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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
F1 light sometimes stays on. Sometimes it doesn't.
I counted the flashes and found my 2002 GL1800 has an O2 Sensor issue

I don't have an elaborate tool chest. I have performed some work on my bike with the small set of tools I have. I am pretty mechanical. I do have the GL1800 2002 Big Manual

Can one go purchase and perform the O2 Sensors oneself or is the work pretty difficult and just easier to bring to the Honda shop. If I bring to the shop, anyone have a guesstimate how much the sensors are and what a shop charges for the work?

Thanks All
Steve
 

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http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_secti...ry=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2002&fveh=3503

It looks like they are about $118 each and you need two. I have never changed these before but here is what the manual says:

REPLACEMENT
Remove the top shelter (page 2-11).
Disconnect the O2 sensor connector (page 2-18).
Remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe.
Install an new O2 sensor and tighten it.
Connect the O2 sensor connector (page 2-20).
Install the top shelter (page 2-12).

Seems to me there was a kit for sale that had both sensors and was cheaper. Maybe someone else will chime in.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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DING,DING,DING! Here is the kit. It was used on the 2001's service bulletin and these are the same sensors for the 2002.

HDL's price, it includes both sensors and a wire harness that you won't need.

SRVCE KIT,O2 SENSOR (36530-MCA-305 ) $167.21
 

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02 sensors

I had the same issue with my 01. I bought the kit and changed both of them. No special wrench needed. Took some looking to find them and the connectors are burried, but no technically difficult. The kit is for the 01 and includes a new harness and some instructions for changes they made in the harness ( cutting wires and folding others over, etc ). I think this was only for the 01 update, so I would check with a good goldwing tech to find out for sure. The kit saves you some money, but you probably won't need to use the new harness, just plug and play, so to speak.
Getting them out of the exhaust pipe is just an open end wrench, forget the size, but 17 or 19mm I would guess. Hope this helps.
 

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GL1800 Doctor
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Yes HDL=board sponsor and you will have to unplug the harnesses that are attached to the sensors and plug in the new ones. The sensors have the wires already attached to them. You can throw away the harness from the kit. Just stick that part number in the pricing box and it comes right up. I got the number from the service bulletin. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got it.
Just looked at removing the top shelter. :shrug:

I am going to call local shop and see if they will perform work if I purchase parts from HDL.

Thank you all very much
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am just concerned on pulling the top shelter off unless someone says it is not that hard. I just hate breaking lil snaps and trim holders. Fred did you have any issues with top shelter?

Thanks again
Steve
 

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O2 sensor replacement

Does anyone know if the new harness that comes with the kit is only for 2001 Wings, or other years too?

Thanx
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi McConnel,
If no one answers tonight, I will find out tomorrow at the time of purchase and let you know. I am convinced to do the whole thing myself and take pics or a mov of it.

BTW - Mine is a Black 2002 as well.

Thanks everyone!
Steve
 

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I am just concerned on pulling the top shelter off unless someone says it is not that hard. I just hate breaking lil snaps and trim holders. Fred did you have any issues with top shelter?

Thanks again
Steve
LOL Fred has his top shelter off more often than he changes socks.

prs
 

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Steve, the top shelter isn't any big deal to get off, just a lot of stuff to work through. Tedious, but not hard.
You need a 5mm hex tool, a t-handle prefered, a 6mm, a 10mm socket and a phillips screwdriver. A small flatblade screwdriver helps, too.

Take the seat off. 6mm hex on the bolts in the grab handles, pull the seat back until the front un-catches and pops up, then you can pull it off.
don't loose the black rubber thingies and the spacers that go in the sides of the seat.

Take the speaker grilles off. undo the 2 push pins, put them in the speaker grilles, out of harms way. undo the 2 5mm shoulder bolts, put them in the grilles too.
Lift the dash up from the rear. it is held on by rubber grommets, so there may be some resistance. It will pull up. take your little flat blade screwdriver, use it to release the clip that hold the display panel connection in front of the keyswitch. You need to stick it in between the plug and socket on the front side, it releases by pushing out (stupid arrangement)
Now you can take the dash off . Take the 2 trim strips off the side by pulling outward gently and releasing the little plastic clippy things. Be careful, they are delicate. If you have baker airwings, you should take them off now, before you take the trim off. Now you can see all the shoulder bolts. Take a piece of cardboard or foam, and put the bolts into it in the order you took them out. 2 rows, top to bottom, or bottom to top, whatever works. Take the 2 phillips screws out by the keyswitch. take the 2 10mm hex nuts off at the back of the shelter. Take the left pocket out. You should be able to follow the wire from the headlight / preload adj panel, and separate the connector. Remove panel, put it aside.(squeeze. hard. you'll hear / feel a click.) If you have fogs, there will be 2 wires to disconnect. take your key, open the right pocket. 2 pushpins, 2 screws. lift it up, you can see the release cable. Pop the green thingy out of the clip, and you can rotate the cable and slip it out of the holder. Put pocket and panel aside. I put the associated pins in the pocket, so I can find them when I need them. Lift the shelter up from the back. You can reach up under and unplug the antenna for the radio. Lift it a little higher, and you can reach the 2 plugs up near the front of the radio module. These release from the outside, a push in tab. the left one is on the left side, the right on on the right. Now you should be able to gently lift the shelter up and off. set it aside where it won't get damaged.
It goes back together pretty much the opposite. You might need to open the fuel door to position the well properly under the door.
Good luck!

=Dave=
 

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Consider changing the air filter once the shelter is off.

Also, time to adjust cruise control lag before you but the sheter back together. Just loose the adjusting nut and go for a ride. stop, tweak the nut with your finger, and try it again. Only takes a couple of times to get it perfect.
 

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Consider changing the air filter once the shelter is off.

Also, time to adjust cruise control lag before you but the sheter back together. Just loose the adjusting nut and go for a ride. stop, tweak the nut with your finger, and try it again. Only takes a couple of times to get it perfect.
You don't have to take it for a ride. You can do it in the comfort of your garage with the engine at idle. Just adjust the nut until rpm rises then tighten the locknut you're done.
 

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You'll need to wipe the ECM codes. I would short the service connector under the seat to confirm the FI code then wipe the codes before starting up the bike after replacing the 02 sensors.

To read the ECM memory of problem data, perform
the following:
Turn the ignition switch to “OFF.”
Remove the seat (page 2-5).
‘01 – ‘03:
Short the service check connector terminals with a​
jumper wire.
Turn the ignition switch to “ON.”
If the ECM has no problem data in its memory, the
MIL will come on and stay on.
If the ECM has problem data in its memory, the MIL
will start blinking.
Read and record how many times the MIL blinks,
and determine the cause of the problem (pages 5-13​
through 5-55).

SELF-DIAGNOSTIC MEMORY RESET
PROCEDURE​
Remove the seat (page 2-5).
Place the side stand down.​
‘01 – ‘03:​
1. Turn the ignition switch to “OFF.”
2. Short the service check connector terminals (3P
black connector with green and black leads) with
a jumper wire.
3. Turn the ignition switch to “ON.”
4. Remove the jumper wire from the service check​
connector.
5. The MIL will light for approximately 5 seconds.
While the MIL lights, short the service check connector
terminals again with the jumper wire. The
self-diagnostic memory is erased if the malfunction
indicator goes off and starts blinking.
• The service check connector must be jumped
while the MIL lights. If not, the MIL will not start
blinking.
• Note that the self-diagnostic memory cannot be
erased if the ignition switch is turned “OFF”
before the MIL starts blinking.
If the MIL blinks 33 times, the self-diagnostic​
memory has not been erased.
 
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