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After reading some of the post about oil types. I see that there are some running Honda Synthetic oil in there bikes. I run Valolin 30 weight in my bike. I was told some years ago, can't remember by whom that Synthetic oil would cause the clutch to slip. Has anyone experienced any problems using Synthetic. I use Synthetic in my F-150, and would use Synthetic in my bike. I know that it cuts down on friction between metal parts. Can someone convince me that it is safe to use. Oil change due soon.
 

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After reading some of the post about oil types. I see that there are some running Honda Synthetic oil in there bikes. I run Valolin 30 weight in my bike. I was told some years ago, can't remember by whom that Synthetic oil would cause the clutch to slip. Has anyone experienced any problems using Synthetic. I use Synthetic in my F-150, and would use Synthetic in my bike. I know that it cuts down on friction between metal parts. Can someone convince me that it is safe to use. Oil change due soon.
If you read your manual you will find that 10w-30 or 10w-40 is recommended for the Gold wing... Not 30 weight. Any JASO or non energy conserving oil will work including synthetic.
 

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If you read your manual you will find that 10w-30 or 10w-40 is recommended for the Gold wing... Not 30 weight. Any JASO or non energy conserving oil will work including synthetic.
What he said. Synthetic is not a problem. Too much moly/friction modifiers is not OK. The safest way to be sure is to use oil certified on the label as JASO MA because this specification covers the wet clutch application. Others just use any oil of proper viscosity (see owners manual, 10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) that is not labeled as "energy conserving" or "resource conserving".
 

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As I understand it, synthetic motorcycle oil is OK; synthetic automobile is not recommended.
 

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Oil

As I understand it, synthetic motorcycle oil is OK; synthetic automobile is not recommended.
Most synthetic automotive oil is "Energy Conserving." That is the problem with using it in a motorcycle with a wet clutch.
 

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SHELL T6 :thumbup::thumbup:
 

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I have 26000 miles on my 2012 and have been running Synthetic Oil since 4000 miles and have no problems what so ever with my clutch.
 

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Any oil that isn't energy conserving or has friction modifiers is good to use. I have 98k on mine and I've used nothing but synthetic since the first change.

LAW
 

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I simply use the Honda oil that is recommended for the bike and never had any problems.
 

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I met a guy that has 417.000 on his 02 and when I ask him what he uses for oil he said he changes oil every 5.000 miles. When it reached that point he stops at a walmart and gets the cheapest oil and filter on the shelf and changes it in the parking lot.
 

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old geezers

I met a guy that has 417.000 on his 02 and when I ask him what he uses for oil he said he changes oil every 5.000 miles. When it reached that point he stops at a walmart and gets the cheapest oil and filter on the shelf and changes it in the parking lot.
:agree: I have been using Mobile 1 10w40. But with all the 100K+ bikes out there recommending cheap oil @ 5K. My next change will try SuperTech 10w30 - it's about $12 a gal. I have always used Fram filters and I change @ 5K.

...gene
 

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:agree: I have been using Mobile 1 10w40. But with all the 100K+ bikes out there recommending cheap oil @ 5K. My next change will try SuperTech 10w30 - it's about $12 a gal. I have always used Fram filters and I change @ 5K.

...gene
That will be a "resource conserving" oil which your owners manual recommends you do not use because of the wet clutch. True, any oil will take a goldwing to 100K miles but that really is no miles at all for a goldwing engine. Many owners want their bike to go much further. I'll probably pass mine down to future generations. I haven't decided how many generations yet. I agree that changing it is probably more important than brand or synthetic versus regular, but it needs to be the proper spec. If my great-great grandsons clutch slipped I would turn over in my.....uh you get the idea.
 

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That will be a "resource conserving" oil

I don't think you'll find the Energy Conserving stamp on any 40 weight oil. I've been using the Mobil 1 10W-40 oil in (3) motorcycles without any clutch slipping. Plus if you go to their web site you'll find that the additive package is within a few PPM of their motorcycle specific oil. But they will not advertise that since they can charge twice the price for the motorcycle oil. YMMV
 

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I don't think you'll find the Energy Conserving stamp on any 40 weight oil. I've been using the Mobil 1 10W-40 oil in (3) motorcycles without any clutch slipping. Plus if you go to their web site you'll find that the additive package is within a few PPM of their motorcycle specific oil. But they will not advertise that since they can charge twice the price for the motorcycle oil. YMMV
Is that Mobil 1 High Mileage? (That's the only 10W-40 I see other than the Racing 4T MC stuff.)
 

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:agree: I have been using Mobile 1 10w40. But with all the 100K+ bikes out there recommending cheap oil @ 5K. My next change will try SuperTech 10w30 - it's about $12 a gal. I have always used Fram filters and I change @ 5K.

...gene
A much better choice is Rotella T 15W40. $12.97 a gallon at Walmart all day long. Is JASO-MA certified and won't mess up your clutch like the Supertech 10w30 will. It also has more zinc which will help your transmission and shifting. It's essentially the same price as the supertech and is much better for your bike.

I'd recommend spending $3-5 more for your filter as well. Fram is just slightly better than not filtering your oil at all. Your Goldwing will last for at least 100K miles with Fram filters but they really are pretty bad. If you were going for 200K miles, Fram would be a bad choice.

You can get a Honda OEM filter for less than $10. Bosch and Mobil 1 are also good choices for around the same money. You'll still be at less than $25 for an oil change with great oil and a great filter.

BTW...I'm convinced you could put just about any oil in a goldwing and get about 100K miles out of the engine. However, you may have issues with your clutch or transmission performing worse than optimal if you use the energy conserving oils with friction modifiers as they are just not made for clutches and transmissions. They are made for cars where the transmission and clutch oil is separate from the engine oil.
 

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not resource consrving

That will be a "resource conserving" oil which your owners manual recommends you do not use because of the wet clutch. True, any oil will take a goldwing to 100K miles but that really is no miles at all for a goldwing engine. Many owners want their bike to go much further. I'll probably pass mine down to future generations. I haven't decided how many generations yet. I agree that changing it is probably more important than brand or synthetic versus regular, but it needs to be the proper spec. If my great-great grandsons clutch slipped I would turn over in my.....uh you get the idea.
I don't think you'll find the Energy Conserving stamp on any 40 weight oil. I've been using the Mobil 1 10W-40 oil in (3) motorcycles without any clutch slipping. Plus if you go to their web site you'll find that the additive package is within a few PPM of their motorcycle specific oil. But they will not advertise that since they can charge twice the price for the motorcycle oil. YMMV
Is that Mobil 1 High Mileage? (That's the only 10W-40 I see other than the Racing 4T MC stuff.)
yes, it's the high mileage stuff and not resource conserving.
oil.jpg
The clutch works great.
...gene
 
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