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2018 Goldwing Tour DCT
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For those with 2018+ Wings who use a headset, this post is to help:
1) those of us who choose blue tooth comms to understand what the capabilities and limitations of each configuration option are and
2) everyone (wired or bluetooth) to know of a best practice for connecting your phone to your headset.
This isn't a debate about whether blue tooth or wired is best nor is it a debate about what headset is best.

Both Sena and Cardo reps said it is best to only use one path at a time between the phone and the headset.

For Folks with bluetooth headsets - there are three (3) paths from your phone to your headset
a) phone to bike via wired (USB) then bike to headset, b) phone to bike via wireless (BT) then bike to headset, and c) phone directly to headset wireless (BT)

For folks with wired headsets - there are two (2) paths from your phone to your headset
a) phone to bike via wired (USB) then bike to headset via J&M adapter, b) phone to bike via wireless (BT) then bike to to headset via J&M adapter

Per the Sena and Cardo reps, even folks with wired headsets should turn off the phone to bike bluetooth connection (if they have it) when plugging the phone into the USB on the bike.

As discussed in many other threads, figuring out your start up /connection sequence for the headset, bike, and phone is key for folks using bluetooth headsets

Assumption: Headset(s) is(are) connected with the bike (wireless or wired)

Help decision making easier:

Wireless Headset (Blue Tooth)

For folks running wireless there are two key choices that need to be made

Choice 1 - either connect your phone to bike (USB or BT) or connect your phone to headset (BT)

then, if choosing to connect your phone to the bike

Choice 2 – either connect phone to bike via USB or connect your phone to the bike via BT.

If choosing USB, the best practice is, on your phone, to turn off BT pairing with the bike

Make those choices based on the capabilities you need/want. The key capabilities can be found in the small tables on the lower left of each configuration

Wired Headset
For folks running wired there is one key choice that needs to be made

Choice 1 – either connect phone to bike via USB or connect your phone to the bike via BT.

If choosing USB, the best practice is, on your phone, to turn off BT pairing with the bike

Make that choice based on the capabilities you need/want.



Example 1:
You are using a wireless headset. Your phone will be mounted on the handlebars. You want to use the CoPilot app on your phone for route navigation. CoPilot voice commands will not route through the bike to the headset. You would like to be able to receive phone calls. You don’t care about getting text messages. You don’t care about hands free voice commands.

Choice 1: Pair your headset to your phone. On your phone disable the Bluetooth connection with the bike

Choice 2: Not Applicable

Example 2:
You are using a wireless headset. Your phone will be in the center pocket or mounted on handlebars. You want to play music or a pod cast on your phone. You would like to be able to receive phone calls. You don’t care about getting text messages. You don’t care about hands free voice commands.

Choice 1: Connect your headset to the bike.

Choice 2: Pair your phone to the bike via Bluetooth. On your phone disable the Bluetooth connection with the headset

Example 3:
You are using a wireless headset. You want to use Rever, In Route, or Scenic for route navigation. You want to be able to interact with Rever, In Route, or Scenic to modify the route if needed. You would like hands free voice commands. You would like to be able to receive phone calls and listen to and respond to texts messages

Choice 1: Connect your headset to the bike.

Choice 2: Connect your phone to the bike via USB. Your phone will be in the center pocket. On your phone disable the Bluetooth connection with the bike and the headset.

Note: For Example 3, you can leave the Bluetooth connection between the bike and phone enabled but if there is a small chance the BT pairing will not be fully shut off automatically by the phone or bike and cause. If that happens, conflicts and failures may occur.

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I thought headset to headset is always Mesh as the priority and secondary BT if wanted.
Bike to Headset #1 is BT as shown
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought headset to headset is always Mesh as the priority and secondary BT if wanted.
Bike to Headset #1 is BT as shown
Wireless Intercom between headsets - either bluetooth intercom (shown in blue between headsets) or Mesh intercom (shown in green) are completely independant of the bike and completely separate from and independent of the bike / phone / headset Bluetooth connections

For wireless intercom, if you are running Mesh, it will disable all bluetooth intercom capability on the headset. It is either Mesh intercom or Bluetooth intercom, not both at the same time in a priority order.

Wired intercom is a whole different thing ran by the J&M Headset Adapter between the two headsets - but the intercom is still independent of the bike/phone/headset Bluetooth connections and independent of the bike. The wired headsets are not Mesh capable from my understanding.
 

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Damn if I have to follow an Indiana Jones treasure map, I'm good with talking to my passenger at stops 😎

The absolute last thing I would ever put on a bike is a communication device. I always thought the point of the bike was not to have someone chirping in your ear. 🤗 Pre chosen tunes excluded
 

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Damn if I have to follow an Indiana Jones treasure map, I'm good with talking to my passenger at stops 😎

The absolute last thing I would ever put on a bike is a communication device. I always thought the point of the bike was not to have someone chirping in your ear. 🤗 Pre chosen tunes excluded
Goldwings have been equipped with intercoms for about 35 years. Apparently Honda concluded it beat yelling at your passenger.
 

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I've been searching for Bluetooth helmet speakers. A set where I can have an external battery pack that can be swapped. Don't want the microphone.

I have a Cardo intercom set that could be used, but the battery charge would be used up on two hours of listening to music. With the Concours 14, I could charge the first module after swapping to the second. They couldn't recharge fast enough and I'd be without tunes and nav guidance before I completed the ride.
 

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Keep it simple. Best headset today is the Cardo Packtalk. Pair the Cardo to the bike, pair the phone to the bike. That’s it. When you turn on the bike, it will connect to both. For Apple CarPlay, plug in the iPhone and it will start CarPlay and auto disable the phone Bluetooth connection. For intercom to others, use mesh to connect. This all works very well. I get about 12-15 hrs of battery life out of my Cardo.
 

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Keep it simple. Best headset today is the Cardo Packtalk. Pair the Cardo to the bike, pair the phone to the bike. That’s it. When you turn on the bike, it will connect to both. For Apple CarPlay, plug in the iPhone and it will start CarPlay and auto disable the phone Bluetooth connection. For intercom to others, use mesh to connect. This all works very well. I get about 12-15 hrs of battery life out of my Cardo.
I have the exact same results with my Packtalk Bold. Rarely I see that the headsets did not connect to the bike so I just go into the menu and press the connect button and wa la we are good to go. This is a rare event as most times I turn on the headsets and let them connect to each other then start the bike. Once the bike is started the phone connects and the headsets do as well. I usually do not use CarPlay but that is a seamless hook up as well when I want it.
 

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I've been searching for Bluetooth helmet speakers. A set where I can have an external battery pack that can be swapped. Don't want the microphone.

I have a Cardo intercom set that could be used, but the battery charge would be used up on two hours of listening to music. With the Concours 14, I could charge the first module after swapping to the second. They couldn't recharge fast enough and I'd be without tunes and nav guidance before I completed the ride.
With my Sena 20S Evo, I get around 12 hours of listening to music...9 hours of listening to music and talking with another rider. I carry a small battery brick and can plug in and charge on the fly if needed.
 

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Damn if I have to follow an Indiana Jones treasure map, I'm good with talking to my passenger at stops 😎

......
I completely agree and just one of the many reasons I am not interested in a BT headset. I have my 2018 set up in a manner that I do not have to deal with needing a magic decoder ring or following some treasure map to make it all work. I put an after market intercom/CB (J&M) on it and used a USB BT to wired sound device along with a very simple 3-way stereo sound mixer with microphone hook-up for Zumo into the intercom/CB. Very little to go wrong, no batteries to die or try to keep charged and no games with trying to get the magic pairing order down every time I turn on the bike. The best solution ever would be to put electronics back on the bike to be an Intercom and device interface controller. Then everything pairs to the bike and sound is managed for priority on the bike and it never changes unless you change it or don't turn something on. This "many to many to many" desire for a BT headset to be the "be all, do all, magic bullet" solution for everything under the sun will never ever work the way everyone wants it to. It can only work the way the manufacturer wants it to work - thus, the "treasure map" and performance of "the hocky pocky" before every ride.
 

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I completely agree and just one of the many reasons I am not interested in a BT headset. I have my 2018 set up in a manner that I do not have to deal with needing a magic decoder ring or following some treasure map to make it all work. I put an after market intercom/CB (J&M) on it and used a USB BT to wired sound device along with a very simple 3-way stereo sound mixer with microphone hook-up for Zumo into the intercom/CB. Very little to go wrong, no batteries to die or try to keep charged and no games with trying to get the magic pairing order down every time I turn on the bike. The best solution ever would be to put electronics back on the bike to be an Intercom and device interface controller. Then everything pairs to the bike and sound is managed for priority on the bike and it never changes unless you change it or don't turn something on. This "many to many to many" desire for a BT headset to be the "be all, do all, magic bullet" solution for everything under the sun will never ever work the way everyone wants it to. It can only work the way the manufacturer wants it to work - thus, the "treasure map" and performance of "the hocky pocky" before every ride.
Your system sounds as complicated as what you're
complaining about..LOL..seriously though the BT headsets with this bike are very simple to pair and use with this bike. I've had not one issue and I would never go back to obsolete cords again.
 

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Your system sounds as complicated as what you're
complaining about..LOL..seriously though the BT headsets with this bike are very simple to pair and use with this bike. I've had not one issue and I would never go back to obsolete cords again.
Not even...... I turn on the bike and it all works, I only need to plug in my helmet to either my 2010 or 2018 and all works. No turn this on, then turn that on then re-pair this, re-pair that.... oops, wrong order - forgot the "treasure map" every time I ride. I ride with someone else with a 2018, has a BT headset, Honda CB, and uses Apple Auto (or whatever they call it) and he does "the hockie pockie" making it all work properly every time he gets on to ride and never turns the bike off for short stops to avoid doing "the hockie pockie" again when we take off again. He also complains about the crap he has to do every time to make it all work properly. Oh yea..... Just a few weeks ago, he ended up going through 3 headsets on a ride due to dead batteries in the headset. And my setup just works because I have turned on the bike.
 

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Not even...... I turn on the bike and it all works, I only need to plug in my helmet to either my 2010 or 2018 and all works. No turn this on, then turn that on then re-pair this, re-pair that.... oops, wrong order - forgot the "treasure map" every time I ride. I ride with someone else with a 2018, has a BT headset, Honda CB, and uses Apple Auto (or whatever they call it) and he does "the hockie pockie" making it all work properly every time he gets on to ride and never turns the bike off for short stops to avoid doing "the hockie pockie" again when we take off again. He also complains about the crap he has to do every time to make it all work properly. Oh yea..... Just a few weeks ago, he ended up going through 3 headsets on a ride due to dead batteries in the headset. And my setup just works because I have turned on the bike.
Glad you like your setup and I was just kidding you a bit....but honestly, I've never had a single issue with my Sena 20S Evo...all I do is turn on the bike and turn on the headset..it just works everytime...have ridden a few thousand miles in the rain and no issue. I charge the battery after every ride before I put my helmet away so its always got a fully charged battery for my next ride. I get 12 hours of battery just listening to music..9 hours listening to music and talking with another rider. I carry a battery brick on road trips and can recharge on the fly if ever needed and I need the battery brick for my phone too...music quialty sounds as good as my old corded Ed Sets did with my old wing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've been searching for Bluetooth helmet speakers. A set where I can have an external battery pack that can be swapped. Don't want the microphone.

I have a Cardo intercom set that could be used, but the battery charge would be used up on two hours of listening to music. With the Concours 14, I could charge the first module after swapping to the second. They couldn't recharge fast enough and I'd be without tunes and nav guidance before I completed the ride.
The battery on my headsets last 12+ hours without needing a recharge.

I use my battery tender, an SAE to USB adapter, and the charge cable to charge the headsets at food or or other extended stops. As a result, I never run out of juice on a ride no matter how long it is.

Some folks carry an extra control unit, the part that plugs in, not the mount. They put one unit in the trunk charging and swap out when the one on the headset gets low.

No idea about headsets that don't come with mics. Most headset mics plug into the control unit so you could just leave the mic off
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
For Apple CarPlay, plug in the iPhone and it will start CarPlay and auto disable the phone Bluetooth connection.
[/QUOTE
I've found that ACP does NOT disable the bluetooth connection between the bike and phone on my Iphone X

Having tried both Cardo and Sena - I prefer Sena because of Mesh 2.0, which Cardo does not have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have the exact same results with my Packtalk Bold. Rarely I see that the headsets did not connect to the bike so I just go into the menu and press the connect button and wa la we are good to go. This is a rare event as most times I turn on the headsets and let them connect to each other then start the bike. Once the bike is started the phone connects and the headsets do as well. I usually do not use CarPlay but that is a seamless hook up as well when I want it.
Same with my Sena's, rarely have a problem to connect the headset or phone to the bike via bluetooth and simple and quick to get it connected when it happens.

Point of my post was to enable understanding and decision making because
1) each configuration brings different capabilities and limitations (helps folks choose what they need)
2) having more than one data path between the phone and headset can cause conflicts (per both Cardo and Sena) so it is a best practice to only chose one and shut the others paths off
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
With my Sena 20S Evo, I get around 12 hours of listening to music...9 hours of listening to music and talking with another rider. I carry a small battery brick and can plug in and charge on the fly if needed.
I have SLR-2s which are a 20S but built into the helmet... I've been getting about 12 hours with listen and talk. Instead of a brick, I use a SAE to USB-A converter that plugs into the battery tender and headset cord to recharge during longer breaks (meals, etc)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I completely agree and just one of the many reasons I am not interested in a BT headset. I have my 2018 set up in a manner that I do not have to deal with needing a magic decoder ring or following some treasure map to make it all work. I put an after market intercom/CB (J&M) on it and used a USB BT to wired sound device along with a very simple 3-way stereo sound mixer with microphone hook-up for Zumo into the intercom/CB. Very little to go wrong, no batteries to die or try to keep charged and no games with trying to get the magic pairing order down every time I turn on the bike. The best solution ever would be to put electronics back on the bike to be an Intercom and device interface controller. Then everything pairs to the bike and sound is managed for priority on the bike and it never changes unless you change it or don't turn something on. This "many to many to many" desire for a BT headset to be the "be all, do all, magic bullet" solution for everything under the sun will never ever work the way everyone wants it to. It can only work the way the manufacturer wants it to work - thus, the "treasure map" and performance of "the hocky pocky" before every ride.
Glad you are happy with your set up and choices. My bluetooth set up connects pretty seamlessly and works for me.
 
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