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Just venting a little here:
1. Made a great trade in August on an 06 GW w/Nav/Comfort/Prem. Audio.
Traded an 01 Ultra w/47,000 on the clock. Dealer sold me the Wing for $18,000 and gave me $12,000 for my HD. Also told me he'd give me 20 percent off on accessories.
Later told me he couldn't do 20pct off on all accessories.

2. Later ordered ring of fire and rotor covers w/a black switch that was to mount on the brake master cylinder. Decided to let the dealer install - told me over the phone about 1 hr labor ($64). Dropped the bike off-waited on it while browsing the show room. When finished and I looked at the bike, a chrome switch was installed on the wrong handlebar and the wiring was run on the outside of the handlebar instead of under the cover, and a couple other minor problems. My bill was $92 as they charged 1/2hr labor for the switch install. Paid-got out of there-rode home and redid the job myself to correct it and found a tab had been broken off the fairing trim! Dealer did replace it under warranty.

3. Now have 2000 miles on bike and notice the rear tire seemed to be wearing flat! Checked the air and found 29#'s in the rear and 21#'s in the front. What happened to the dealer prep on a new bike. I can't believe the tires were ever checked and shame on me for not doing it!

It was a great deal but poor followup by both the dealer and me!!!!!!!!
 
G

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After 2,000 miles the air pressure could have changed!
I check my air pressure before every ride.
I run 40 in the front, 42 in the rear.
 

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Not preaching to the band but.

Never depend on a dealer for tire pressure check and fluid levels. WE as motorcycle riders have a obligation to ourself and other riders.

Should do a "T CLOCK" inspection before each ride.
http://www.micapeak.com/info/T-CLOCK.html
http://www.subasekb.navy.mil/MOTORCYCLE SAFETY/TCLOCKInspectionForm1.pdf

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation created the T-CLOCK mnemonic as a memory and organization ad for a pre-ride safety check of a typical motorcycle. Each letter represent a particular inspection category, as follows:

* T - Tires & Wheels
* C - Controls
* L - Lights & Electrics
* O - Oil
* C - Chassis
* K - Kickstand

TIRES AND WHEELS
Tires: Pressure correct (cold), tread condition. No cuts, bulges, punctures of foreign objects.
Wheels: Spokes tight and intact; rims true; no free play when flexed; bearing seals intact; spin freely.
Brakes: Firm feel; sufficient pad depth, no leaks or links in hoses or cables.

CONTROLS
Levers: Pivot bolt and nut; action and position correct; pivots lubed.
Cables: Ends and shafts lubed; no fraying or kinks; no binding when handlebar turned; proper adjustment.
Hoses: Check for damage or leaks, proper routing.
Throttle: Snaps closed freely when released; no excess play.

LIGHTS
Brake and Tailight(s): All filaments work; both levers actuate brake light.
Headlight: All filaments work; properly aimed; no damage.
Lenses: Clean; no condensation; tight.
Reflectors: Clean; intact.
Battery: Fluid level; terminals clean and tight; held down securely; vent tube not kinked or mis-routed.
Wiring: Check for pinching or fraying; properly routed; no corrosion.

OIL AND FLUIDS
Levels: Brake fluid, oil, final drive, transmission, coolant, fuel.
Leaks: Check all systems for leaks.
Condition: Check color of brake fluid & coolant.

CHASSIS
Frame: Paint lifting or peeling may indicate cracking.
Steering head & swingarm bearings: Lift wheels off floor, grab lower fork legs and pull and push to feel for play; repeat at rear. Turn fork to feel for detents in bearings.
Suspension: Smooth movement; proper adjustment; no leaks.
Chain or belt: Tension; lube, look for wear.
Fasteners: Look for missing or loose threaded fasteners, clips, pins.

KICKSTAND
Sidestand: Retracts firmly; no bending or damage; cut-out switch operates; springintact.
Centerstand: Retracts firmly, no damage.
 
G

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Here we go again, a story of a incompetent wrench at a dealership that don't now what their doing.

First... I'll agree 90% with HondaRider2005, there is a abligation here to make sure the scoot your riding in ready, even though it just came from the dealer.

I just wrote this in another post.
I don't care if the dealer that just did repairs and you found something they did wrong, I would return your 1800 now, even if they are 150 miles away.
Make sure when you return and complain, talk to someone who will listen, preferably someone in ownership.
Don't talk smart and go back with a attitude, both party's don't need that.

We have to make these dealerships aware of poor workmanship.

There's so many storys out there were the rider corrected what some dealer screwed-up, and on top of that, paid for the screw-up.

As far as a dealer promising a 20% discount, next time get it in writting.
To many people involved in buying anything today, sales, service, parts dept.etc. that a word of mouth doesn't go far unless in writing.

Good Luck
 

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Legend in His Own Mind
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4,671 Posts
HondaRider2oo5 said:
Not preaching to the band but.

Never depend on a dealer for tire pressure check and fluid levels. WE as motorcycle riders have a obligation to ourself and other riders.

Should do a "T CLOCK" inspection before each ride.
http://www.micapeak.com/info/T-CLOCK.html
http://www.subasekb.navy.mil/MOTORCYCLE SAFETY/TCLOCKInspectionForm1.pdf

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation created the T-CLOCK mnemonic as a memory and organization ad for a pre-ride safety check of a typical motorcycle. Each letter represent a particular inspection category, as follows:

* T - Tires & Wheels
* C - Controls
* L - Lights & Electrics
* O - Oil
* C - Chassis
* K - Kickstand

TIRES AND WHEELS
Tires: Pressure correct (cold), tread condition. No cuts, bulges, punctures of foreign objects.
Wheels: Spokes tight and intact; rims true; no free play when flexed; bearing seals intact; spin freely.
Brakes: Firm feel; sufficient pad depth, no leaks or links in hoses or cables.

CONTROLS
Levers: Pivot bolt and nut; action and position correct; pivots lubed.
Cables: Ends and shafts lubed; no fraying or kinks; no binding when handlebar turned; proper adjustment.
Hoses: Check for damage or leaks, proper routing.
Throttle: Snaps closed freely when released; no excess play.

LIGHTS
Brake and Tailight(s): All filaments work; both levers actuate brake light.
Headlight: All filaments work; properly aimed; no damage.
Lenses: Clean; no condensation; tight.
Reflectors: Clean; intact.
Battery: Fluid level; terminals clean and tight; held down securely; vent tube not kinked or mis-routed.
Wiring: Check for pinching or fraying; properly routed; no corrosion.

OIL AND FLUIDS
Levels: Brake fluid, oil, final drive, transmission, coolant, fuel.
Leaks: Check all systems for leaks.
Condition: Check color of brake fluid & coolant.

CHASSIS
Frame: Paint lifting or peeling may indicate cracking.
Steering head & swingarm bearings: Lift wheels off floor, grab lower fork legs and pull and push to feel for play; repeat at rear. Turn fork to feel for detents in bearings.
Suspension: Smooth movement; proper adjustment; no leaks.
Chain or belt: Tension; lube, look for wear.
Fasteners: Look for missing or loose threaded fasteners, clips, pins.

KICKSTAND
Sidestand: Retracts firmly; no bending or damage; cut-out switch operates; springintact.
Centerstand: Retracts firmly, no damage.
OOOOwwwww, somebodies got an MSF endorsement. :p
 

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When I picked up my FJR from the dealer; I checked the tire pressure first thing. 68#'s front and rear. I can't figure out how that mech did that.
 

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I guess I'm bad. :oops: T CLOCK? That looks like half the morning wasted when I could be riding. I generally get on the thing and go. :D If I can't remember when I last checked the air in the tires, I might do that real quick before I head out. It doesn't burn a drop of oil, so I know it's where I filled it to when I changed it last. The clutch and brake fluid can't go anywhere. I can see the lights on the inside of the garage when I start up, and if one is burned out I'm not going to cancel a ride over it anyhow. The kickstand works because the bike wan't laying on it's side when I last looked.
 

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It is not fair to blaim low air pressure on a dealer after 2000 miles.
 

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laen said:
It is not fair to blaim low air pressure on a dealer after 2000 miles.
+1 Check tire psi at least every week (and after a dealer visit). I've seldom had a car or bike dealer inflate tires to my liking. I think every tire tech has his own ideas about correct psi.
 

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Check my tire pressure before every ride, always! Preform other inspections on Saturday mornings, more than once found something not quite right. Better safe than sorry.
 
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