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Discussion Starter #1
Disconnected my battery to add a Battery Doc and a Widder connector to the terminals. Reconnected the battery with no problem.

Now, my fob turns itself off. Yes, actually turns itself off. I get the 3 flashes and push the left saddlebag button...nothing. Then I turn the ignition knob and the dash lights up, then I hit the saddlebag button again and it opens. Other times I turn the key on, put it down on the seat and then push the left saddlebag button and it doesn't work. Then I push the key and expect ONE flash, but I get 3!!! So somehow or other, the fob turned itself off!!!!

This has happened several times this a.m. when I was out in the garage trying to figure what happened and I am stumped. The little key symbol on the dash is not blinking, so it seems the fob does NOT need a new battery.

Is there some kind of procedure one has to go thru after reconnecting the battery? I have since disconnected the Battery Doc and Widder, but the problem persists. There was one time when I left the bike run to get the clock synced back up and the fob problem persisted even after that.

This problem happened BEFORE I attempted to add a second fob this morning, which failed. I thought I had it solved when I attempted the second fob, but alas, I did not.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd put a new battery in the FOB, I suspect that will fix it. The battery voltage is probably dropping too low and the FOB shuts off.
Unfortunately, that wasn't it. Unless the fobs don't like Energizer lithium batteries. That is all Walgreens had, of course. $4 a piece, meh.

I really think it is the Battery Doc/Widder connection attached to the battery terminals. Even after I shined up the connections (both sides), the funny stuff was still happening.

Oh, and a new twist...the bike alerted me that the original fob, with a brand new lithium battery, has a low battery. WTH??

I'm going to leave it alone for a few days and see. If nothing else, I may just remove the Doc and Widder connections again.

On the bright side, I used your paperclip method and got the 2d fob programmed and both fobs work. Until they turn themselves off, or whatever happens to them.
 

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Oh, and a new twist...the bike alerted me that the original fob, with a brand new lithium battery, has a low battery. WTH??.

My guess is you got a bad or old set of batteries at Walgreens. I try another brand from a different source.
 

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Too late now, but anyone that disconnects the battery for any reason, you are safer using some kind of battery backup. Hook another battery across the leads before disconnecting the main battery. There are horror stories all over about what happens to these new cars many times when battery power is lost, and I suspect the goldwing with the canbus system suffers similar. Wife worked for interstate batteries for several years, and I got a lot of info on the subject that was not good to put it in mild terms.
 

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I've unhooked the battery on my bike several times and reconnected it and it had no negative effects on any of the bikes electrical systems.
I would agree. Many procedures on the bike require it to be de-energized, and I would imagine that the bike is configured to recover from a loss of power without any special intervention (aside from re-configuring the software settings).
 

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Too late now, but anyone that disconnects the battery for any reason, you are safer using some kind of battery backup. Hook another battery across the leads before disconnecting the main battery. There are horror stories all over about what happens to these new cars many times when battery power is lost, and I suspect the goldwing with the canbus system suffers similar. Wife worked for interstate batteries for several years, and I got a lot of info on the subject that was not good to put it in mild terms.
I didn't see anything on the Interstate battery website saying to use a battery backup before disconnecting a vehicles battery. Were problems arise is when people do not follow the guidelines for battery removal. Like Fred, I have removed the battery several times without ill effects from the bike and I have removed/replaced batteries from vehicles with CanBus with no ill effects. No battery backups were used nor were they recommended as part of the battery removal procedure.

Follow the owner's manual and you shouldn't have any problems removing/replacing the battery on a 2018 wing.

Battery Removal:

Make sure the ignition switch is turned to OFF.
After turning the ignition switch to OFF, wait more than 60 seconds and then remove the negative cable of the battery. Failure to do this may cause the electrical system not to function correctly.

:doorag:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Follow the owner's manual and you shouldn't have any problems removing/replacing the battery on a 2018 wing.
While I did not RTFM prior to removing the neg cable, the bike was off and more the 60 seconds had passed.

If I do end up with some electrical gremlins, the first thing I'm going to do is remove the Battery Doc and Widder connections at the battery.
 

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I will take a leap of faith here and "assume" that the fobs are not left in the cold garage. If I error in that, try again with warm fobs.

If all has failed so far, make sure the ignition is off. Wait several minutes as Murphy stated and remove the negative battery terminal. Wait again for 10 to 15 minutes and reconnect. Now see if the bike has corrected its errant data (if the data is errant). Nest step, warranty request.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will take a leap of faith here and "assume" that the fobs are not left in the cold garage. If I error in that, try again with warm fobs.
No. I live in Fla.

Things "seem" to be working fine. We'll see.
 
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While I did not RTFM prior to removing the neg cable, the bike was off and more the 60 seconds had passed.

If I do end up with some electrical gremlins, the first thing I'm going to do is remove the Battery Doc and Widder connections at the battery.
I have the Battery Doc and the Widder connection on my battery since day one with my bike....I doubt that is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have the Battery Doc and the Widder connection on my battery since day one with my bike....I doubt that is the problem.
I doubt it is the problem, too. However, other than disconnecting/reconnecting the battery for those connections, nothing else happened prior to the fob behaving badly.
 

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The electronics on the bike can in no way cause the key FOB to turn itself off. Your key FOB most likely has a bad battery in it. I'd bet money that all your problems will go away once you replace the battery in your FOB with a new one. Go get a good quality battery from a reliable source and try again.
 

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By the way, another thing you might want to check are the battery contacts inside your key FOB. Since you have already taken it apart once to replace the battery, it's possible that that battery isn't making good contact and is causing the FOB to shut off when the battery looses contact. I would inspect and clean the contacts and make sure they are engaging the battery properly.


Also, great care has to be used when installing these small coin cell batteries because it can be very easy to short the edges of the battery together where the positive and negative plates join. If the battery contacts are shorted even for just an instant, the battery will be ruined and its voltage will show a significant drop. A new battery should read 3.2 volts. Anything less will be a problem.
 

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My BMW fob started acting up on me on a road trip once. It only worked intermittently. I stopped by a store to seek a replacement. The lady at the counter took out a tester and tested battery. It read solidly in the green, like it was brand new. Frustrated, I bought a new one anyway and went outside and changed the battery. Problem gone and never came back. Lesson for me was just because the meter says good means nothing. Never mind an explanation, I just added it to my list of esoteric knowledge.
 

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When your TV remote gets finicky you probably just change the batteries. Do the same with your Wing FOB
 

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My BMW fob started acting up on me on a road trip once. It only worked intermittently. I stopped by a store to seek a replacement. The lady at the counter took out a tester and tested battery. It read solidly in the green, like it was brand new. Frustrated, I bought a new one anyway and went outside and changed the battery. Problem gone and never came back. Lesson for me was just because the meter says good means nothing. Never mind an explanation, I just added it to my list of esoteric knowledge.
An old rule that always applies to batteries of any kind is:

If a battery tests bad, it is bad. If it tests good, it could still be bad.

A battery tester just cannot simulate all real world situations.
 
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