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Hello, all.

I'm thinking of installing a fork brace and firmer fork springs in my new Wing. I'm trying to reduce fork flex at slow speeds, and reduce the sharp jarring I feel from the little bumps. At the same time, I don't feel the ride is any WORSE when the front brakes are ON. So, should I disable the anti-dive or not?

I'm tending to think NOT, because for me personally, the forks don't feel WORSE with the brakes on. To me, the front end ALWAYS feels sort of sharp and jarring on little bumps and a bit overwhelmed on bigger bumps. I don't ride that fast. I do use my front brakes, but with a firm, progressive squeeze.

What do you think?
 

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Definitely disable the ADV. I have stiffer springs 1.2 kg/mm and everything is smoother without the ADV.
 

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You can easily decide to disable or not. Just unbolt the unit from the fork, throw a zip tie to keep it on the outside portion of the fork and to keep it from banging around or getting caught in the wheel and go for a ride. If the ride improves you have answered your own question. Service the anti-dive valve or disable it. If you can't tell, then you need to look else where to find the ride issues... the only way to nearly eliminate fork flex is to replace the triple tree. A fork brace sorta helps a little, but is not the solution to the GL's noodle forks.
 

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I have progressive fork springs. My bike has 105K on it and the ADV still works fine,Stops the bike level as is was designed to do too.

I'm a late brake'r, The nose dive was ridiculous with a plastic spacer in the ADV.So I yanked it out.

My bike rides smooth when I brake too.
 

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... should I disable the anti-dive or not?

I'm tending to think NOT, because for me personally, the forks don't feel WORSE with the brakes on.
That's the wrong way around. The anti-dive does nothing when you are not braking so the suspension should be supple. When braking it effectively locks the left fork so the ride will deteriorate.

To me, the front end ALWAYS feels sort of sharp and jarring on little bumps and a bit overwhelmed on bigger bumps.
Imho, the wing is not as silky smooth as some folk would have you believe.

What do you think?
If you feel no difference with the brake on or off, ride over some bumpy ground and look through the space down at the forks to see whether the suspension is working vigorously. You should clearly be able to see the forks working. Take care not to fall off when taking your eyes off the road!
If your suspension appears stiff or not working at all, do what Larry suggested.
 

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You can easily decide to disable or not. Just unbolt the unit from the fork, throw a zip tie to keep it on the outside portion of the fork and to keep it from banging around or getting caught in the wheel and go for a ride. If the ride improves you have answered your own question. Service the anti-dive valve or disable it. If you can't tell, then you need to look else where to find the ride issues... the only way to nearly eliminate fork flex is to replace the triple tree. A fork brace sorta helps a little, but is not the solution to the GL's noodle forks.​
I have progressive fork springs. My bike has 105K on it and the ADV still works fine,Stops the bike level as is was designed to do too.

I'm a late brake'r, The nose dive was ridiculous with a plastic spacer in the ADV.So I yanked it out.

My bike rides smooth when I brake too.
Your my heros Larry and Rocky!... two of the best pieces of information passed on this board in a long time
 

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I personally want to keep my ADV working. I don't care if the front suppension does get stiffer under hard braking. The reason, my wife rides with me through the twisties and we do tend to get in a hurry. That means a lot of late braking. My Harley doesn't have anti-dive and every time I get on the brakes hard the nose dives and my wife ends up sliding up against me hard with our helmets banging together. Because of the ADV, the Wing stays level and she doesn't slide up agaist me. I have a new ADV, it came with my new left fork slider. The old one was still working with 78k on it, hopefully this one will last just as long.
 

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Hello, all.

I'm thinking of installing a fork brace and firmer fork springs in my new Wing. I'm trying to reduce fork flex at slow speeds, and reduce the sharp jarring I feel from the little bumps. At the same time, I don't feel the ride is any WORSE when the front brakes are ON. So, should I disable the anti-dive or not?

I'm tending to think NOT, because for me personally, the forks don't feel WORSE with the brakes on. To me, the front end ALWAYS feels sort of sharp and jarring on little bumps and a bit overwhelmed on bigger bumps. I don't ride that fast. I do use my front brakes, but with a firm, progressive squeeze.

What do you think?
When I got springs, I tested the bike with ADV working, and disabled. I had no problems either way, and decided to leave it enabled.

When the ADV is working properly, I think it's fine. When it's sticking, not so much.
 

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Station Break!

I personally want to keep my ADV working. I don't care if the front suppension does get stiffer under hard braking. The reason, my wife rides with me through the twisties and we do tend to get in a hurry. That means a lot of late braking. My Harley doesn't have anti-dive and every time I get on the brakes hard the nose dives and my wife ends up sliding up against me hard with our helmets banging together. Because of the ADV, the Wing stays level and she doesn't slide up agaist me. I have a new ADV, it came with my new left fork slider. The old one was still working with 78k on it, hopefully this one will last just as long.
Sorry folks, I just can't resist.:twisted:

Having the wife "sliding up against me hard" ... and "banging together" - Some of us would consider this a great feature, not a defect. DIVE IN!

Thread jack over. We now return you to your regular scheduled programming.

I am going to try the temp disconnect of the ADV and see what happens. It is a dirt cheap test. I am not the first owner of this Wing, so for now, I am assuming everything in my front end is stock. My ride seems to vary from just-so-so to harsh and then back to just-so-so.
 

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Sorry folks, I just can't resist.:twisted:

Having the wife "sliding up against me hard" ... and "banging together" - Some of us would consider this a great feature, not a defect. DIVE IN!

Thread jack over. We now return you to your regular scheduled programming.

I am going to try the temp disconnect of the ADV and see what happens. It is a dirt cheap test. I am not the first owner of this Wing, so for now, I am assuming everything in my front end is stock. My ride seems to vary from just-so-so to harsh and then back to just-so-so.


Don't resist, life need a little humor in it. If it was anywhere else but on a bike at speed, it would be a "great feature".:lol:
 

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Anti-Dive Test

My test ride is done and all I can say is, OMG! I just fixed (sorta) a problem that I did not know that I had. Thanks to OP for starting this thread!

When I bought this bike it seemed to ride a little bit stiffer than the 2012 unit we test drove. But then Honda claims they upgraded the front end for 2012. That super, nice, smooth test ride on the demo bike was what caused my honey to TELL me to buy a Wing! Thank you, honey.:bow: All that I asked her was, "What color do you want?"

Going back and forth to work I began to realize that some bumps were not always the same. If I hit the brakes and slow down first, releasing brakes before the bump, the bump might be harsh, other times not. ??? When I started really paying attention I could tell that the stiff ride might last for several blocks after applying the brakes.

Then we were 2-up, playing around on the back roads. Set my Nav up for "Shortest" route to a place that there we no main roads from where we were. It can be fun to see where Nav tries to take us. When I come to a fork in the road, take the road less traveled and see where the re-route ends up. This always seems to get a "little gravel in my travel". Fun stuff! Last weekend we rounded a back roads curve and, oops, pavement ends - right now, right here! Brake hard to slow down before getting on a loose gravel washboard. The boards were about 45 degrees to the path of the road. Here is where I really knew that the front was riding like a brick. After a few miles of this we figured out why the lady inside the Nav unit kept telling us to make a u-turn. Nothing down these roads crosses the creek. We turned around at the last cattle guard before the muddy road into a field full of cows. (Heard this in my ear, "Honey, on the VTX you would keep going." She's right.)

After a smoke break and glancing at the map, we found no choice out but to ride the wash board again. So much different! The front end was a lot better at handling the rough stuff. :confused:

Friday night I pulled the top on the anti-dive and added two small O-rings between the two halves. A "trick" found on Google that sent me to another Wing board not to be named here.:roll: Cost was $1.08 plus tax at the auto parts store. As I understand it, the O-rings add some up or return pressure to the piston, giving it less effect on the valve below - and helps make sure the piston returns to the top when brakes are released. (I think that a very slow return was my issue.) From there I verified same tire pressure and rear pre-load as last week. Nothing was changed except the O-rings added.

Yesterday was 250 miles of back roads riding on a very different bike! OMG (again).

Now all I have to do is decide if I am leaving just like it is or replace a sticking anti-dive valve. For now, option one is where I am at. I wonder, will not slamming my front tire into hard bumps help with tire wear? Save fork seals? Void a warranty I do not have? Get me sued? Cause nightmares?:shrug:

For the record, the O-rings are close to this suggestion, not exactly, but very close. "The first ‘O’ ring dimension - 1.8mm (0.070”)in section x 5mm (0.196”) bore x 8.5mm(0.334”) O/D and the Second ’O’ ring dimension - 1.8mm(0.070”) in section x 6mm(0.236”) bore x 10mm(0.393”) O/D, both black silicone rubber. The smallest ‘O’ ring sits on the 5mm pin without friction and the larger ‘O’ ring sits in the recess on top of the anti dive actuator, one on top of the other when assembled. Note: when putting the two units back together be sure the ‘O’ rings are still in place. This gives a slightly slower anti dive reaction under very light braking. I favor this fix."

If you think you have a problem, try it. Easy enough to un-do.

I am out-of-here. More testing on back roads to do today!
 

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suspension

When I got springs, I tested the bike with ADV working, and disabled. I had no problems either way, and decided to leave it enabled.

When the ADV is working properly, I think it's fine. When it's sticking, not so much.
Tryker,

I thought that you had the Gold Valves too.

Richard
 

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I prefer the ride with the antidive deactivated. Actually with Traxxion I think you have to deactivate it
 

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With the OEM or Progressive springs
(nearly the same thing)
leaving the ADV as designed is the best option otherwise the front end will nosedive as they are too weak to adequately support the weight shift.

But, IF you upgrade to firmer front springs,
then disabling the ADV is much preferred if you like your "sport/touring" Goldwing to be more "sporty" than "toury".

Dennis
 

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Replacing the stock front springs with stiffer/better springs should eliminate the NEED for the antidive valve. However, i make no claim to be very knowledgable about suspension systems.
But the racetech front fork rebuild that i had done works much better than the stock setup did.
 

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i have Traxxion springs and cut off antidive valve, wow it works waaay better than stock !!!:thumbup:
 
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Removing the ADV will provide 98% actual improvement and only 2% imaginary as opposed to all other mods which go the other way. The fork brace is an exception - it will be 100% imaginary, but the visual ride improvement is insane! :lol:
 

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That's the wrong way around. The anti-dive does nothing when you are not braking so the suspension should be supple.
I can't help but giggle. I just WISH that had been true on my GoldWing. And I'm talking about brand new driving off the dealer property.

Can I get a "Hey Now"?

Removing the ADV will provide 98% actual improvement and only 2% imaginary as opposed to all other mods which go the other way. The fork brace is an exception - it will be 100% imaginary, but the visual ride improvement is insane! :lol:
I think the problem with the fork brace is that the difference is felt mostly at slow/parking lot speeds. With the new triple clamps from Traxxion, it's amazingly more stable at speed. It's incredibly noticeable.
 
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One thing not normally considered - Leaving the ADV intact it will surely fail which is the case 100% of the time. But the extra stiffness and jolting can serve as an economical replacement for Viagra and that device tucked away in the nightstand :oops:
 
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