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Take a look at the pic and see if there’s anything obviously wrong. I mounted it using Velcro so that I can pull it up for servicing and adding circuits. My Hannigan GTL will be run through this.

Thanks, Robert.
 

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My only comment would be this. Anything mounted on top of the gas tank has to be done in such a way that it can be easily moved out of the way so that the gas tank can be removed during maintenance so that the gas tank can be removed from the bike. Make sure your wires have enough slack in them that all that stuff can be moved to the side to allow the tank to come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My only comment would be this. Anything mounted on top of the gas tank has to be done in such a way that it can be easily moved out of the way so that the gas tank can be removed during maintenance so that the gas tank can be removed from the bike. Make sure your wires have enough slack in them that all that stuff can be moved to the side to allow the tank to come out.
Thanks, Fred. The way I have it the box can be flipped all the way outside of the frame on the left. I just have to make sure Hannigan keeps their wiring the same. BTW, where is a good place to pick up a high beam wire without cutting into the GL1800 harness? I have all other connections covered without cutting or splicing except that one.

Thanks, Robert.
 

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Thanks, Fred. The way I have it the box can be flipped all the way outside of the frame on the left. I just have to make sure Hannigan keeps their wiring the same. BTW, where is a good place to pick up a high beam wire without cutting into the GL1800 harness? I have all other connections covered without cutting or splicing except that one.

Thanks, Robert.

Tap into the output of the high beam relay under the seat.
 

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Take a look at the pic and see if there’s anything obviously wrong. I mounted it using Velcro so that I can pull it up for servicing and adding circuits. My Hannigan GTL will be run through this.

Thanks, Robert.
Fuses are missing to activate the relay and the box ??? Nothing other than power and ground is connected the aux fuse box, but you already stated that.

Fuses blow because the wiring to those connecters are wrong ??? Hard to tell from here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don’t have a manual nor the DVDs yet. Is the relay in the box to the left if the Eastern Beaver box? How do you get into that box? Do you know what color(s) wire I’m looking for?

Thanks, Robert.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Take a look at the pic and see if there’s anything obviously wrong. I mounted it using Velcro so that I can pull it up for servicing and adding circuits. My Hannigan GTL will be run through this.

Thanks, Robert.
Fuses are missing to activate the relay and the box ??? Nothing other than power and ground is connected the aux fuse box, but you already stated that.

Fuses blow because the wiring to those connecters are wrong ??? Hard to tell from here.
Fuses are there, just no aux circuits yet.
 

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The only comment I would make is that I'd not install it there. I have a Fuzeblock installed as shown in the attached picture. Gets it away from the tank area and seemed to be a free space.

I do believe I have or had an Eastern Beaver installed on my ST. Had some issues with the relay that powered the unit so I replaced the relay, otherwise it was an OK system. As I remember the really on the Eastern Beaver system is external from the fuse block as shown here.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/Installation/installation.html

The system, with the external relay, requires some extra work since you have to run power to the relay and then power from the relay to the fuse block. Not a big deal just a deal.

All those wires should be covered in some way (not a requirement but just a good idea to minimize potential for "rubbing" damage to the wires and causing shorts). I use products like this for that purpose. Wires are rarely run "unshielded" for add ons.

https://www.cableorganizer.com/f6-flame-retardant/
 

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