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On a recent trip to Texas, my FI light came on shortly after a fuel stop. I continued riding to the next exit and stopped the engine. I restarted it and the light went out. Everything has worked fine since. There was no noticeable change with engine sound or performance when the light came on. I am wondering if this was just some sort of glitch or if it may be a prelude to something. It has been about 1,600 miles since that episode and no other occurances. Whatchathink?
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Probably just a oxygen sensor hiccup. If it ever comes on again, stop on the side of the road, put it in neutral and put the sidestand down, it will flash the FI light to indicate the code for the fault. DON'T shut off the engine! That will cause the ECM to reset the light. :D
 

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The PGM-FI malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) denotes the failure codes (the number of blinks from 0 to 33). The MIL has two types of blinks, a long blink and short blink. The long blink lasts for 1.3 seconds, the short blink lasts for 0.5 seconds. When a long blink occurs, that counts for 10 blinks of the MIL. The short blink counts for one MIL blink. Therefore, if the MIL blinks two long blinks, and one short blink, that problem code is 21 (two long blinks = 20 blinks, one short blink = 1 blink). Then, go to the flow chart and see problem code 21.
When the Engine Control Module (ECM) stores some failure codes, the MIL shows the failure codes in the order from the lowest number to highest number.

More Info when just the light comes on:



Stays lit:
Short circuit in service check connector wire
Short circuit in MIL wire
Faulty ECM
(Engine operates normally)


General

Work in a well ventilated area. Smoking or allowing flames or sparks in the work area or where gasoline is stored can cause a fire or explosion.
Be sure to relieve the fuel pressure with the ignition switch turned to "OFF".
Bending or twisting the control cables will impair smooth operation and could cause the cables to stick or bind, resulting in loss of vehicle control.
Do not apply commercially available carburetor cleaners to the inside of the throttle bore, which is coated with molybdenum.
Do not snap the throttle valve from full open to full close after the throttle cable has been removed. It may cause incorrect idle operation.
Seal the intake manifold ports with tape or a clean cloth to keep dirt and debris from entering the engine after the throttle body has been removed.
Do not damage the throttle body. It may cause incorrect throttle and idle valve synchronization.
Prevent dirt and debris from entering the air passages after the throttle body has been removed. Clean them using compressed air if necessary.
The throttle body is factory pre-set. Do not disassemble in a way other than shown in this manual.
Do not loosen or tighten the white painted bolts, nuts and screws of the throttle body. Loosening or tightening them can cause throttle and idle valve synchronization failure.
Tighten the yellow painted bolts of the fuel pipes to the specified torque.
The parts of the throttle body not shown in this manual should not be disassembled.
Always replace the O-ring when the fuel pump is removed.
The PGM-FI (Programmed Fuel Injection) system is equipped with the self-diagnostic system.
When checking the PGM-FI system, always follow the steps in the troubleshooting flow chart.
The PGM-FI system is provided with a fail-safe function to secure a minimum running capability even when there is trouble in the system. When any abnormality is detected by the self-diagnosis function, running capability is maintained by preset value in the simulated program map. When any abnormality is detected in the injector(s), ignition pulse generator and/or cam pulse generator, the fail-safe function stops the engine to protect it from damage.
A faulty PGM-FI system is often related to poorly connected or corroded connections. Check those connections before proceeding.
When disassembling the fuel system parts, note the location of the O-rings. Replace them with new ones upon reassembly.
Always replace the sealing washer when the sealing bolt in the fuel pipe is removed or loosened.
Use a digital tester for PGM-FI system inspection.
See " Ignition System" for FI IGN relay inspection.
See "Lights/Meters/Switches" for information on following components:


Complete info is your service manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for those replies. I'll see what developes now and know a little better as to how to check this out. Thanks again.
 

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Here's the complete run down on the error codes:

If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code. Also known as Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL)

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms
.Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

...................

Engine cranks but won’t start
• No fuel in tank, • No fuel to injector, – Clogged fuel filter, – Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, – Pinched or clogged fuel tank breather tube, – Faulty fuel pump, – Faulty fuel pump circuits, • Intake air leak, • Contaminated / deteriorated fuel, • Faulty fuel injector, • Idle air control valve stuck closed, • No spark at plug Faulty ignition system

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Restricted fuel feed hose, • Contaminated/deteriorated fuel, • Intake air leak, • Faulty idle air control valve, • Restricted fuel tank breather tube, • Misadjusted idle adjusting screw, • Faulty ignition system

Afterburn when engine braking is used
• Faulty pulse secondary air injection (PAIR) system, – Faulty PAIR control solenoid valve, – Faulty PAIR check valve, – Clogged hose of the PAIR system, • Faulty ignition system

Backfiring or misfiring during acceleration
• Faulty ignition system

Poor performance drive-ability and poor fuel economy
• Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, • Faulty pressure regulator, • Faulty ignition system
 

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Mine did that once also. I took it to the dealer, and they found no codes. That was about nine months ago, and it has not done it again.
 
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