[Wanderer]

I modified one to disable my anti-dive.

 

[kbach]

What did you do in the way of the mod?

 

[Wanderer]

What did you do in the way of the mod?

I had to file out the ID to increase the size from .562" to .650". Also had to file down the thickness from .079" to .045". Anyone knowledgeable, is that too thick? Someone posted that they used .040" wire, and I was pretty tired of filing by then. lol

I used a 3/8" round file to machine the ID and used a pair of vice grips to hold the washer while filing. I used a fine flat file, 1 inch wide, to thin it and to remove some marks made by the grips. Took about 1 1/2 hours start to finish. BTW, I started out on a steel washer and quickly decided to use the crush washer. lol

 

[DrtiBird]

I modified one to disable my anti-dive.

Wanderer,
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the purpose/advantage of disabling the anti-dive unit?

 

[DrtiBird]

I modified one to disable my anti-dive.

Wanderer,
Excuse my ignorance, but what is the purpose/advantage of disabling the anti-dive unit?

Good question!

I had been reading that slipping a shim under the Anti-dive valve nut would cure some of the stiff ride that people were experiencing.I did the mod by slipping a thin SS washer in there (cut a slot in washer with a Dremel)and low and behold, its a whole new bike on the highway. Now when I ride over expansion joints and the like, its smooooth. Not like hitting a brick at 70mph. The anti-dive still works when applying the front brake.
Took me 20mins to complete including cutting the slot in the washer.

I don't think this disables the AD, it just allows the internal piston to keep a fork oil passage open a tad more.

Fred H's web page shows the method.

Thanks,
I did see a couple of other threads on this sub and will prob shim mine also for the smoother ride.