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Anyone have a comment on Euro standard Headlamps? Used or tried them, like or hate non DOT standard? Anything I should bring back to the USA from Germany for the Goldwing.
 

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Satkins93,
The headlight issue has been discussed more than once. Some use Silver Stars, some have converted to HIDs, and there's other alternatives. I myself am running stock bulbs for a couple of reasons, 1, because in my opinion, it's enough light for even our back country twisted roads at night, and 2, many people state that installing more powerful bulbs will cause more heat in the bulb area and can distort or damage some parts.
Scott
 

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Satkins93

I have HID's in the low beams & these in the High. I bought them from the UK.







Yes Scott, the headlight issue has been discussed, many times. However, many believe (me included) that there are better alternatives to the stock lighting.

Just like, many believe using Car Tires is a bad decision & will cause a terrible wreck. It shouldn't even be attempted. Ever heard of that?


Sleddog
 

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Discussion Starter #4
EU bulbs

I was buying stock EURO bulbs for the light pattern. Not the brightness. THey are not DOT specs. see lower in the article. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlamp

"The international ECE Regulations for filament headlamps[4] and for high-intensity discharge headlamps[5] specify a beam with a sharp, asymmetric cutoff preventing significant amounts of light from being cast into the eyes of drivers of preceding or oncoming cars. Control of glare is less strict in the North American SAE beam standard contained in FMVSS / CMVSS 108.[6]"

"ECE low beams are characterised by a distinct horizontal "cutoff" line at the top of the beam. Below the line is bright, and above is dark. On the side of the beam facing away from oncoming traffic (right in right-traffic countries, left in left-traffic countries), this cutoff sweeps or steps upward to direct light to road signs and pedestrians. SAE low beams may or may not have a cutoff, and if a cutoff is present, it may be of two different general types: VOL, which is conceptually similar to the ECE beam in that the cutoff is located at the top of the left side of the beam and aimed slightly below horizontal, or VOR, which has the cutoff at the top of the right side of the beam and aimed at the horizon.[10]"
 

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I have been buying the Osram Silverstar bulbs from Lewis. He calls them "e-dot" and sells a pair of them for $39.95. These may be the same bulbs you are looking at.

I like them because they last MUCH longer than the Silver Stars made in U.S. plants. The ones I bought at WalMart only lasted a couple of months. (about 7k miles)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
h7 bulbs

Osram, Is what I bought 55w. Any difference in this bulb as far as light pattern?
 

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Sorry, I wasn't looking for any light pattern differences. I just wanted the German built bulbs for their durability. Can't say that I noticed a difference, so it must not be radically different.
 
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I think the reflector and lens dictates the pattern, not the bulb. There is no lens or light focusihg shape on the bulb's glass envelope.
 

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Satkins93

I have HID's in the low beams & these in the High. I bought them from the UK.







Yes Scott, the headlight issue has been discussed, many times. However, many believe (me included) that there are better alternatives to the stock lighting.

Just like, many believe using Car Tires is a bad decision & will cause a terrible wreck. It shouldn't even be attempted. Ever heard of that?


Sleddog

Do yu have any problems with the4se distorting or melting parts? Are yu running a high beam modulator?
 

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Do yu have any problems with the4se distorting or melting parts? Are yu running a high beam modulator?
No problems in the two bikes I've used them in. My Brother uses them in his bike also. Neither of us use a modulator.

Sleddog
 

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While the GL1500 benefited from Euro spec'd lens, I believe that the GL1800 would not. The GL1800 already has a very sharp cutoff with the right side rise to comply with DOT regulations. If you did find some euro spec'd lens, you would have to be very careful that they come those parts of Europe that ride right, not left....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
h7 bulbs

From Right side drivers, in Germany. Now for the car tire.
 

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I think the reflector and lens dictates the pattern, not the bulb. There is no lens or light focusihg shape on the bulb's glass envelope.
You are right. It is the reflector, not the bulb that determines the light pattern and cutoff. I don't know where that theory came from. All H7 bulbs have the filament on the same axis.

I agree with DJFire. While there is always a chance that the housing can handle more heat than it was designed for, using higher wattage bulbs is a potentially expensive risk to take. Those housing are not cheap. Added to that, Honda did not build in any fudge factor in the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ralley lights

Better to get a set of add of lights with its own wiring and switches for extra high beam lighting at night. Many of these are sold with directed beams to the side or road surface. IMHO. So what I'll do is test these EU bulds 55w h7 against another bike for light patterns. This may take a few weeks to set up.
 

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Satkins93

I have HID's in the low beams & these in the High. I bought them from the UK.







Yes Scott, the headlight issue has been discussed, many times. However, many believe (me included) that there are better alternatives to the stock lighting.

Just like, many believe using Car Tires is a bad decision & will cause a terrible wreck. It shouldn't even be attempted. Ever heard of that?


Sleddog
Same setup here - FutureVision HID conversion for the lows and rallies in the highs.

I've had the rallies for 20k miles or so and haven't hit any problems yet.
 

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You are right. It is the reflector, not the bulb that determines the light pattern and cutoff. I don't know where that theory came from. All H7 bulbs have the filament on the same axis.
I think the issue comes up when using lights that don't have a filament.

I agree with DJFire. While there is always a chance that the housing can handle more heat than it was designed for, using higher wattage bulbs is a potentially expensive risk to take. Those housing [sic] are not cheap.
Emphasis is mine.
One could label most things as a "potentially expensive risk" to take.
When I started the process of upgrading the lights on my Goldwing, I based my decision, partially, on the experience and expertise of others who have dealt with this problem before.
Most of the folks on the LD Rider list were using aux lights to augment their stock lighting system but I did not want to go to the complexity or cost of getting aux lights.
A couple of responses were from well know LD riders who had been using H7 rally bulbs in their Goldwings. Both responders had been using Rally bulbs for years in both high and low beams and both were very happy with the results.
On that basis, I decided to use Rally bulbs and, so far, no problems.
So, while using Rally bulbs is a "potentially expensive risk" every indication is that there is zero actual risk.

Added to that, Honda did not build in any fudge factor in the wiring.
Just for grins, what is the maximum amperage for the wiring on that circuit?
For a 55 watt bulb, it's handling 55/12=4.58 amps and for rally bulbs it's handling 6.67 amps so I'm wondering how much "headroom" there is?
 
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