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Discussion Starter #1
I know that with a cold engine you can start the bike without touching the throttle and after the fans kick in the ecm remaps.

But what if the engine is already warmed up? Can I simply disconnect the battery for a few minutes then reconnect and start it up as if it was started cold? Does it work that way? or do i need to wait until tomorrow morning (cold engine) to give it a try.

After changing out the air filter I immediately took it out for a ride without letting it adjust and it is sputtering a bit. I'm sure hoping i didnt screw up a connection. The filter was really dirty so maybe its just the air/fuel mixture causing this.
any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My problem is that I'm going on an extended ride tomorrow and sure would like to rule out that being the issue before tomorrow morning. I'm pretty sure I didnt forget a connection, there are no warning lights and everything seems to work, its just sputtering during excelleration. The filter was pretty darn dirty so I'm hoping the air/fuel mixture is out of whack.
 

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I think the ECM would have a tough time mapping cold conditions when you start the process warm.
The ECM only initializes when the engine is at normal operating temperature. It doesn't "map" cold conditions.

To answer the OP's question, only two conditions must be met for initialization: engine at normal operating temperature; throttle at idle for 90 seconds. The ECM will initialize at a stop light if you sit there long enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is there anything after changing the air filter that if I missed plugging back in would create the rough idle and poor running at lower speeds condition? I checked and double checked that everything was plugged back in before replacing the top shelter, but now I'm second guessing myself and cant be sure. I hate having to take it all apart again, ARG!
There are no FL blink codes showing anything wrong.

I'm just a bit stumped that it was running fine until I changed out the air filter.
 

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sounds like you may have forgot to plug in the airbox sensor, I think it reads air temp and uses that info to plot fuel curve. the sensor is at the back of the airbox (seat end , just under the radio , beside the cruise contol)
 

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sounds like you may have forgot to plug in the airbox sensor, I think it reads air temp and uses that info to plot fuel curve. the sensor is at the back of the airbox (seat end , just under the radio , beside the cruise contol)
That's probably it but you were partially right when you figured the new filter could be to blame. The system is in closed loop once it reaches operating temperature at idle. If you are getting more air into the system it will have to learn that and adjust it's base learned multiplier (BLM) to account for the leaner mixture. Under warmup although it's not in closed loop it does used the learned table as a base multiplier so it should clear up with time.

I know it's a pain but I would pull the tupperware and confirm the IAT sensor is plugged in.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got up early enough and with this eating at me all night decided to pull the top shelter again to double check. I guess its good news that I did it right the first time, and not to bad that I am getting much quicker at pulling the tupperware. With all the add-ons it only took me a little over an hour to take it apart check the connections and put it all back together again.
So hopefully it will map correctly and start working. If not I still have 1 more year of warranty if it turns out to be a sensor or faulty ECM. I sure would think if it was one of those components I would get a warning light. I did the sidestand MIL check and there looks to be no errors in the memory. /shrug
At least I have a back up bike for today, but its just not the same as the Wing.
 

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I've been working on cars and motorcycles for many years now and I have one absolute rule I live by. I never do any work on my bike right before a long trip (or a short one for that matter). Any work I do is at least 2 weeks prior, so that if I have a problem with repairs or maintenance, I have plenty of time to correct it. I'm not trying to second guess you or be critical, but I learned that lesson a long time ago.
Have a great trip!!
 

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First of all, disconnecting the battery does not affect the ECM in any way.

Second, the ECM does not "remap" itself. All it does is store some learned values regarding the operation of the Idle Air Control Valve which controls how the bike idles.

If you bike is not running correctly after replacing the air filter, I doubt doing the reinitialization process will have any effect.

The Honda Set Up Document they give to dealers says to warm the engine to normal operation temps, and then let it run for 90 seconds and shut it off to initialize the ECM. I could be wrong, but I think the only thing this really resets is stored values for the Idle Air Control valve, and all it affect is how the bike idles.

It isn't specifically stated that the bike has to be cold to start the procedure, all it says is that it has to idle for 90 seconds undisturbed after it is fully warmed.


 

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If you look back in the archives, Stu explained everything that happens during a reset, and what function it serves.

There is no doubt that the ECM will reset while it is warm, but it won't accomplish much. During warmup, the ECM is gathering data to set the idle parameters at all temperatures from cold all the way up to normal temperature. Once the bike is warmed up, it overwrites all the old parameters with the new data.

I agree with Fred that it is unlikely a reset will have an affect, unless you had previously done a reset with that clogged air filter and screwed up the parameters.

The only thing an ECM reset affects is idle.
 

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ECM initialization question. My milage dropped on my 03 from 44MPG to 25MPG immediately after changing my battery. The second tank was better with low 30's and by the 3rd tank I was back. The ECM supposedly only affects idle conditions. I know it wasn't gas beacuse other bikes filled from the same pump while on a trip. A dealer put in new battery and possibly not at full charge but started OK. Is this a result of not initializing the ECM?
 

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One of the things people have to get out of their heads is the old standby that disconnecting the battery erases ECM parameters from memory. Our ECM uses non volatile Flash Memory (EEPROM) to store the parameters it collects during a reset. . It doesn't need memory backup to retain the data. In fact, when you shut off your ignition, all power is removed from the ECM. Because of that, replacing you battery cannot have any affect on your change in mileage.

By far the most common cause for a drastic drop in gas mileage like that is a bad O2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
<<One of the things people have to get out of their heads is the old standby that disconnecting the battery erases ECM parameters from memory>>

That is so true, Disconnecting the battery is one of the things I remember from reading forums back when I first got my Wing. People would recommend disconnect the battery, leave it overnight, next morning reconnect, start it up, stay away from the throttle until the fans kick in, and your ECM is all warm and fuzzy with the correct air/fuel mixture amongst other things. :shrug:

That all just kind of stuck with me through the years, but reading your statement was a cold slap of obvious, when the ignition is in the off position there is no power getting to your ECM. The service manual even tells you only to disconnect the ECM connectors while the ignition is in the off position due to possible damage from flowing current.

Btw, The bike is still running like crap so I guess it's time to take it in and have it looked at. At least after rechecking my work I feel safe that I wont hear from the mechanic they found a connector unplugged. lol
 

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http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186240

Larry,

The initialization process allows the ECM to adapt to the full operating range of temperature-related sensors (thermistors), and it will not enter adaptive mode unless the coolant temperature needle is below the lowest mark on the gauge. If the throttle is moved, adaptation is canceled. There's no re-programming going on during this process.

As you noted, the ECM reset has now been included in the service manual in the ECM replacement section. It also appears in the section dealing with incorrect idle speed. Once done, the reset never needs to be performed again unless the ECM is replaced. What the service manual fails to include is information regarding replacement of the IAT sensor or ECT sensor. If replacement of either of those sensors results in high, low, or unstable idle rpm, another ECM reset should be performed.

Unlike on many cars, the GL1800 ECM has all power removed when the key is switched off. Therefore, contrary testimonials notwithstanding, disconnecting the battery accomplishes absolutely nothing that couldn't also be accomplished by simply turning the key off.

Stu
 

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Thanks for finding it Fred. Even I didn't remember the part about him saying that it wouldn't even attempt to gather new data unless the bike was stone cold.
 

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I'm guessing there is a vacuum hose loose. This will cause poor running and is easy to cause with all the spaghetti down there around the airbox. Goodluck.
 

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If you didn't have the problem before you changed the air filter, then you caused a problem. (IMHO)
 

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Something happened that affected gas milage when I had my battery replaced at a dealer. I didn't say it was the ECM but asked if it could knowing that there are many sensors affecting it. Oxygen sensors or vacuum lines don't get better with time and has been fine ever since. I am tempted to try and repeat this senero if it wasn't such a pain so I guess I will just let it go at that.
 
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