit the rest)

Edit the track with Audacity

Wrap the CD again into a single file with Album Wrap

Convert the Wrapped file to a WMA single track file with DBpoweramp at 64Kb

Change the WMA single file names with WMA Tag edit. Store the completed files on your PC

Load on the player
 

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Numark TTUSB Turntable with USB

The above is going to be my Christmas present. You can read about the turntable at the Numark web site or at Amazon.com.
 
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