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Discussion Starter #1
Filler looked like 16 or 17mm, (like the drain bolt) but now it fits in between. The 17 wrench is starting to round it.
Is it non-metric?
 

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17mm is correct. 6-point box end wrench is preferred. Order a replacement AND a spare for when one breaks like mine did the last time I tried to remove it. Also, break it loose before pulling the drain plug. If it is stuck, you won't be sitting there with a drained final drive and no way to fill 'er up.


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Discussion Starter #4
OK. DONE.

Went out & got a new 6 point box. Bolt was almost too rounded without having to go IMPACT.
That's by far the softest bolt I've had to deal with on the Wing.

Also ordered a couple of spares and o rings for when (not if) it happens again.

Thanks, all.
 

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Here is what they look like snapped half into! Mine from a month or so back. My "spare" was in my spare final drive. Will own another before I touch it again.



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17mm is correct. 6-point box end wrench is preferred. Order a replacement AND a spare for when one breaks like mine did the last time I tried to remove it. Also, break it loose before pulling the drain plug. If it is stuck, you won't be sitting there with a drained final drive and no way to fill 'er up.


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Actually if you already drained it and then couldn't get the fill cap undone you could fill it like you do a lower unit on an outboard motor.Shoot it in the drain hole.
 

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To prevent the final drive fill bolt from braking the collar off, all you have to do is scribe a line across the end of the collar and the final drive case itself facing the rear, so you could see the line.

Use a nail, a scribe or a dentist's pick, whatever. I prefer to use a sharp nail instead of a pencil or felt pen as the scribed line will be there as long as you own the bike.

After you've filled the final drive with the desired oil and amount, all you have to do is tighten the filler bolt to match the line that you've scribed before removing the bolt.

You'll never break the collar again.
 

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The rubber O-ring is the seal. Snug it, don't torque, like you would an oil filter. Pancake the O-ring until the outside shoulder of the plug binds on the housing and trouble will follow. Just my experience.


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Tool to remove

I know this is an old thread...helps to know I'm not the only one with the problem. I don't remember really :oops:tightening the cap any of the past 5-6 times I changed final drive fluid, but this time, my 12-point 17mm wrench slipped badly...and badly...and badly. Tried to buy a 6 point but couldn't find one (no Sears close), so figured I would buy a replacement anyway, try the Crescent, or the vise grips, or the water pump pliers, or...now what?

Buggered beyond recognition (almost), replacements on the way, but I still need a way to remove this one....IDEAS?
 

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If it were me, I would take a sharp point chisel and dimple it about the 3:00 position near where the o-ring would be under the dimple. Then aim the chisel upward about 45 degrees and gently tap, tap, tap. If you have not already drained the oil, leave it be until the new one arrives. Did you order 2 new caps so you will have a spare? You know, if you have a spare on hand, this will never happen to you again, right? And get a 6-point socket for this AND the oil drain plug!


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I have removed many stuck screws with a hammer and a punch. Find location that will afford you room to swig the hammer. Get a good center punch a tap on the head of the stuck screw or bolt with the hammer ad punch in the loosening direction.
Depending on how buggered the head is you may have to file a flat on the head to get a good surface for the punch.
 

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Thanks. Chisel or punch...the hammer part I like!!:lol:

yes, I ordered 2 caps, getting a 6-point wrench, and, since I will have a spare, never expect it to happen again. But then, this is my 3rd Wing and 1st time it's happened, so who knows?:shrug:
 
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