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@murf Kudos to ya murf you are really helpful and I'm one of I'm sure many hundreds more here on the forum, just a voice to let you know it's APPRECIATED!
 

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Wife (Who does not often ride bitch often and owns a K1600b) suggests my 2018 GW DCT Tour seems to have much rougher stops than all my pre DCT motorcycles. We are both retired and both have been riding motorcycles for over 40 years ...

My guess is that my riding style with 2 up was to minimize any jerking when stopping or accelerating ... smooth is my 2 up goal.

So If I use Auto DCT the last few downshifts seem to be done roughly in the last few seconds of coming to a full stop.

If I use Manual DCT she also says the downshifts seem more rough than all my other non DCT motorcycles.

NOTE: DCT upshifts are smoother than almost every other non DCT motorcycles ... her k1600b with speed shift is close ...

While I used to smooth out my stops (on non DCT bikes) by never dropping down to first gear before I stopped ... pulling in the clutch coasting in 2nd then hitting neutral or 1st only when I was stopped .... DCT does not allow for such tricks to make the wife happy.

For safety I want the option to provide power at low speed and do not want to press the neutral switch on the DCT to smooth out the stop. (COMMENTS FROM ANYONE THAT DOES THIS)

Any other 2 up riders have inputs from their passengers as to the stopping / downshifting smoothness of the DCT vs other non DCT motorcycles.

While it is rare for the wife to ride on the back of my GW ... I still want her to enjoy the smoothness ...

Thanks For Any Suggestions
 

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Wife (Who does not often ride bitch often and owns a K1600b) suggests my 2018 GW DCT Tour seems to have much rougher stops than all my pre DCT motorcycles. We are both retired and both have been riding motorcycles for over 40 years ...



My guess is that my riding style with 2 up was to minimize any jerking when stopping or accelerating ... smooth is my 2 up goal.



So If I use Auto DCT the last few downshifts seem to be done roughly in the last few seconds of coming to a full stop.



If I use Manual DCT she also says the downshifts seem more rough than all my other non DCT motorcycles.



NOTE: DCT upshifts are smoother than almost every other non DCT motorcycles ... her k1600b with speed shift is close ...



While I used to smooth out my stops (on non DCT bikes) by never dropping down to first gear before I stopped ... pulling in the clutch coasting in 2nd then hitting neutral or 1st only when I was stopped .... DCT does not allow for such tricks to make the wife happy.



For safety I want the option to provide power at low speed and do not want to press the neutral switch on the DCT to smooth out the stop. (COMMENTS FROM ANYONE THAT DOES THIS)



Any other 2 up riders have inputs from their passengers as to the stopping / downshifting smoothness of the DCT vs other non DCT motorcycles.



While it is rare for the wife to ride on the back of my GW ... I still want her to enjoy the smoothness ...



Thanks For Any Suggestions


Question: with rolling off the throttle completely (throttle 100% closed) does that disengage both clutches; as a result; permit the bike to coast to stop without any clutch engaged?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I’ve found that smoother starts can be achieved by slightly holding a brake, front or rear, when advancing the throttle. When the clutch has begun to engage and the slack is out of the drivetrain, release the break. This is particularly helpful in tight spaces or when turning from a stop. It takes a little practice, but it eliminates some of the touchy throttle response.
 

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Observation :

DCT hangs up from time to time in a gear and requires a manual shift or extended interval to clear.

Cause :

I found myself "blipping" the throttle as thought the transmission was a manual anticipating the DCT shift. This habit was happening especially while aggressively riding in sport mode.

Corrective action:

Simply roll the throttle on and off in a smooth manner and the DCT shifts are as smooth as glass in all modes!
 

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Observations:

1. To release cruise control you can just lightly touch the upshift button. It will not shift gears but the slightest touch will release cruise.

2. You can start engine by holding brake and pushing and holding the starter. What I discovered is that you do not have to be squeezing the brake. You just have to slightly move the brake lever and hold while pushing the starter. This is easier than squeezing.

This also applies to putting bike in walking mode. You do not have to squeeze the brake hard. Just a slight lever movement while pushing the button to activate walking mode. An advantage is that this isolates your hand from that hard kick of the transmission slamming into walking mode.

3. If you forget to release the parking brake and go from stopped to a sharp or u-turn you will be sorry. It will screw up your turn something bad, maybe even take you down. Think doing u-turn while moving slow and braking hard. I discovered this by forgetting to release the PB and doing a maneuver that I had refined only to find myself having to put a foot down to keep the bike up.Try it. Or not.

4. Sometimes I have to squeeze the brake hard trying to activate the Hill Start feature. If Hill Start doesn't come on with reasonable pressure, release the brake and let the bike move just a little (literally inches) and squeeze brake while it is moving. This usually does the trick
 

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Using DCT walking mode makes turning a GW around in my garage very easy and fun. I have a two car garage and an extra eight feet on the side but there is storage cabinets and miscellaneous garage stuff so it is pretty tight with one car in the garage. It is so easy to go from forward to reverse back and forth quickly and easily. It is slow enough to be easy to handle but fast enough to get the job done quickly. If you have enough room to spin the bike around on a dolly, you probably have enough room to just use the walking mode for a quick, easy and safe 180. At least it works for me with one car in the garage. I park the bike in extra space and put the second car in the garage after I get the bike in position. May be more difficult if you park the bike in front of the car instead of to the side, but the DCT does offer a lot of mobility.
 

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Taking off after starting the bike

I've found that when the DCT is cold it will start up with a high idle. It is my preference to let the bike warm up and let the idle settle before taking off. The low speed engagement of the clutch adjusts to the idle speed. If I need to take off before the idle settles, I make sure I'm pointed straight first with manual or walking mode. Of course you can use rain mode for takeoffs but getting into a routine for every startup and take off is critical just as it was when we all learned with a manual clutch. The DCT is a different handling animal.
 

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Hi SRoss, My wife and I are former MSF instructors and we have a pair of DCT Tours in Hawkseye Blue. We read Mattc2018's tips and we found combining tips 9, 12, and 13 work best. I also suggest tip 14 grip puppies help too. Thanks Matt!

For the offset cone weave I find it doesn't make much difference whether I use manual shifting or auto because even in manual the bike downshifts if you get too slow. I prefer to use second gear at idle speed and DO NOT slip the clutch on my 2002 Wing for the cone weaves - that sets the speed high enough that I smoothly dance through the cones. My wife uses the friction zone in second on her 2002 to go slower than I do and that sounds similar to your technique. We both found the DCT requires us to maintain at least a little throttle - if we close the throttle we can feel the clutch release as the speed drops see TIP 12. It is very hard for both of us to maintain that tiny bit of throttle while we are turning the handlebars nearly lock to lock - that is where tip 9 comes in and drag the rear brake a little to manage your speed while keeping a little throttle on. Yes we both agree the DCT is more challenging to get through the cone weave than a manual transmission but we are up to the challenge and I bet you are too. In addition to the 15x3 offset I have done 15x4 and 15x5 successfully with the DCT after 1 hour of practice.

As for the 90 degree corner turns and the figure 8 in a box, those are actually pretty easy with the DCT. For the corner you get the bike moving and then tips 9 and 12 work - minimal throttle ALL THE WAY AROUND the turn. No closing the throttle and coasting. Beware that left turns tend to force you to open the throttle and right turns tend to force you to close the throttle. Do your best to keep the throttle in the same position while turning your handlebars. The same is true for the figure 8, you must have at least a little throttle on ALL THE WAY AROUND or you will mess yourself up. If you run wide try turning your head earlier/more. The hardest part for both of us is not twisting the throttle while turning the handlebars - I find leaning forward and keeping my elbows bent at least 90 degrees helps a lot. I've thought about adding a little friction to the throttle to keep it steadier because my old Wing had friction from the cables and this new one does not.

You can see the effect of turning the handlebars by putting the bike on the centerstand, sit on the bike, start it and leave it in neutral, raise the rpm to 1500 with your throttle and hold it there while you turn the handlebars lock to lock. Once you can do that several times without revving too much you will find tip 9 trailing rear brake and head turn is all you need to glide through any of the MSF skills.
 

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Just read this entire thread and want to thank all for their contributions. I have about 1,000 miles on my Standard DCT and picked up a few good tips. I did want to make a couple comments:

1) There were a couple comments about the 2018 DCT not handling well. I rode Harleys for years and the past 5 years on an F6B. My 2018 is the best handling bike by far of them all. Maneuvering at Low speed I find the Bike to be very stable with very little tendency to fall off to one side or the other. I think the key is to be relaxed, get used to applying small steering & throttle inputs and just let the Bike do it's thing. If you are feeling tense or uncertain this will work against you. I find not many folks that I ride with actually go to a parking lot and practice low speed maneuvering. If you are feeling uncertain on the 2018, I think a good bit of parking lot practice would dramatically improve your confidence in this Bikes handling.

2) Quite a few comments regarding lunging as the Bike downshifts coming to a stop. One of the things I like about the DCT is the harder you brake, the faster it downshifts ahead of you to provide good engine braking and minimize brake wear. So when I'm braking hard, I find this to be a good thing. When riding 2-up and coming to a stop I simply start to slow a little earlier and more gradually (light braking) and the Bike responds by downshifting in a more gradual and polite fashion.

3) In Automatic Mode the Bike is in part trying to read your intentions by observing your Throttle and Brake inputs. Full Throttle & No Braking and the Bike is going to shift up slowly to deliver Power / Acceleration. Light Throttle & No Braking and the Bike will shift up faster to maximize fuel economy. Idle Throttle & Heavy Braking and the Bike is going to downshift aggressively to provide good Engine Braking. Light Throttle & Light Braking and the Bike will downshift gradually and smoothly. Another way to look at it: If you start slowing 500 feet from where you intend to stop as opposed to 250 feet, your bike will have twice the distance and additional time to shift down through the gears smoothly without Lunging.
 

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For me heavy STOP and GO traffic situations are most easily handled using the MANUAL option on the DCT. Otherwise I am in the AUTO option


As far as MODES I use TOUR and SPORT exclusively. I find RAIN and ECO--- TOO SLOW
 

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By wire Throttle Control. I control the throttle by touching it like I was feeling a feather I ride my HD Street Glide the same way basically ride with the tips of my fingers. In order to do this you cannot use the handle bars to hold onto the bike you need a backrest to stabilize body position. On a sport bike you lock legs onto the tank with the forward leaning position but you cannot lock in on a cruiser. Counter steering and throttle control can be done effortlessly once you stop gripping the bars and the only way I have found to achieve this on a cruiser is to install a back rest. The video Twist Of The Rist help me to improve my riding skills. I must have watched it 50 times over the years. Have fun riding I love my Goldwing DCT Red,
 

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I have always coasted to stops very smooth and effortlessly. My DCT downshifts right before stopping and has me reaching for the ground I thought surely there is a way to coast but I haven't found one. Does anyone know how to coast on this bike.
 
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