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61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
1. Find 2 hours
2. Warm engine and place bike on centerstand
3. Remove oil fill cap to provide venting for draining oil
4. Remove front downward facing drain plug and allow to drain fully
5. Remove front horizontal angle facing drain plug and allow to drain fully
6. Remove main oil filter and allow to drain fully
7. Clean area around both drain holes and filter with rag
8. Replace drain plugs and torque to spec or by feel if you've done this before
9. Apply thin film of oil to O ring and threads of new oil filter and install
10. Remove oil drain plug from rear of engine and allow to drain fully
11. Loosen bolts holding clutch filter partially on each side allowing oil to drain
12. Carefully remove bolts and clutch cover making sure you don't lose bolts or the filter spring in the oil
13. Use a mechanics pick (shown in picture) to pluck the clutch filter out and allow oil to drain fully - you may be able to get it out with a finger though I could not
14. Clean area around drain hole and filter with rag
15. Replace drain plug and torque or feel to spec
16. Replace O ring in clutch filter cover using thin bead of oil
17. Assemble clutch cover with spring and filter
18. Align clutch filter cover and gingerly push into place and hold with one hand slightly compressing spring
19. Get one of the bolts started in the threads
20. Get the other bolt started in the threads
21. Carefully tighten the bolts alternating from side to side one turn each side until the filter cover is installed - don't attempt to torque these just snug them up
22. Refill with 4.9 quarts of oil - I emptied the 5th quart of Honda HP4S to just above the 100ml line
23. Start bike and check for leaks
24. Go for 30 minute ride to completely warm bike
25. Perform clutch initialization at end of ride - I just do this while seated on the bike no need to block the rear wheel
26. Check oil after waiting 2-3 minutes with bike level - note that oil level reads 1/4 inch higher when on centerstand


DCT Clutch filter at 3,000 miles and pick I used to get it out. Note that I remove the drain plugs one at a time and give them time to drain to manage the mess that changing oil can make particularly with 3 drain bolts and 2 filters at work. My oil level was right at the full mark when checking at the end of the ride.


8 Posts
The service manual suggests you need to place the Wing on the side stand to completely drain the oil. Anyone know how much more oil drains at this angle?

I actually find it easier to replace the transmission filter cap when lying on the right side with the bike tipped away...

146 Posts
That's a nice list. When completing my oil change, I started with the clutch oil filter, regular filter, then the drain plugs. That way I didn't have dripping happening around me.

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Reactions: GWilly

61 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Do you do clutch initialization every oil change?
I've only changed the oil twice at one and three thousand miles and perfomed the clutch initialization both times. It's easy enough to do just memorize the sequence DDNDN and set it to your favorite heavy metal tune so you don't forget it :banghead: I've also done the procedure a few other times when I thought the bike might need it.

Here's another list for the clutch initialization:

1. Turn fully warmed engine off with transmission in neutral
2. While still on the bike depress and hold the "D" button while turning ignition switch ON
3. When information display lights go off release the "D" button
4. Now follow the sequence DDNDN
5. Start the engine watch and listen while the DCT initializes
6. When it finishes you should register "N" and be ready to go

My bike will not shift into D at the end of the sequence. I have to turn the engine off first and restart. Then it works fine 8)

Here's a video description (not me)
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