GL1800Riders Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
In MayI purchased a one owner 2001 wing with 11,000 miles. It is in showroom condition. My wife complained on the ride home from the dealer of how bumpy it was. (which made me about half mad) Based on what I had heard about the ride Gold Winger's claim (after coming out of denial) I admitted it rode very rough compared to my VTX1300 . After new tires, 2006 rear shocks installed, and dropping the air in the front to 35 psi, with no resolve, I decided to turn to this forum for help. After reading most of the posts on bumpy rides and anti-dive stuff, I printed out 20 pages and took them to my Honda service man. He had never heard of the anti-dive problem but when he sat on the bike and couldn't get the forks to move down at all he asked for the printouts.
The GOOD NEWS is after we shimmed the mechanism with a washer, I now have a completely new ride!! My wife is happy and I am delighted.
Thanks to Fred and all others who post here and for the detailed instruction that helped us have a new ride.
John
p.s. the dealer I bought it from (Heritage Honda in Flemingsburg, KY) did not charge me for the things I mentioned above. I thought they went way over and above what I expected on a used bike purchase.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,768 Posts
Seems like FIXING the anti-dive mechanism would be the thing to do...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,550 Posts
joe_flash said:
Seems like FIXING the anti-dive mechanism would be the thing to do...
Yup, in my opinion, the dealer didn't do you any favors by bypassing a factory installed device.

I'd have him replace the anti dive valve or at least replace the o-rings in the existing one.

Or, rebuild it yourself....

Look at this thread for info on the proper o-ring to use.

http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/view ... ight=oring
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,093 Posts
Well; here is yet another opinion. I believe the best "fix" is to eliminate the anti-dive from the bike. The shim technique described by Fred (at least the one I am familiar with) does not eliminate the antidive, it just lessens the pre-load on the actuator pin, buy using a thin shim to effectively decreae teh length of the center pin. That fix gives a softer ride to a normally working AD unit. A stuck AD unit is different. If your mechanic used washers thick enough to seperate the lower unit enough from the uppper unit so that the center pin can not enter the lower unit, then you are OK. That would be a pretty thick set of shims. Some of us cut the actuator pin off of the upper unit. If you replace teh O rings or replace the whole fork leg, the problem will just come back sooner or later.

prs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,550 Posts
PRS,

I don't understand the idea of "giving a softer ride to a normally operating antidive unit"

My understanding of the antidive is that it shouldn't do anything at all while riding normally (not braking) and it should stop fork dive under braking situations.

So, if that's the case, there should be no improvement in ride at all by disabling the AD unit unless it was stuck, in which case the improvement would simply be a return to how the ride would normally be with a properly functioning AD unit. Right?

Now in a braking situation, at least on my bike, I found that without the antidive in place, I can fairly easily brake hard enough to bottom out the front fork. Granted, this is no stiffer than if the anti dive had locked the fork but the height of the front of the bike during braking is definitely different (higher). By not letting the front of the bike drop so much, I would think that the geometry of the suspension would not be as drastically changed (a good thing) and the transfer of weight off the back wheel would be lessened slightly (another good thing). Also, isn't it better for the front fork if it isn't bottomed out whenever hard braking is done?

Not picking on your post. Rather, I am questioning my own decision to put the anti dive back into operation after trying the bike without it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,792 Posts
I would have it fixed on warranty but I would never pay to have the AD fixed. I disabled mine, put new springs in and don't miss it at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,367 Posts
Traxxion..............that'll fix it good! 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,349 Posts
I think disableing the device is the best thing to do. NO WAY would I want a stiff suspension coming into a corner and hit a bunch of bumps causing the front to skip. I want my suspension to actually work and absorb the bumps. That anti-dive is crap IMO. This is where I really agree with TRAXXION. If HONDA would have put a decent suspension on the bike in the first place they would have never "needed" the anti-dive. It's a band-aid fix for a larger problem.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,367 Posts
Hi there, Jcswing,

If your anti-dive was "really" stuck, which some get that way, you would want to make sure it was unstuck, AND then shim it to get the best effect. I have seen some people make a spacer which is thicker than the throw of the hydraulic unit. That is a decent cure.

Cutting the pin off is good too.

Another one would be to take the guts out of the antidive unit, and just put the housing back together.

Whitewing,

Bypassing mechanical systems on motorcycles is what motorcycle owners and motorcycle mechanics get out of bed to do everyday!

Who wants a bone stock bike?

:lol: :lol:

There are a few.. :wink:
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,367 Posts
White Wing said:
PRS,


So, if that's the case, there should be no improvement in ride at all by disabling the AD unit unless it was stuck, in which case the improvement would simply be a return to how the ride would normally be with a properly functioning AD unit. Right?
That bike would not be functioning any differently if you shimmed the brake portion, and the hydraulic portion stayed stuck. His was obviously intermitent. When you disable shim the brake portion away, a few good bumps on the forks is all it takes to knock the hydraulic valve open and it will then not bother you any more.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,367 Posts
White Wing said:
Now in a braking situation, at least on my bike, I found that without the antidive in place, I can fairly easily brake hard enough to bottom out the front fork. Granted, this is no stiffer than if the anti dive had locked the fork but the height of the front of the bike during braking is definitely different (higher). By not letting the front of the bike drop so much, I would think that the geometry of the suspension would not be as drastically changed (a good thing) and the transfer of weight off the back wheel would be lessened slightly (another good thing). Also, isn't it better for the front fork if it isn't bottomed out whenever hard braking is done?
Without the antidive, if you have found that you can make the bike bottom (easier than stock), then you must wonder why Honda puts a hydraulic lock on the fork instead of giving it more spring rate and proper compression damping. The AD is a band aid for a poorly functioning fork.

You do have a few things backwards. Dive in the front of the bike HELPS the bike steer into a turn. This is desireable, and makes a 900lb beast feel lighter to steer.

Not transferring the weight of the GL onto the front tire is a BAD thing. This causes front wheel skids under panic braking. EVERY kind of motor vehicle benefits from a noticeable front end weight transfer under braking. You want as much weight as you can possibly apply to the front tire for traction (ever see a 400lb Superbike stopping from 200mph to 80mph with the back wheel floating in the air and just barely skimming the track? They do that on purpose... ALL of the weight is on the front wheel). This is why your the front of your car dips when you mash the brakes. This is why you have two giant brakes on the front of your bike, and one little one in the back.

You are correct that it is bad to have the bike bottomed out while braking. Then the only thing left to absorb bumps is your tire. In the case of the GL, when the brakes are applied, you have a form of hydraulic lock from the anti-dive, which is the harshness everyone complains about. This is NOT good, because whatever suspension you did have left, is now locked up and ineffective.

At a minimum, ever single GL owner in the world should buy a set of fork springs and diable the anti-dive. This extremely low cost upgrade makes a world of difference in both ride quality and safety.

:wink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,550 Posts
Max,

Good answer(s)! Thanks.

heading off to ponder...........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,367 Posts
At a minimum, ever single GL owner in the world should buy a set of fork springs and diable the anti-dive. This extremely low cost upgrade makes a world of difference in both ride quality and safety.
And at best.....just put in the high quality, custom designed and machined Traxxion cartridge and springs. It really makes a world of difference. It's exactly what the GL is missing up front. No AD necessary!! 8)
 
G

·
Best move ever was to dissable the anti-dive.
I know I will never own a GL with it in the opps possition, couldn't be more pleased with the ride.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
2,367 Posts
Are you really in Malaysia?!?!?! :shock: With your wing?!?!?! :shock:

Now that's a long ride... :lol:

We can ship you a set, but we are working on an installation video for DoItYourselfers, or in your case, someone who is in another country.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top