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Where do we find that info?

I haven't found anything about kickstand position in the DCT initialize procedure in service manual.

(but I think I recall that, or similar, kickstand info being mentioned before)
That is why the rear wheel can spin. If it was leaning on the kickstand that would not be mentioned.
 

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Read the instructions, it states that the stand must be up.
I must have a different motorcycle because I’ve done both CIP procedures on the side stand. Add to that that Cruiseman, Maxx at TAXX and Fred Harmon all showed videos on either the side stand or center stand with the rear wheel blocked so it can’t spin.

But on an aside, they probably are talking the center stand must be up because if you don’t block the rear wheel from spinning you can’t complete the CIP as it will fail. Someone who doesn’t know to block the RW wouldn’t get the procedure to pass, so center stand must be up!

PS, I’m talking only about the 2018/19 Gl1800 Goldwing.
 

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Not so great for the moment

I tried it today.
Didn't block the rear wheel for the first 3 minutes
Then after 10 minutes nothing happened , so I turned the bike off and on again:
the TOUR mode didn't show. just had the N ----.
Tried again 3 times with the RW blocked by parking brake.
Same.
No way to have the mode indicator normally on.
Gone for a ride : no automatic shifting : have to switch gears using the buttons.

I'm currently letting my bike cool off and will give it a try again in a hour.
 

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I tried it today.
Didn't block the rear wheel for the first 3 minutes
Then after 10 minutes nothing happened , so I turned the bike off and on again:
the TOUR mode didn't show. just had the N ----.
Tried again 3 times with the RW blocked by parking brake.
Same.
No way to have the mode indicator normally on.
Gone for a ride : no automatic shifting : have to switch gears using the buttons.

I'm currently letting my bike cool off and will give it a try again in a hour.
I did the same thing last year. Disconnect negative battery cable for a minute.
When you reconnect battery and turn bike on get ready for it to go through the DCT initialize.
 

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It worked !!!
just tried agin and went to "TOUR" in less than a minute.

Indeed improved the reverse and F nicely (from a barely usable to nice and smooth) : after a frightening first attempt : no movement at all : but that was just the hand brake still on.

Took a very short ride in Paris crowded street, not a huge difference in shifting but it wasn't really an issue before : you can hear the shift but barely fell it, except maybe in sport mode, which is not your favorite choice for city riding.
 

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Let me add, Fred, to the many thanks for starting this thread. I had never HEARD of a clutch reset. With 20K on my 2018 DCT I did the procedure a couple of days ago and it definitely improved the shifting.


A note about my experience: I was following kjsmart's list, rather than the video, and was puzzled at first about the "Engine mill" light. I found no mention of it in the Owner's Manual and wasn't sure what it looked like. After pressing D and turning on the ignition, I expected ONLY the Engine mill light to appear... but all of the normal "ignition on" stuff showed up. After switching off and trying a couple of more times, I decided the relevant light was probably among the ones that lit up, and proceeded with the list. (Release D, press D D N D N, etc.) It worked.


Thanks again, Fred... and kjsmart.
 

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After purchasing my new 19 Trike I was starting to second guess the purchase of the DCT model, shifting is clunky and the gears never seem to be the "right" choice for the given situation. I was thinking this was because of the added weight and wind resistance of the trike conversion messing with the programming Honda designed into it. Well with only 860 miles on it I tried the reset last night and it's like night and day difference! Way smoother and a bunch quieter both up and down through the gears, some selections are so quiet now it truly feels like an automatic. This has removed all doubt now about buying the DCT and I'm looking forward to many, many more miles.... Thanks, Fred!
 

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It worked !!!
just tried agin and went to "TOUR" in less than a minute.

Indeed improved the reverse and F nicely (from a barely usable to nice and smooth) : after a frightening first attempt : no movement at all : but that was just the hand brake still on.

Took a very short ride in Paris crowded street, not a huge difference in shifting but it wasn't really an issue before : you can hear the shift but barely fell it, except maybe in sport mode, which is not your favorite choice for city riding.
I think I saw you today!
 

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Attached is a video that shows how to initialize the clutches on the bikes with DCT Transmissions. This may need to be done periodically as the clutch plates wear, or after initial break in. If you notice the bike shifting oddly or dashes in the display where the Riding Mode is normally shown, then you might want to try this and see if it works. I show using a block of wood to stop wheel rotation, but you can also use the parking brake. The initialization will not complete if the rear wheel is allowed to rotate. Engine oil needs to be up to full temperature. After the procedure is complete, it is normal for the wheel to want to rotate backwards if the brake is released and the bike is on the centerstand. This information came directly from Honda, and the procedure is also in the service manual (page 11-64).


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRkTBTdAAAg&t=70s
Thanks, CIP threw me off Clutch Initialization Procedure DUH!. Started off with checking oil level, it was good. Next tried disconnecting battery for reboot. And what do you know everything seems to be working. Thanks for everyones help.
 

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I do the procedure every 1000 miles.
That’s what I’m thinking. I did it with 500 miles and now that I’m just over a thousand miles, I will do the procedure again just to see if there’s a change, again. ( it was a good improvement 1st time). I may also make this part of my regular maintenance.
 

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Just performed to 4000mi service and changed the oil to Spectrol full synthetic and full synthetic in the final drive. The bike's shifting even smoother than before so I won't be running through this procedure. I told my H-d buddy that it's electric motor smooth right now. It's good to know what the procedure is if we need it but don't assume you need it until you ride the bike.
 

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I performed this procedure with about 2200 miles on the bike. Had no issues prior but decided to go ahead and do it since I did not know for sure if it had been done.
I tried it once and it would never display Tour mode to show it was complete. I tried it a second time and had the same result even after the fans had cycled on and off 2 times. I know the oil was up to temp because I had ridden 40 miles prior to performing the initialization. I checked the oil level and it was in the middle as expected. I tried it a 3rd time and had the same result. I was beginning to worry at this point. I waited 5 minutes and tried it again and it worked as described in the video. Afterward I do notice a slight difference in the shifting patterns but not as much as described above.
I personally will only be performing this procedure when the dashes show up in the display, when I feel a difference in the shifting patterns or every other oil change whichever comes first.
This is however great information for a first time DCT owner (this is my second). I had a 2017 VFR1200X prior to this wing and I never did a initialization procedure in that bike because I felt it shifted fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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My bike had 12K miles on it when I did it. It was starting to shift a bit rough and I had a couple times where it made a clacking sound when starting out from a stop light. After doing the initialization, it shifts MUCH smoother. It made an immediate and very noticeable improvement. Walking speed and reverse also work smoother now. Others who have done it have made similar comments.


Honda does this at the factory when the bikes are new, but I believe it needs to be done again after the clutches are fully bedded in.
I have 5000 miles on mine now I have had that clacking noise on 2 occasions at redlight startup it was almost like 1st gear was not fully engaged.Scary when it happens. also one time I pushed my shutdowned bike from a bad sloped parking spot to a level spot went to restart and nothing would work ,moved the bike ahead and it started right up no problems there after. I think a switch in trans was not made up for starting
 
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