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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Followed Cruiseman's video and tore out all my light farkle (except for the trunk rack LED Stop/Run, although I did run the power/intensity adjuster to a switched hot on the fuse block), connections that were tapped into the bike's wires and rewired them to the Show Chrome Aux Isolation Fuse Block. It works fine. It probably looks like a mess in my picture, but it centralizes all the connections in one place.

See Cruisman's video for the Amazon link to the connectors. I used 5 point connectors for everything (as opposed to Cruiseman who used a few 3 point connetors), as I now have 3 lighting farkles on each side. Fork run/flashers, cowl run/flashers, and saddlebag run/flashers. I also might add the Goldstrike rear run/stop/flashers, so the remaining 5th terminal on each of the six the connectors will provide an additional connection for those. (An approx. 3" length of wire from the Fuse Block to each of the six terminals constitutes the existing use of the fourth terminal on each connector.)

It's probably not visible, but I used a 3" or so length of separate wire (white) run from the fuse block to each of the six 5-place connectors. So the remaining 5th terminal on each connector is available for farkles.

The six connectors are wired as follows:
- Left turn signals for all farkles
- Right turn signals for all farkles
- Left run lights for all farkles. (Run lights are run lights, doesn't matter what side is used.)
- Right run lights for all farkles. (Run lights are run lights, doesn't matter what side is used.)
- Two ground connectors, with the farkle grounds divided between both, as I currently have 6 grounds required, and after the connection to the aux fuse block that only leaves four connections on each connector.

I used the two available brake neg's from the Fuse Block, but any ground will do from any of the 6 available grounds. There are of course other grounds avail. from the other side of the Fuse Block for hot and switched hot connections. The only farkles I have on that side of the Fuse block (switched as opposed to constant hot), are for the trunk rack LED run/stop/intensity/hot adjuster wire, and my radar detector. (Off-hand the only thing I can think of for using a constant hot from the Fuse Block might be for an alarm, or for a farkle that has it's own on/off switch, like a trailer interior cargo light maybe?)

One of the reasons I took on this project was that my one of my light farkles stopped working, and it took me quite a long time to track down the bad connection with my trusty 12V circuit tester. It was one of those blue clamp connectors that Show Chrome provides. The teeth just don't join close enough to provide a reliable contact. These electrical farkle wires are just too thin. I info'd the vendor on this.

If you don't want to do it this way, I'd recommend Posi-Taps over the blue clamps provided by Electrical Connection. Show Chromes' actual farkles (provided by the original vendors), work and look great though, sans the blue wire clamps.

Notice that I made good use of my label maker to mark EVERYTHING, as a few years from now if you run into a problem, deciphering what you did back when might not be as easy as you think. I did this ALL over the bike, even in hidden places that I might uncover years from now.

Another note of caution, my Show Chrome, fork run/flasher wire abraided against the inside of the fork, and blew the main 20A fuse for the Show Chrome fuse block. I now have left more slack in the wire behind the fork going to the fork run/flasher. This is not the fault of the farkle, but be careful about leaving enough slack in the wire behind the fork so abrasion doesn't become a problem.

Also, These Show Chrome lights are advertised as working without using the Show Chrome Acc. Fuse Block, however I really wouldn't purchase these without using the Fuse Block. They will work, HOWEVER, the flashing part of the run/flashers will be very dim without using the Fuse Block. I called them and complained about this, and they said that by using their Fuse Block, you are bypassing the Canbus, allowing more juice to go to the lighting. So I bought the Fuse Block. Glad I did, as the flasher part of the run/flashers is now far brighter.

There are actually six of the connectors, but only five are showing in the picture.

Edited: I didn't use the connectors for my Skeene "Lic. Plate" lights as that would take away the remaining 5th terminal on the connectors that I want to leave avail. for future Gold Strike saddlebag gap lighting. The Skeene wires are currently positapped directly into the bikes OEM harness and it works fine. If I wanted to run the Skene wires also to the Show Chrome fuse block, then I would have to add even more of the terminal connectors, and at some point it gets ridiculous.

2nd pic is of the Skene lighting module, with the red positaps connection to the OEM harness poking out from underneath duct tape. As per Bartho's concerns below, I've used positaps for many years and have never had a problem with moisture/corrosion intrusion as per his concerns with the Show Chrom fuse block, but never say never I guess. My experience of course if only anecdotal

When I add the Goldstrike SB filler run/stop/turns, that will be not including OEM run/stop/turns, 6 additional run/turns to include 3 run/stop/turns. This may seem a bit of an overkill, but how much is Momma's skin worth? LOL. Not interested in being the richest man in the graveyard.

And (whew), finally, I tried to add a short low MB about 6 sec. clip showing all the run/flashers working, but this forum doesn't accept .MOV files. Note to Webmaster................

P.P.S- Sorry about the spelling of your handle Cruiseman...............
 

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If I understand it very well, this show chrome accessory is not water tight. Could this be a problem ? Under the saddle it is not protected against water.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If I understand it very well, this show chrome accessory is not water tight. Could this be a problem ? Under the saddle it is not protected against water.
No, probably not unless you put a bead of silicone under the cap. But even then, moisture could get thru the wire ports. I wouldn't worry too much about this though, as there are a huge amount of electrical connections all over the bike that aren't protected from moisture. Only MHO.

Suppose you could put a drop of silicone over the wire ports also if you were concerned.
 

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I would use amplink by Rowe electronics. I now it's more expensive but you do have a better electronic protection on all the leads what I think is very important and it's resistant against water. And a total control over current consumption max 60 amps.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rowe-electronics-amplink-power-distribution-module

I have the Amplink on my 18 DCT Tour and it is waterproof and completely adjustable from my cell phone. I have my two heated gear connectors, two additional USB lines one for my cell mounted on one side of the handlebars and one for a Garmin should I have the need to mount it on the other side. I also have the Rivco fog lights powered via the Amplink. All are set with a 10 second delay so that nothing is powered until the engine is started.


It's slick and I like it.
 

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If I understand it very well, this show chrome accessory is not water tight. Could this be a problem ? Under the saddle it is not protected against water.
In all the Goldwings I have owned I have never had any water underneath my seat. No from rain, driving thru water or washing it. Plenty of dust but no water. I have had fuse blocks on all of my Goldwings.
 

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I have the Amplink on my 18 DCT Tour and it is waterproof and completely adjustable from my cell phone. I have my two heated gear connectors, two additional USB lines one for my cell mounted on one side of the handlebars and one for a Garmin should I have the need to mount it on the other side. I also have the Rivco fog lights powered via the Amplink. All are set with a 10 second delay so that nothing is powered until the engine is started.


It's slick and I like it.
Where did you tie the trigger wires into? I want to use the triggered circuits for my heat gear and Garmin GPS.
 
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