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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The cruise on my ‘03 (40k miles) stopped working and I’m supposed to head out to ride the Rockies on Thursday, and really need to get it working. (Orange light on, no sign of a green light ever) I’ve checked the (3 accessible) switches (cruise, f brake and r brake) with an ohm meter and all of those are working (contact at rest, breaks contact at activation). It looks like I have a loose contact somewhere in a connector (or the throttle roll off switch has gone soulth, but that seems a bit unlikely, as I’ve never heard of one go out.) After not working for a hundred miles, I hit a rough bridge approach and the cruise came back on for a while, but is now non functional again.

Sorry, but I don’t have my manual, as it’s loaned out, so are the switches a continual loop, and (if so,) what order are they in so I can check for continuity from ground through switches to control unit. If they are stand alone, where would it be easiest to check their continuity to see which circuit is the problem? Does the cruise control unit ever simply lose or refuse to acknowledge the cancel circuit?

Sorry, if I had more time, I could figure this out by tearing the whole bike apart, but I’m trying to cheat by picking others’ brains....

Any help or troubleshooting ideas?

TIA!!!!!!!

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GL1800 Doctor
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The clutch lever switch should read open until you squeeze the lever. Its the lower one of the two on the handlebar. It’s the oddball of the circuit, the others are closed until you activate a control.
 

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I recently had that issue with my '03. I had to push out on the clutch lever to get the cruise to engage. Figured it was the bushing. Replaced it. After 112,000 miles, that little bushing for the clutch lever looked like this:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The clutch lever switch should read open until you squeeze the lever. Its the lower one of the two on the handlebar. It’s the oddball of the circuit, the others are closed until you activate a control.
Ok... I had the switch off, just knew it was cycling open/closed...

Guess the easiest way to troubleshoot is to remove the shelter and go after the heart of the control unit?

What kind of voltage (ground) should I be finding on the Bl/Y wire at the switches?

Thanks for the help!

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GL1800 Doctor
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Ok... I had the switch off, just knew it was cycling open/closed...

Guess the easiest way to troubleshoot is to remove the shelter and go after the heart of the control unit?

What kind of voltage (ground) should I be finding on the Bl/Y wire at the switches?

Thanks for the help!

:thumbup:
Before you go that far, have you confirmed the brake lights are working correctly with both the pedal and lever? The black/yellow has 12V on it. Here’s the switch circuits.

 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Brake lights are fine with both the front and rear levers....

No fail safe mode as no green light when orange cruise light comes on.

(Got my manual back tonight). I’m thinking the rear brake cancel switch connector may not have gotten latched in during the brake recall(?)

Going to go back and check all the cancel switches, appropriate voltages and connections first thing in the morning....

Thanks for the help!

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IronMan
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Brake lights are fine with both the front and rear levers....
WHAT KIND OF "LEVER" YA USING ON REAR ? MAYBE THATS THE PROBLEM !:grin2::wink2: YOU SAID HIT SOME BUMPS AND WORKED FOR AWHILE ? MAYBE JUST LOOSE CONNECTOR . ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS ARE THE WORST . TAKE FOREVER TO DIAGNOIS . BUT GOOD THING USUALLY NO BIG DEAL ONCE YOU LOCATE IT. GOOD LUCK
 

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Vendor
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99.9999 % of the time the problem is in one of the switches (or clutch bushing). It is either the clutch switch, front brake switch, or rear brake switch. Each switch has its own set of contacts for the cruise cancel function. So just because the brake lights work it does not mean the switch for the cruise cancel is good.

I'd go back and short the connectors to each switch with a paper clip until I found the one that is causing it. Also, you could have more than one bad switch. They have a very high failure rate, I've replaced a lot of them on bikes.


If it is going off when you hit bumps, try taking your hands and push FORWARD on the clutch and front brake levers while you're riding and see if it engages. You may be able to find out which one is activating it that way.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Brake lights are fine with both the front and rear levers....

No fail safe mode as no green light when orange cruise light comes on.

(Got my manual back tonight). I’m thinking the rear brake cancel switch connector may not have gotten latched in during the brake recall(?)

Going to go back and check all the cancel switches, appropriate voltages and connections first thing in the morning....

Thanks for the help!

:thumbup:
Sounds like a good plan, the brake recall has broken a lot of bikes. Sad that Honda Techs don’t fully test their handiwork. :frown2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
99.9999 % of the time the problem is in one of the switches (or clutch bushing). It is either the clutch switch, front brake switch, or rear brake switch. Each switch has its own set of contacts for the cruise cancel function. So just because the brake lights work it does not mean the switch for the cruise cancel is good.

I'd go back and short the connectors to each switch with a paper clip until I found the one that is causing it. Also, you could have more than one bad switch. They have a very high failure rate, I've replaced a lot of them on bikes.


If it is going off when you hit bumps, try taking your hands and push FORWARD on the clutch and front brake levers while you're riding and see if it engages. You may be able to find out which one is activating it that way.
Fred, the cruise is not setting, it only came on after hitting a bump. The three lever cancel switches are all ohming out as cycling and consistently working, and have already been checked, and cleaned. Holding out on the stock levers (grips) has already proven to be ineffective, and the lever bushings get replaced as PM every winter, so they are tight.

The only switches that have not been checked are the set switch and the throttle roll off switch. Looks like the easiest way to continue the next step is to dig into the C18 blue connector as most of the control circuits go through there on their way to the CCCM.

Thanks for the input... I’m rechecking my parking lot ohming this morning. Hope I find something I missed the first time.

You guys are awesome!

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GL1800 Doctor
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Fred, the cruise is not setting, it only came on after hitting a bump. The three lever cancel switches are all ohming out as cycling and consistently working, and have already been checked, and cleaned. Holding out on the levers has already proven to be ineffective, and the lever bushings get replaced as PM every winter, so they are tight.

The only switches that have not been checked are the set switch and the throttle roll off switch. Looks like the easiest way to continue the next step is to dig into the C18 blue connector as most of the control circuits go through there on their way to the CCCM.

Thanks for the input... I’m rechecking my parking lot ohming this morning. Hope I find something I missed the first time.

You guys are awesome!

:thumbup:
One more thing, try it in fourth gear. If it won’t set in fifth, but will set in fourth, there’s an issue with the gear position switch circuits.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
One more thing, try it in third and fourth gear. If it won’t set in fifth, but will set in third or fourth, there’s an issue with the gear position switch circuits.
Will check that as well... with as many potential gremlins, it’s amazing the Honda cruise is as reliable as it is!

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IronMan
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one more thing, try it in third and fourth gear. If it won’t set in fifth, but will set in third or fourth, there’s an issue with the gear position switch circuits.
learning something new here ?? My old 05 would only set in 4th or 5 th havent tried on my 14
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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learning something new here ?? My old 05 would only set in 4th or 5 th havent tried on my 14
Sorry, Uncle John and Revrunt. Was looking at the ETM and forgot it was drawn wrong. You are correct Uncle John, it will only set in 4th or 5th gear. Danged messed up schematics, had a note about this from awhile back and must have lost it. :frown2:

Fixed my earlier post. For those that have the 01-05 ETM. On the cruise control drawing showing the gear position switches and a box(reverse regulator assembly) with two diodes in it, the diodes are drawn backward. Their anodes should be at the bottom with their cathodes on top.
 

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Fred, the cruise is not setting, it only came on after hitting a bump. The three lever cancel switches are all ohming out as cycling and consistently working, and have already been checked, and cleaned. Holding out on the stock levers (grips) has already proven to be ineffective, and the lever bushings get replaced as PM every winter, so they are tight.

The only switches that have not been checked are the set switch and the throttle roll off switch. Looks like the easiest way to continue the next step is to dig into the C18 blue connector as most of the control circuits go through there on their way to the CCCM.

Thanks for the input... I’m rechecking my parking lot ohming this morning. Hope I find something I missed the first time.

You guys are awesome!

:thumbup:
Try the setting it while 'pushing out on the lever' exercise.

If it's the bushing, the switch could be working fine -- and the lever is activating because of the worn bushing.

Easy to try while doing the 4th gear check Rob has suggested.

When the brake recall was done, many bikes were returned with the switches (cruise and brake) on the foot lever mis-adjusted. Switches are operational, so they will 'ohm out', but are adjusted to wrong position so only one (or maybe none) are cycling with lever movement. Moving and releasing the foot lever slowly by hand, should be able to hear 2 'clicks' as the 2 switches cycle.
Easy to adjust the mount for the foot lever switches if necessary.
 

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Probably a stab in the dark, but when I had a problem with seeking ground through the single ground wire to the rear lights, they would get voltage to the lights. If the cruise system gets voltage on the brake light circuit, it won't set and will cancel if it does when hitting a bump.
 
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Ok, I admit to not always being the sharpest tool in the shed, I had a similar situation with mine. I pulled the 2 screws that hold the two halves of the right switch group together, separated them slightly, and sprayed the daylights out of the switch with CRC 26 circuit cleaner and lube. Blew it out thoroughly, and put her back together. I haven't had a problem since, so it may be something as simple as a little corrosion on the on/off switch contacts. Hitting a bump may have bounced it enough to make the contacts hit for a bit. Just a thought, good luck and ride safe.

As a side note, when you're out in the Rockies, if you get anywhere near, drop me a line. I love to meet up and maybe buy you cup of coffee (or a beer if you're so inclined).
 
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Ok.. 7 hours of frustration, magic words, dust, reading, testing, and scratching my head, here’s what I found...

One of the pins in the rear brake cruise cancel switch red connector (behind the right lower vent in the shelter) was shoved back (nearly)out of the plastic connector. (Pulled the shelter and seat just to be able to get to the connector and the Cruise module) when I found it, about an hour and a half into my adventure, I was so very happy! Reseated the pin and started reassembling everything. Decided it would be a good idea to do a dry run to see if the cruise would set on the center stand. Nothing... no set light.

Ohmed the brake switch into the wires on the loom side of the red connector. Everything was hooked up.. back to the schematic, (which by the way, has the throttle cancel switch as a normally open when it is wired closed at rest) and the only other switch not yet checked with my ohm meter.

Out comes the air box and digging down to the throttle switch. It ohmed fine. (Normally closed as the troubleshooting guide taught me that the positive juice must go through all three switches when they are at rest.) Checked the circuit at the Br/R wire at the control module and I had no cancel action. Just an open circuit, both at rest and with front brake, rear brake and throttle roll off activated. Went back through all three switches and they were working fine. Finally started checking the G/W wire between the switches and found there was an open circuit between the throttle cancel and the rear brake switch.... ahh!!! There must be a connector... nope. Just a wire. No continuity. Dang!!!! Magic words... scratch head.... read... ohm.... dang!

Went back to the red connector and decided the tech who did my brake recall might have been a bit rough with this area of the wiring loom. Started opening the area where the wires enter the main loom and the G/W wire nearly falls out of the loom. It’s wires have been pulled in two, and it’s only held together by a bit of stretched plastic.

Looks like the red connector, though not pristine was making contact, but the wire had been stretched and finally gave up the ghost. My guess is the tech who did my brake recall didn’t want to pull the shelter, so he reached up and VERY forcefully pulled the red connector down to release it. ( after careful inspection, it had marks all over it...) and the wire was the weak link...

Stripped the wire, added a short piece, solder and heat shrink... voila!! Cruise set!!

Headed to Colorado tomorrow... a few hairs and skin cells lighter than this morning!

Just in case someone else ever needs to troubleshoot the linked circuit switch circuit, the throttle switch is closed at rest, not open as the schematic shows... That tidbit might have saved me a couple hours.

Thanks for all the help, guys!!

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Great job Rev. Ride it like you stole it!!
 
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