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Discussion Starter #1
edited, Got the drive shaft in. Any one from the Portland OR/Vancouver WA area interested in the install write me.

PS Nancy and Co shipping drive shafts fresh out of the machine shop...

The following posts have pictures and You Tube video of the install. Easy enough 2 hour job.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Shaft replaced

Replaced shaft this morning with help. Took about three hours. Went smooth. Hang ups were finding the rite tools, rotating shaft to get at bolts and figuring things out. Cutting shaft with a chop saw location below the gas tank went easier then expected. I held plate to cover tank while Sawed. While all bolts were tight and took a while to remove, all came out. The rubber coupler was cracking in one place.

tools needed.
Chop Saw, mine had a 6" blade.
7/16" socket and short wrench
10mm Allen and socket for larger flange allens and a crow foot 19MM
small Allen for removal of the small split flange
Small end Boot compression ring was missing, had to buy one.
Boot compression crimp tool.

Jacked up Trike with a Harbor Freight MC jack, jack stands and bricks, kick stand down.
Unbolted the shaft brace (two 7/16 or 11mm nuts)
I removed the old shaft nuts and bolts.
Chopped off end of CSC coupling shaft.
Reassembled.
3 hours, on the easy side. Very do-able. Pics to follow.
 

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Thanks for the update
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Trike drive shaft

Pic of removed Items. Chop saw part removed. New CV joint installed. Old rubber coupler.
IMG_5023.JPG IMG_5025.JPG IMG_5021.JPG IMG_5019.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #5
MT Trike install

Photo of drive shaft from top, Right side panel, looking into the CSC flange and the section that needs to be removed.
IMG_5020.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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drive shaft swap

Thanks for the nice pix and the videos. CV joint looks like the venerable VW bug unit. As long as the boot stays intact the CV joint is nearly indestructible. Far sturdier than the rubber biscuit.
 

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Ok guys, I haven't owned a GW trike in a while...what's the skinny on all the MT drive shaft update??
Susan's trike is a 07 triked in 07 when new...I haven't spoke with the trike installer and the previous owner is not that GW or trike savvy....

Did a search and only found this thread.

Thanks for any direction or info...I have the Mountian Trike web site....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Drive shaft Shaft replacement

For California Sidecar only>In my opinion only:
The drive shaft with rubber coupler fails to align the offset drive shaft into the drive gearbox without the posablity future failure. Seals may fail (from other posts in this site). My pinion gear failed taking out the rear drive and replaced under warranty, about $3000 for trany. The CV I believe is a better design. So it maybe that the rubber coupler just gets worn out or did not filter out vibrations. The alternative is the weld fix done under warranty (see other threads here).

The rubber coupler maybe from a large pump application for a electric motor.

PS added this final you tube post
http://youtu.be/v-peFQ1qzK8
 

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New Shaft Installed

I installed my shaft this last weeked. Mountain Trikes has done a great job with this package and the service is first rate.

The test ride was the smoothest I can remember.
 

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Will MT Trike do the install? anyone have a price if they do?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
MT Trike install

They have, I'd call. Let us know.
 

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Is this the Cobra xl or Cobra? It looks like there is not a transfer case, is that correct? From the brochures on the CSC site the Viper and the Cobra kit have transfer cases, and the Cobra xl does not. Is this fix needed if the kit had a transfer case? Thanks and sorry for all the questions. Good pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
CSC drive shaft

Cobra
 

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Discussion Starter #16
CSC CV joint install

What I have learned about the install. IE. Notes to self.

1. Use "Blue" sparingly, smooth with finger to about 1mm or 1/16". Avoid getting it into the bearing races. Allow to set up 2-24 hours befor ride.

2. The allen bolts can catch on the CV boot clamp. Use shim stock between the bolt and clamp on the two allens near the connection to prevent them from snagging the clamp, the other don't seem to catch.. The tight fit of the bolts and clamp seems to hold the CV boot in place. (Shim stock, you can use an old feeler gauge as shim stock. This just allows the bolt to slide on the feeler gauge instead of caching on clamp). New crimp clamps from NAPA Auto PARTS.

3. I used a mini air ratchet from Harbor Freight to run the allen bolts in and out to save time. First starting them, running them in, stoping and then Torgue only to 18 ft/lbs.

4. I took the whole drive shaft out to assemble the and put the boot on. Good time to lube and clean the Honda drive shaft splines.

5. FWI. Check the NEW CV joint Drive shaft C clamp, make sure its in place. If not, The CV will come off the shaft, if the C clamp/CV joint comes off, no power to rear will will result.

6. Check after test run for leaks and loose parts.

7. Problem? Take your time and do it neatly. OR Call Stan...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
CSC rebuilt shaft

Run note, wife reports it seems to shift smoother with the new shaft.
 

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For California Sidecar only>In my opinion only:
The drive shaft with rubber coupler fails to align the offset drive shaft into the drive gearbox without the posablity future failure. Seals may fail (from other posts in this site). My pinion gear failed taking out the rear drive and replaced under warranty. The CV I believe is a better design. So it maybe that the rubber coupler just gets worn out or did not filter out vibrations. The alternative is the weld fix done under warranty (see other threads here).

The rubber coupler maybe from a large pump application for a electric motor.

PS added this final you tube post
http://youtu.be/v-peFQ1qzK8
Thanks for the videos. Is it a problem that even the new driveshaft is offset, or is an offset driveshaft pretty usual in automobiles or such?
 

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I think that the Guibo (rubber coupling) is receiving far more blame than it deserves. BMW and other car companies have used them for eons in cars with far greater torque and HP than the goldwing produces. I think the problem stems from the unnatural alignment of the differential with the transmission output on some trikes.
 

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I think that the Guibo (rubber coupling) is receiving far more blame than it deserves. BMW and other car companies have used them for eons in cars with far greater torque and HP than the goldwing produces. I think the problem stems from the unnatural alignment of the differential with the transmission output on some trikes.

:agree:-I have been driving BMW cars since 1976 and have never replaced a Guibo!
 
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