That is why the rear wheel can spin. If it was leaning on the kickstand that would not be mentioned.Where do we find that info?
I haven't found anything about kickstand position in the DCT initialize procedure in service manual.
(but I think I recall that, or similar, kickstand info being mentioned before)
I must have a different motorcycle because I’ve done both CIP procedures on the side stand. Add to that that Cruiseman, Maxx at TAXX and Fred Harmon all showed videos on either the side stand or center stand with the rear wheel blocked so it can’t spin.Read the instructions, it states that the stand must be up.
I did the same thing last year. Disconnect negative battery cable for a minute.I tried it today.
Didn't block the rear wheel for the first 3 minutes
Then after 10 minutes nothing happened , so I turned the bike off and on again:
the TOUR mode didn't show. just had the N ----.
Tried again 3 times with the RW blocked by parking brake.
No way to have the mode indicator normally on.
Gone for a ride : no automatic shifting : have to switch gears using the buttons.
I'm currently letting my bike cool off and will give it a try again in a hour.
I think I saw you today!It worked !!!
just tried agin and went to "TOUR" in less than a minute.
Indeed improved the reverse and F nicely (from a barely usable to nice and smooth) : after a frightening first attempt : no movement at all : but that was just the hand brake still on.
Took a very short ride in Paris crowded street, not a huge difference in shifting but it wasn't really an issue before : you can hear the shift but barely fell it, except maybe in sport mode, which is not your favorite choice for city riding.
Thanks, CIP threw me off Clutch Initialization Procedure DUH!. Started off with checking oil level, it was good. Next tried disconnecting battery for reboot. And what do you know everything seems to be working. Thanks for everyones help.Attached is a video that shows how to initialize the clutches on the bikes with DCT Transmissions. This may need to be done periodically as the clutch plates wear, or after initial break in. If you notice the bike shifting oddly or dashes in the display where the Riding Mode is normally shown, then you might want to try this and see if it works. I show using a block of wood to stop wheel rotation, but you can also use the parking brake. The initialization will not complete if the rear wheel is allowed to rotate. Engine oil needs to be up to full temperature. After the procedure is complete, it is normal for the wheel to want to rotate backwards if the brake is released and the bike is on the centerstand. This information came directly from Honda, and the procedure is also in the service manual (page 11-64).
That’s what I’m thinking. I did it with 500 miles and now that I’m just over a thousand miles, I will do the procedure again just to see if there’s a change, again. ( it was a good improvement 1st time). I may also make this part of my regular maintenance.I do the procedure every 1000 miles.
I have 5000 miles on mine now I have had that clacking noise on 2 occasions at redlight startup it was almost like 1st gear was not fully engaged.Scary when it happens. also one time I pushed my shutdowned bike from a bad sloped parking spot to a level spot went to restart and nothing would work ,moved the bike ahead and it started right up no problems there after. I think a switch in trans was not made up for startingMy bike had 12K miles on it when I did it. It was starting to shift a bit rough and I had a couple times where it made a clacking sound when starting out from a stop light. After doing the initialization, it shifts MUCH smoother. It made an immediate and very noticeable improvement. Walking speed and reverse also work smoother now. Others who have done it have made similar comments.
Honda does this at the factory when the bikes are new, but I believe it needs to be done again after the clutches are fully bedded in.