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Discussion Starter #1
Went out today to enjoy the calm before the storm. About 100 miles from home pulled out to pass a van, rolled on the throttle 50mph to about 80. When I looked down the FI light was on. Didn't seem to have any affect on performance. Stopped in the next little burg and put in some injector cleaner and topped off with gas. FI light reset but came back on after about 3 miles. Continued to run fine on the return trip. Thanks in advance for your help.

John

Sorry, the bike is an '03 with 25,000 miles.
 

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IronMan
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someone will chime in - theres a way to check light by counting blinks for cde i beleive - try google it or tech forum. good luck
 

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Checking FI Light

Take it for another ride and when the FI light comes on, pull over as soon as its safe to do so, keep the engine running, put it in neutral then put the side stand down. Watch the FI light closely as soon as you put the stand down as it will flash the code for you. It will start with any long flashes first then it will flash the short flashes. Each long flash is equal to 10 and each short flash is equal to 1. For example: one long flash and three shorts is a code of 13, two long flashes and five short flashes equals a code of 25. You can then go to your shop manual (you do have one don't you?) and find out what your code means and how to diagnose it. If you don't have a manual let us know the code and we can look it up for you. Good luck. That is the easy way to check the code, the other method involves removing the seat and the rest depends on the year of you bike. Good luck and let us know how you make out. Reg
 

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If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code.

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms .Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch
 

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Vendor
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Year and mileage ??? If you have a Service Manual, you may want to look at the other ways of pulling a code.
 

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Year and mileage ??? If you have a Service Manual, you may want to look at the other ways of pulling a code.
The average motorcycle owner is not going to run out and purchase expensive diagnostic equipment.

There is really no need to do so.

What the O/P describes I will bet it is an O2 sensor, and other than running a bit rich it is no emergency until it can be determined which one and replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
More Info to digest

Sorry Guys, the bike is an'03 with 25,000 miles. We're getting covered up with snow again this morning.
 

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Vendor
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The average motorcycle owner is not going to run out and purchase expensive diagnostic equipment.

There is really no need to do so.
Sorry Guys, the bike is an'03 with 25,000 miles.
Sorry Oldbike-er, it looks like Kit assumes you cannot afford a small jumper wire. Hopefully, you can and have a Service Manual. In the PGM-FI section it shows how to pull a stored code with one.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FI Light Update

26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

Checked it out today & this was the report. Will it hurt to ride it til I can fix it? Thanks.
 

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Registered
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left knock sensor

Others with more knowledge will probably chime in here with more info but I think as long as the FI light is on steady and not blinking you are good to go. My 03 with only 8000 miles was doing the same thing except it was code 25 which is right knock sensor. I rode it for more than 1000 miles before I got around to diagnosing it. The first step you need to do is check that the wire lead to the left knock sensor is properly connected and a good clean connection. Also make sure the knock sensor is in tight. If that does not remedy things the next step is to borrow a knock sensor from a buddy's bike to try it in yours. If its not the knock sensor the next step is to remove the top shelter and do a continuity check on the left knock sensor lead. If that checks out OK then the only thing left is to replace the ECM. That puppy is about $700 smackers from Honda, I was lucky enough to find a new one on E-Bay for $300. There are lots of used ones starting as little as $200. Do you have a shop manual? If not, and if you plan to do this yourself, you will need one. The manual explains everything in great detail and if you have any mechanical skills at all, you can follow the instructions in the manual and do this yourself and save hundreds in labour. Let us know if you have a manual. Regards Reg
 

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Maybe I'll call this week knock sensor week. 3 for me.

Wayne
 
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