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Does anyone know what the torque value is for the engine sub frame bolts. Service manual say tighten them. I am putting 06 motor into an 04 frame. They are 14mm heads, but General spec seems to only cover up to 12 mm. Unless they are really talking about the shaft thickness of the bolts. Shaft is only 9 mm. UPDATE: After checking Standard torque in Service Manual per Rocky, I found that these bolts are 10x40 Flange bolts. Therefore Honda recommends 29 Ft LBS. If you put weight on engine mounts, bolts will probably settle down to the bottom of hole that carries Engine mount bolt. So since there isn't a lot of slack inside the hole, as long as the bolts go in to the motor after the special nut assembly is torqued, seems to work out OK. Thanks for all the good input.
 

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IronMan
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Check with goldwinggreg- he usually has specs on stuff
 

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Does anyone know what the torque value is for the engine sub frame bolts. Service manual say tighten them. I am putting 06 motor into an 04 frame. They are 14mm heads, but General spec seems to only cover up to 12 mm. Unless they are really talking about the shaft thickness of the bolts. Shaft is only 9 mm.
PM Sent.
 

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Notorious Rocket Scientist
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They are 14mm heads, but General spec seems to only cover up to 12 mm. Unless they are really talking about the shaft thickness of the bolts. Shaft is only 9 mm.
The torque specifications (in fact, all screw and bolt specifications in general) always refer to the THREAD size.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2
 

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I've never found a specific torque value for those bolts either. Often the best a person can do is use the torque chart like you've tried. When I measure across the threads, those are considered a 10mm. If you want you can use that value listed in the chart of 29 ft/lbs.

Or, if you've gained a broader overview of the Wing, you can find a similar bolt that has a specific torque that has its own torque value listed. For those bolts, I use this value.

Side stand bracket bolt 2 10 44 (4.5, 33) ... 33 ft/lbs.

Just an FYI ... when you're finally ready to torque your engine to the frame, make sure it is hanging by its mounting bolts and not supported by a jack underneith.

Why the motor swap?
 

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Just an FYI ... when you're finally ready to torque your engine to the frame, make sure it is hanging by its mounting bolts and not supported by a jack underneith.

That is not correct.

Every video shown of building a goldwing shows the frame installed over the engine resting in a jig. So the engine is supported,Then the engine bolts are torqued.
 

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Regarding the bolts that set the motor to the frame, the ones with the special tool required to hold the lock rings; the motor must be supported and the frame also supported; that is the fit is relaxed or neutral. The torque specs are so small on those that you will never get it correct if there is any bind or resistance. The torque values are very light and a bicycle type inch pound beam type wrench is your best bet. I do not recall having to fudge on the ones for the sub frame parts, but I have only done motor install once. I prolly dropped back 10 yards and punted; ie, German torque (gut'n tight).

prs
 

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Regarding the bolts that set the motor to the frame, the ones with the special tool required to hold the lock rings; the motor must be supported and the frame also supported; that is the fit is relaxed or neutral. The torque specs are so small on those that you will never get it correct if there is any bind or resistance. The torque values are very light and a bicycle type inch pound beam type wrench is your best bet. I do not recall having to fudge on the ones for the sub frame parts, but I have only done motor install once. I prolly dropped back 10 yards and punted; ie, German torque (gut'n tight).

prs
What I do is support the motor with jack while positioning it, and run the 6 mount bolts in and then take the jack out from under the motor. Then one by one I torque the right side draw in the motor into the right side frame, and one by one I'll remove a bolt on the left side to deal with all those torques.

Before learning to do it that way, on a couple of them, I'd find that a control unit stay would be pushed up on by the air box just a small amount, and it was not that way before removing the motor. I never seportate the throttle body from the manifold so that is not the issue. Over time I've learned to allow it to "hang" while I torque the motor into place. If you do enough motor pulls you'll see what I mean.
 

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I hope to never do another. :nojoke:

prs
 
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