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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to install a lead for some Gerbings and I plan to use an electrical accessory power block and I want it on a relay so it's off with the ignition although I plan to wire in an on off switch. I'm a novice on the electrical side so I'd appreciate any advice - i.e. powering the relay so it's off with the ignition - where do I tap in to a power source? It's a 2004 gl1800. Thanks in advance for any suggestions on this.
 

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If I understand you correctly, you want to draw power from the EC power block. I believe it is rated for 30 amps. I would use the accessory terminals on the bikes fuse block instead. Use the power from that connection to trip a relay when you turn the bike on. The relay will draw needed power for the Gerbings directly from the battery. When the bike is off, so are the terminals and the relay.
 

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EC's aux block has a relay. The entire panel is switched. The main fuse is 30 amp. Don't get hung up on this. Just like a 100 amp main in a house panel that may have the potential for a 1000 amp draw. Unlikely you will ever have everything on at max at the same time. I have two Gerbing fuses, 10 amp ea. Grip heaters 10 amp, trailer lights and aux power 20 amp, volt meter 5 amp. Total 55 amps. Never blown a main and I quite frequently run with all of these operating at the same time. Just make sure your wire is rated to the fuse.

 

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moby1800 said:
I'm going to install a lead for some Gerbings and I plan to use an electrical accessory power block and I want it on a relay so it's off with the ignition although I plan to wire in an on off switch. I'm a novice on the electrical side so I'd appreciate any advice - i.e. powering the relay so it's off with the ignition - where do I tap in to a power source? It's a 2004 gl1800. Thanks in advance for any suggestions on this.
Moby,
JMHO, but if I were wiring for heated clothing I would wire direct to the battery (fused of course). I don't see a need for a switch since the heated clothing will leave the bike when you (or your passenger) do and no danger of draining the batt.

I have the older style Gerbings that uses the polarized two prong plug that is the same as the one used by my Batt Tender Jr. Connecting those directly to the batt allows me to use the same connectors for the Batt Tender Jr.

Things that stay on the bike, (seat heater, grip heaters, sat radio & GPS) do need to be switched with the ignition sw to prevent batt drain. :wink:

Good Luck!
 

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One drawback to the EC power plate is that the Gerbings ring connectors will not fit the EC power plate terminals, you have to cut them (ring terminals) off and put on smaller prong terminals.
 

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Moby,
JMHO, but if I were wiring for heated clothing I would wire direct to the battery (fused of course). I don't see a need for a switch since the heated clothing will leave the bike when you (or your passenger) do and no danger of draining the batt.

I have the older style Gerbings that uses the polarized two prong plug that is the same as the one used by my Batt Tender Jr. Connecting those directly to the batt allows me to use the same connectors for the Batt Tender Jr.

Things that stay on the bike, (seat heater, grip heaters, sat radio & GPS) do need to be switched with the ignition sw to prevent batt drain. :wink:

Good Luck![/quote]

That's the way I started out. I also have the two prong for my gear. Passenger is the new style plug. Won't drain the batt but problem is, if you aren't watching what you are doing, you can blow the fuse connecting and disconecting on both styles. Not sure if it is spike or cross terminal contact but aggravating as hell. You can do the same thing if you have the switch on and connect. I ride with an old coot who has a straight hook up, no switch. His temp control is plug, unplug. In one day he blew so many fuses feeling around in his pocket connecting and reconnecting that I finally by passed the fuse. My daughter also has a direct battery hook up on her VLX. No place for a aux panel but I am going to have to switch her's because she blows fuses on a regular basis.

Another thing about EC's aux panel and I'm not pushing them, just pleased with mine, it has a separate lead for a charger. According to Lewis, if you have a charger hooked up and forget to disconnect it before starting the bike, you can damage the electrical system. His automatically disconnects once the key is turned on. Not that I have ever known anyone to have a problem but I take him at his word.
 

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This post is just a repeat of my response to your same post in the GPS/MP3/Electronic motorcycle devices forum.

razwrld said:
Had same situation on my 2006.If you look at the top left hand corner of your Wings fuse box,there are 2 screws,positive and negative.Hook up to these and your acces will turn on and off with the key.Good luck.
razwrld,

Just so you know...the connection, that you mentioned, is fused at only 5 amps. I wouldn't try to use Gerbing's at any less than 15 amps...identify the total amps expected to be used by the Gerbing's you plan to hook up...Jacket Liner (6.4 amps), Pants Liner (4.5 amps), Gloves (2.2 amps)...as you can see...it adds up quick...

moby1800 said:
I'm going to install a lead for some Gerbings and I plan to use an electrical accessory power block and I want it on a relay so it's off with the ignition although I plan to wire in an on off switch. I'm a novice on the electrical side so I'd appreciate any advice - i.e. powering the relay so it's off with the ignition - where do I tap in to a power source? It's a 2004 gl1800. Thanks in advance for any suggestions on this.
moby1800,

If I were to do this, I would use the EC "Power Plate" Power Distribution for this and your other accessories...check it out here...

:click: http://www.electricalconnection.com/pow ... bution.htm
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm using a distribution block that doesn't have a relay. What's the sequence I should wire off the battery? Relay, block, switch (I want to have an on/off rocker for the Gerbings without using the regulator - maybe I'm making this too complicated?) Wouldn't the relay be "always on" if I wire directly to the battery?
 

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Let me see if I can explain it. I know how it works and how to do it, but I may not get the explanation right. A relay is a switch that is turned on by a "trigger". The ignition switch, the accessory terminals on the bikes fuse block, or some tapped voltage. When it is turned on, it will conduct through the relay, higher current from the battery, than a normal on/off switch would normally do. That is the reason for the 4 (5) contacts on a relay. If your block does not have a relay, and is connected to the battery directly, it is always "on". Anything you have connected to the block has to be turned off, or you will drain the battery. As stated before, you can run the Gerbings through the block and if you want, a switch (rated high enough) to turn the appliance on/off. But why? Our controller works just fine. As mentioned before, if you want the whole set up to be off when the bike is off, run it through a relay, trigger by the accessory ternimals. Or the ignition, or any other convienient voltage that is only on with the key on. Did I make any sense?
 

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Terpen said:
Moby,
Won't drain the batt but problem is, if you aren't watching what you are doing, you can blow the fuse connecting and disconecting on both styles. Not sure if it is spike or cross terminal contact but aggravating as hell. You can do the same thing if you have the switch on and connect. I ride with an old coot who has a straight hook up, no switch. His temp control is plug, unplug. In one day he blew so many fuses feeling around in his pocket connecting and reconnecting that I finally by passed the fuse. My daughter also has a direct battery hook up on her VLX. No place for a aux panel but I am going to have to switch her's because she blows fuses on a regular basis.
Terpen,
After four years and some 70,000 miles (combined '02 and '03) I have never blown a fuse on either Gerbings hook-up (both direct to the batt). The only way I can see that a fuse would blow would be to short the two terminals on the bike end. That's assuming the fuse is large enough to handle the initial load of the clothes. There is no ground in the clothing, just a complete heating circuit.

Others here may have some other ideas how to blow a fuse there. :wink:
 

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Included with the Gerbings heated cloths is a warning about (NEWER Motorcycles) Connect the Battery Harness RED + and BLK - to the BATTERY + & - Before you connect Your Heated Cloths START the bike then connect and set your thermostat, When Stopping your bike turn your heated cloths off before you Kill your engine.


This was included in a new battery harness that I ordered this year to add to my Harley. So if have a 06 or newer it may apply if you are moving older cloths to your new ride.

Just passing this along. this info can be checked at http://www.gerbing.com/
 
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