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Vendor
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Discussion Starter #1
For anyone interested. I copied this from another forum. Apparently the guy is from Poland.

Hello dear friends. I make new finale driven gears 20% fast to original. Motorcyclec move better 800 r/min less (160m/h = 4000 r/min)
Differential is tested and good working no noises
Details information contact to me

Best regards
Roman
 

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IronMan
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Did you call / talk to him or someone that has tried ? Is it big job "changing " gears . Not just whole final ?
 

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That would definitely be a "grand" finale...if you could get a 'Wing to 160 m/hr that is.

Even more so @ 4,000rpm
 

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Faster, but most likely with less torque.
 

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IronMan
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WHAT ABOUT GAS MILEAGE ? BE BIG BONUS ! COULD RIDE TO "BFE" AND NOT RUN OUT OF GAS ! :grin2:
 

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Final drive gearing

People here have tried larger rear tires and found no improvement in gas mileage or top speed. I can certainly see the appeal of dropping a few hundred RPMs at cruising speed though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Did you call / talk to him or someone that has tried ? Is it big job "changing " gears . Not just whole final ?
I know nothing more than what was posted.
 

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Cutting hypoid gears is NOT in any way, shape or form a simple or easy process. For that reason alone I'd be very circumspect about this. Not that it can't be done; but the tooling and set-up for producing this type of a gear set would be prohibitive unless you had some serious volume to cover these costs. In a nutshell, caveat emptor!
 

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IronMan
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I USED TO HAVE A 550/4 HONDA AND CHANGED REAR GEAR ( CHAIN DRIVE ) RAN 120 MILES A DAY FOR WORK - ALL INTERSTATE - DROPPED RPMS QUITE A BIT AND I HAD FULL FARING WITH EXTRA LIGHTS AND IF I DIDNT RUN IN 4 TH GEAR THE 5 MILES ( AT NITE) IT WOULDNT CHARGE BATTERY. :surprise::frown2:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I USED TO HAVE A 550/4 HONDA AND CHANGED REAR GEAR ( CHAIN DRIVE ) RAN 120 MILES A DAY FOR WORK - ALL INTERSTATE - DROPPED RPMS QUITE A BIT AND I HAD FULL FARING WITH EXTRA LIGHTS AND IF I DIDNT RUN IN 4 TH GEAR THE 5 MILES ( AT NITE) IT WOULDNT CHARGE BATTERY. :surprise::frown2:
Interesting ... you're probably describing an alternator that is not spinning fast enough to handle the excessive draw your aftermarket lights require, as well as everything else required to run you m/c. Down shifting can increase your RPMs to where your alternator is on the + side of the amps. In 5th, you would have been on the - side of amps, which means that the drain is borrowing current from the battery faster than the alternator can put current back in.

Basically, you were overworking your charging system. Also, you probably didn't even have an alternator ... you had a .... can't even remember what those types of charging units were called.
 

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IronMan
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Interesting ... you're probably describing an alternator that is not spinning fast enough to handle the excessive draw your aftermarket lights require, as well as everything else required to run you m/c. Down shifting can increase your RPMs to where your alternator is on the + side of the amps. In 5th, you would have been on the - side of amps, which means that the drain is borrowing current from the battery faster than the alternator can put current back in.

Basically, you were overworking your charging system. Also, you probably didn't even have an alternator ... you had a .... can't even remember what those types of charging units were called.
YA THAT WAS OVER 40 YRS AGO :surprise: WHAT I REMEMBER NEEDED TO BE OVER 3000 TO CHARGE AND IN 5 TH WASNT NEAR THERE . I WORKED MIDNIGHT SHIFT SO I LEARNED QUICK TO PUT IN 4 TH LAST FEW MILES . DURING DAY HAD NO ISSUES . TRYING TO REMEMBER IF HEADLIGHT STAYED ON "WAY " BACK THEN :grin2:
 
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