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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm riding someone else’s 2004 to consider buying it. The FI light came on after taking it up to about 100 mph and then back down. It stayed on until I got off an exit ramp and turned the ignition off and back on.

When the ignition was turned back on, the light was out and then stayed out for the 5 miles or so until I got it home.

I don't have an 1800 and my 1500 has no FI indicator, so I'm not familiar with it. The owners manual says that it needs serviced.

Can someone tell me what the cause could be and what may be the consequence?
 

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UP late too !!! OK just a guess 100mph you were probable WTFO!!! (wide ^%$$## open) MAYBEE?? the ECM (computer ) "felt/ sensed(???) to much restriction ??(dirty air filter)..how much has it been driven lately..stale gas??.. Has it had sparkplugs?? I know on a car sometimes a loose gas cap will trip the ECM....A2004 is still eligible for a extended warenty..( there is a rumour of a SALE coming up soon) ....chuck
 

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Souds like it is time for the present owner to take it to the dealer and have them take a look at it. Hopefully they will be able to hook it to a computer and get a reading on it. Maybe a bad oxygen sensor or one of many different things. When mine did it, it was raining and I had a faulty electrical connection up under the cowling. My dealer found it in about one hour.
 

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Here is info on the Fault Indicator codes and what they mean. As you can see it could have been a number of things.

If FI (Fault Indicator) light comes on pull over but DO NOT shut bike off. Put in neutral and put side stand down, RPM’s below 1500. This signals the ECM to send the error code to the FI light. Count the number of long and short flashes. This will give you the error code. Also known as Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL)

If you shut the bike off the error code is lost - sort of. It will be retained in the ECM but it is harder to get out. If the bike stops and the will not restart you can get the FI light to flash the error code by cranking the engine for 10 seconds. The FI light will then flash the error code.

Long Blink = 10 Short Blink = 1
i.e. long long long short short short = 33 check error code 33

Number of MIL blinks .Symptoms
.Cause

0 No blinks • Engine does not start

• Open circuit in the power input and ground wires of the ECM: • Faulty bank angle sensor
• Open circuit in bank angle sensor related wires: • Faulty FI IGN relay: • Open circuit in FI IGN relay related wires
• Faulty engine stop switch: • Open circuit in engine stop switch related wires: • Faulty ECM: • Blown FI IGN fuse (20 A)
• Blown ST. KILL fuse (10 A):

0 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty combination meter: • Faulty ECM


0 Stays lit • Engine operates normally
• Short circuit in service check connector wire: • Short circuit in MIL wire: • Faulty ECM


1 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected MAP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in MAP sensor wire: • Faulty MAP sensor


7 Blinks • Hard to start at a low temperature (ECM controls using preset value; coolant temperature: 85° C/185° F)
• Loose or poorly connected ECT sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in ECT sensor wire: • Faulty ECT sensor


8 Blinks • Poor engine response when operating the throttle quickly (ECM controls using preset value; throttle opening: 0° )
• Loose or poorly connected TP sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty TP sensor


9 Blinks • Engine operates normally (ECM controls using preset value; intake air temperature: 28° C/82° F)
• Loose or poorly connected IAT sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in TP sensor wire: • Faulty IAT sensor


10 Blinks • Engine operates normally at low altitude
• Engine idles roughly at a high altitude (ECM controls using preset value; barometric pressure: 760 mm Hg/1,013 hPa)
• Loose or poorly connected BARO sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in BARO sensor wire: • Faulty BARO sensor


11 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected vehicle speed sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in vehicle speed sensor wire: • Faulty vehicle speed sensor


12 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 1 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 1 injector wire: • Faulty No. 1 injector


13 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 2 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 2 injector wire: • Faulty No. 2 injector


14 No blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 3 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 3 injector wire: • Faulty No. 3 injector


15 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 4 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 4 injector wire: • Faulty No. 4 injector



16 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 5 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 5 injector wire: • Faulty No. 5 injector


17 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected No. 6 injector connector: • Open or short circuit in No. 6 injector wire: • Faulty No. 6 injector


18 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected camshaft position sensor connector
• Open or short circuit in camshaft position sensor wire: • Faulty camshaft position sensor


19 Blinks • Engine does not start
• Loose or poorly connected ignition pulse generator connector:
• Open or short circuit in ignition pulse generator wire: • Faulty ignition pulse generator


21 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


22 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


23 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in right O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty right O2 sensor


24 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Open or short circuit in left O2 sensor heater wire: • Faulty left O2 sensor


25 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected right knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in right knock sensor wire: • Faulty right knock sensor


26 Blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected left knock sensor connector: • Open or short circuit in left knock sensor wire: • Faulty left knock sensor

29 Blinks • Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Loose or poorly connected idle air control (IAC) valve connector: • Open or short circuit in IAC valve wire: • Faulty idle air control valve


33 Blinks • ECM does not hold the self diagnostic data
• Faulty E2-PROM in ECM • Engine operates normally


41 No blinks • Engine operates normally
• Loose or poorly connected connector in gear position switch related circuits
• Open or short circuit in gear position switch wires: • Faulty gear position switch: • Faulty clutch switch: • Faulty side stand switch

...................

Engine cranks but won’t start
• No fuel in tank, • No fuel to injector, – Clogged fuel filter, – Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, – Pinched or clogged fuel tank breather tube, – Faulty fuel pump, – Faulty fuel pump circuits, • Intake air leak, • Contaminated / deteriorated fuel, • Faulty fuel injector, • Idle air control valve stuck closed, • No spark at plug Faulty ignition system

Engine stalls, hard to start, rough idling
• Restricted fuel feed hose, • Contaminated/deteriorated fuel, • Intake air leak, • Faulty idle air control valve, • Restricted fuel tank breather tube, • Misadjusted idle adjusting screw, • Faulty ignition system

Afterburn when engine braking is used
• Faulty pulse secondary air injection (PAIR) system, – Faulty PAIR control solenoid valve, – Faulty PAIR check valve, – Clogged hose of the PAIR system, • Faulty ignition system

Backfiring or misfiring during acceleration
• Faulty ignition system

Poor performance drive-ability and poor fuel economy
• Pinched or clogged fuel feed hose, • Faulty pressure regulator, • Faulty ignition system
 

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Tell the current owner he has a problem and no deal until it's fixed. There's nothing worse than buying someone elses problem. The GL1800 is a sweet ride as long as it is working right. :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
bangladave,

That's good info. Thanks for the help. I've saved it as a MS Word doc and printed it to insert in the owner's manual. Sounds like it could be many things and now that is extiguished, it can only be retrieved by a dealer.

I'll have this bike for a few more days. Maybe I can bring it up to 100+ MPH again to cause it to come on and then read it from the display.

The current owner says that he's never seen te FI light come on before. I believe him, I have no reason to suspect that he is lying. He did say the the speedo displays 5 MPH slow, so I guess that I only need 95 + MPH :)

Ross,

I'm considering trading my 94 SE for this 04. The current owner wants to go back to a 1500 and also to get rid of the payments. The 04 has 25,000 miles and is a rare magenta color. Nice bike if the trade price turns out to be acceptable.
 

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Bill, you will love the 1800.

The speedo usually reads on the fast side. At 100 MPH on speedo you were in the 94-96 range of actual MPH. This really ticks some folks off! BTW--the speedo on my '92 Aspy was dead-on.

Love your mic-mutes. You will need them on the 1800.

Good luck :)

Dwight
 

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Bill,

The fault that caused the light to trigger will be stored in the ECM and the dealer can read it and tell you what triggered it. If I were serious about the bike, I would ask to have it taken to a dealer and have him pull off the fault codes and tell you what they called out.

It is impossible to guess the cause without knowing more info and/or looking at the bike.

My gut feeling tells me it probably is not anything catastrophic, and is likely a loose connector on a sensor somewhere.
 
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