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F1 light on, then off?

738 views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  JD 
#1 ·
750 Miles from home and the F1 light comes on. Everything seems OK, so i run it another 150 miles until I need fuel. When I pull up to the pump and let it idle it dies. After refueling i start it up, and the light is off, and it runs OK all the way home.

Any ideas on what that might have bee?
 
#2 ·
teepee said:
750 Miles from home and the F1 light comes on. Everything seems OK, so i run it another 150 miles until I need fuel. When I pull up to the pump and let it idle it dies. After refueling i start it up, and the light is off, and it runs OK all the way home.

Any ideas on what that might have bee?
The only way to find out what caused it is to pull the stored code (if there is one) from the ECU memory. You do that by jumping two wires in a connector under the seat. The procedure is a bit complicated, but the Fuel System chapter in the service manual will walk you through it.

Stu
 
#4 ·
If you need the code list here it is:

Here is the list:

If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code.

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out (see Service Manual pages 5-8 to 5-10 for procedure). If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms .Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

...................

Engine cranks but won’t start
• No fuel in tank, • No fuel to injector, – Clogged fuel filter, – Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, – Pinched or clogged fuel tank breather tube, – Faulty fuel pump, – Faulty fuel pump circuits, • Intake air leak, • Contaminated / deteriorated fuel, • Faulty fuel injector, • Idle air control valve stuck closed, • No spark at plug Faulty ignition system

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Restricted fuel feed hose, • Contaminated/deteriorated fuel, • Intake air leak, • Faulty idle air control valve, • Restricted fuel tank breather tube, • Misadjusted idle adjusting screw, • Faulty ignition system

Afterburn when engine braking is used
• Faulty pulse secondary air injection (PAIR) system, – Faulty PAIR control solenoid valve, – Faulty PAIR check valve, – Clogged hose of the PAIR system, • Faulty ignition system

Backfiring or misfiring during acceleration
• Faulty ignition system

Poor performance drive-ability and poor fuel economy
• Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, • Faulty pressure regulator, • Faulty ignition system
 
#5 ·
Since the bike died when I came to a stop and let off the throttle, I will have to get the code some other way. It has not happened again, and I may just drop by the Honda dealership and see if they will check it out. I have the manual, and may try the above mentioned procedure myself.
 
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