GL1800Riders Forums banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
811 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My GL1800 owners manual calls for the "Honda" brand antifreeze/coolant. My local dealership, which is a Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha dealer, did not carry the "Honda" brand antifreeze/coolant.

Instead, they had the Yamaha brand, "Yamacool", premixed 60/40 blend of antifreeze/coolant which they said would work in the Goldwing. I bought 4 qts. today, just got home.

Before I change my cooling system with this new "Yamaha" coolant, I just wanted to ask y'all if this would be okay... Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,893 Posts
coolant

Just make sure it says somewhere on the label that it is "silicate free". If not, return it and go to the local Honda dealership and by a gallon from them ( cheaper that the bike shop and same thing ). Prestone also makes a silicate free anti-freeze, but you have to read the labels carefully to find the correct one. For sure not the Prestone Dex Cool. That stuff is crap and not even good for cars. Hope this is helpful. Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
My GL1800 owners manual calls for the "Honda" brand antifreeze/coolant. My local dealership, which is a Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha dealer, did not carry the "Honda" brand antifreeze/coolant.

Instead, they had the Yamaha brand, "Yamacool", premixed 60/40 blend of antifreeze/coolant which they said would work in the Goldwing. I bought 4 qts. today, just got home.

Before I change my cooling system with this new "Yamaha" coolant, I just wanted to ask y'all if this would be okay... Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
As long as the coolant is Silicate Free it will be fine. I changed mine before I left on my trip and I use Prestone pre mixed coolant that is Silicate Free. The manual actually says use an engine coolant that is silicate free.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
17,793 Posts
Sorry to be so anal about this. But since Owners Manual are different from year to year, it is best to read your Owners Manual and use it as your guide and not ours. I was caught off gaurd once using an 04 owners manual to order oil on my 07 and blew my clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,102 Posts
OK, I gotta ask, how did the oil required for an '04 Wing cause your '07 to blow a clutch?

Hector

Sorry to be so anal about this. But since Owners Manual are different from year to year, it is best to read your Owners Manual and use it as your guide and not ours. I was caught off gaurd once using an 04 owners manual to order oil on my 07 and blew my clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Sorry to be so anal about this. But since Owners Manual are different from year to year, it is best to read your Owners Manual and use it as your guide and not ours. I was caught off gaurd once using an 04 owners manual to order oil on my 07 and blew my clutch.
:shrug::shrug::shrug:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,129 Posts
I use Prestone that I got at Wally World. It's been working great for years in my cars and trucks. I guess there are lemmings who think you "must" use motorcycle "branded" stuff or the world will come to an end.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
17,793 Posts
Keep in mind that much of my clutch problem was because I was competing in a slow race ... but read on.

For my 04, I was considering going to Honda's new semi-synthetic oil. As I recall, there was either a picture of the oil bottle in the Owners Manual or a line specifically recommending the semi-synthetic. Their gold oil bottle used to be marked "engineered for GoldWiings." Engineered for GW is just what I needed; I didn't want to do an oil change in the middle of a long trip.

When it came time to order a case, I was not ordering it for my 04, I was ordering it for my 07. I had the Owners Manual for my 04 in my hand and placed my order oil order according to that owners manual. Keep in mind, that Honda's oil bottle is no longer marked "engineered for GWs" and Honda had removed that oil as the recommended one in the printing of the 07 manual. The reason, because over time semi became known to possibly cause clutch problems in GWs. The look on the service managers face and his comments told me so.

That is why I always say to not use his Owners Manual, or Bill or Bob's Owners Manual, but the information out of the one that came with your Wing. From year to year the operating instruction and how to care for these bike do differ.

No Honda would not warrentee my clutch at 22k.

As a result of trying one more time to change to a synthetic oil and it not working for me, I still use Honda's dino GN4. An oil I can defiently count on. I always know what to expect with that oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
GoldWingrGreg; [FONT=Times New Roman said:
"Sorry to be so anal about this. But since Owners Manual are different from year to year, it is best to read your Owners Manual and use it as your guide and not ours. I was caught off gaurd once using an 04 owners manual to order oil on my 07 and blew my clutch."[/FONT]

"Keep in mind that much of my clutch problem was because I was competing in a slow race"

"As a result of trying one more time to change to a synthetic oil and it not working for me, I still use Honda's dino GN4. An oil I can defiently count on. I always know what to expect with that oil".

ghostshifting?


..louie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,976 Posts
I have only read the MOM that came with my personal 2002 GL1800. I am aware, from following this forum, that later models now had recommendations that include 10-30 grade oils if they meet certain spec guidlines similar to the motor oils previously recommended. I am totall unaware of any limitations regarding motor oils based upon conventional base stocks, blended (semi-synthetic) base stocks, or fully synthetic base stocks. Can you give more specifics regarding the differences in the oil specs. If you still have both MOMs, can you briefly compare and contrast for me. Honda, so far as I know, did not change the engine design or clutch design significantly and I think all GL1800 from '01 to present can use 10-40 grade oils meeting current API specifications. Very curious about you having a clutch "blow". Did it really blow-up, or did it dump the oil out the exhaust due to seal failure, or what? (Matt will probably post the monkey joke now).

prs
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
17,793 Posts
ICan you give more specifics regarding the differences in the oil specs. If you still have both MOMs, can you briefly compare and contrast for me. Honda, so far as I know, did not change the engine design or clutch design significantly and I think all GL1800 from '01 to present can use 10-40 grade oils meeting current API specifications. Very curious about you having a clutch "blow". Did it really blow-up, or did it dump the oil out the exhaust due to seal failure, or what? (Matt will probably post the monkey joke now).

prs
Sorry ... don't want to get into an oil discussion about this, and I am not a petroleum engineer who those types of questions should be addressed too.

The best advise I can give is to use your owners manual as your guide. I use Honda's GN4 (dino) oil, and 10/40 wieght because of my climate.

You are correct that the engines have not changed but the clutches did. I think the earlier GL1800s have more clutch discs and the newer ones less. As for my bike, I fried the clutch discs. Synthetic oils are known to fill in pours, and on a clutch those pours are needed for a clutch to work effectively.

I'm sure others will jump in with plenty of oil oppinions so i'm getting the Lazy Boy and my pop corn.

:popcorn::coffee1::popcorn::coffee1::popcorn::coffee1:
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
17,793 Posts
ghostshifting?


..louie
Louie ... some GL1800s are known to change gears without the rider causing it. It is often accociated to a 5>4 shift. Sometime it can be an upshift from 3>4. Some riders blame it on a "miss shift" or "lazy shift." This shifting can be extreemly infreaquent (every 10,000 miles or so), or/and can become extreemly frequent (within seconds of putting it in 5th it will drop into 4th). This condition usually begins before 8,000 miles but on some it does not show up until around 60k.

Most that have these often don't want to beleive that thier bike would do such a thing and will come up with lots of voodu shift technices like pre-loading the shift lever, or keeping there toe under the lever for a few seconds after they have shifted, only shifting between certain RPMs, or only shifting it when heading in a North direction, or when the sun is to their right, .... etc, and etc, and etc ... this voodu list goes on and on and on and on. The reallity is that at some point the rider has to call it what it really is ... ghost shifting. Eventually several gears will end up getting damaged making the Wing no longer ridable.

Most are fixed under warrentee and some end up being a ghost shifter again since the real problem causing it has really never been determind. A few will have me fix their damage by undercutting the dogs. The pix below is a dog that has been under cut. Doing that is like dove-tailing them and the gears end up drawing themselves together. Under cutting is a common practice on m/c gears that are under sever abuse like racing bikes.

All 3 of my 3 GL1800s were ghost shifters. 2 of them had there gears corrected. My 07 that I ride now has undercut gears and for the past 10,000 miles or so are the first 10,000 miles that I have rode that bike without the ongoing fear of it shifting out on me. Sometimes when it doesn that it can be extreemly dangerous. Hopefully you don't have one of these, but if you do there is a permanate cure.

The beginning symtoms are not really knowing what your bike just did, feeling like your rear tire slipped on a wet leaf, and confusion as to what gear you are in. Some will be in tune with their bike enough to know that the RPMs just increased. Often the shift is soft enough to not even feel it ... eventually BAMMMM !!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,701 Posts
Louie ... some GL1800s are known to change gears without the rider causing it. It is often accociated to a 5>4 shift. Sometime it can be an upshift from 3>4. Some riders blame it on a "miss shift" or "lazy shift." This shifting can be extreemly infreaquent (every 10,000 miles or so), or/and can become extreemly frequent (within seconds of putting it in 5th it will drop into 4th). This condition usually begins before 8,000 miles but on some it does not show up until around 60k.

Most that have these often don't want to beleive that thier bike would do such a thing and will come up with lots of voodu shift technices like pre-loading the shift lever, or keeping there toe under the lever for a few seconds after they have shifted, only shifting between certain RPMs, or only shifting it when heading in a North direction, or when the sun is to their right, .... etc, and etc, and etc ... this voodu list goes on and on and on and on. The reallity is that at some point the rider has to call it what it really is ... ghost shifting. Eventually several gears will end up getting damaged making the Wing no longer ridable.

Most are fixed under warrentee and some end up being a ghost shifter again since the real problem causing it has really never been determind. A few will have me fix their damage by undercutting the dogs. The pix below is a dog that has been under cut. Doing that is like dove-tailing them and the gears end up drawing themselves together. Under cutting is a common practice on m/c gears that are under sever abuse like racing bikes.

All 3 of my 3 GL1800s were ghost shifters. 2 of them had there gears corrected. My 07 that I ride now has undercut gears and for the past 10,000 miles or so are the first 10,000 miles that I have rode that bike without the ongoing fear of it shifting out on me. Sometimes when it doesn that it can be extreemly dangerous. Hopefully you don't have one of these, but if you do there is a permanate cure.

The beginning symtoms are not really knowing what your bike just did, feeling like your rear tire slipped on a wet leaf, and confusion as to what gear you are in. Some will be in tune with their bike enough to know that the RPMs just increased. Often the shift is soft enough to not even feel it ... eventually BAMMMM !!!!
I will vouch for the BAMMMM!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,091 Posts
My GL1800 owners manual calls for the "Honda" brand antifreeze/coolant. My local dealership, which is a Honda/Suzuki/Yamaha dealer, did not carry the "Honda" brand antifreeze/coolant.

Instead, they had the Yamaha brand, "Yamacool", premixed 60/40 blend of antifreeze/coolant which they said would work in the Goldwing. I bought 4 qts. today, just got home.

Before I change my cooling system with this new "Yamaha" coolant, I just wanted to ask y'all if this would be okay... Any guidance would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
Back to the original question. I would think it would work fine. Just check the label, make sure its silicate free and your good to go. Another source for Honda coolant is the Honda automotive parts counter... they have premixed silicate free coolant that works perfectly in the wing and it cost less then the Honda moto coolant.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
811 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Well, that's the concern. It does not specifically state "silicate free". The dealership ( Honda/Yamaha / Suzuki dealer ) said it is what they recommend for Goldwings. After coming home and developing some apprehension, I posted the original question on this forum.

Since then, I called another Honda dealer, a little further away. He said he carried both the Yamaha and Honda labeled antifreeze/coolants. I asked if either were labeled "silicate free", he put me on hold, got a couple containers off the shelf and read the labels to me. Neither were marked "silicate free".

So at this point, my concern continues. I will likely try to return them (hopefully they will take the 4 quarts back), then go to Advance Auto, or similar store and look for an antifreeze that specifically reads "silicate free".
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
17,793 Posts
Well, that's the concern. It does not specifically state "silicate free". The dealership ( Honda/Yamaha / Suzuki dealer ) said it is what they recommend for Goldwings. After coming home and developing some apprehension, I posted the original question on this forum.

Since then, I called another Honda dealer, a little further away. He said he carried both the Yamaha and Honda labeled antifreeze/coolants. I asked if either were labeled "silicate free", he put me on hold, got a couple containers off the shelf and read the labels to me. Neither were marked "silicate free".

So at this point, my concern continues. I will likely try to return them (hopefully they will take the 4 quarts back), then go to Advance Auto, or similar store and look for an antifreeze that specifically reads "silicate free".
You can go to WalMart and get Preston. It says silicant free on the jug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
I just did mine...purchased a gallon from the Honda (automotive) dealership. Bottle clearly states non-silicate and is a 50/50 premix. I figured enough Honda car parts are on the bike why not some antifreeze too.

Plus it's a pretty blue color, sorta like the Ty-D-Bol lake :tongue:

 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
17,793 Posts
I just did mine...purchased a gallon from the Honda (automotive) dealership. Bottle clearly states non-silicate and is a 50/50 premix. I figured enough Honda car parts are on the bike why not some antifreeze too.

Plus it's a pretty blue color, sorta like the Ty-D-Bol lake :tongue:

How much for a gallon?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,713 Posts
I am very anal about my coolant choice now using the wrong type of coolant on this bike will take out your water pump pretty fast as in the case with mine awhile ago do yourself a favor and get the Honda car or bike coolant and don't worry any more :yes1:

CHEERS :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
811 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Guys. I am will head out to one of the larger Honda dealers to look for it. I will feel much better with the "silicate free" marking !
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top