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Discussion Starter #1
I was ready to ride, but my key seemed not to be where I left it. I got my spare key and the key turned on (3 blinks on the fob), but the bike’s ignition switch knob did not light. Bike seemed totally dead. Side bags, trunk, and right side pocket refuse to open too. The non-functional fob’s led flashes quickly 2 times when the ignition switch knob is turned clockwise. Battery tested good, cables tight, kind of a puzzle. I am not 100% sure, but I believe the errant fob is the “spare” and not the “original”.

I searched for and found my “lost” probably original smart key. I have often have used either fob. The found key functioned with the bike normally. Everything works with that “good” fob. So I rode, thinking I would change the smart key batteries later. Well later came and I noticed the battery in the errant fob read 3.2V, same as the good fob. The new battery for each read 3.2V too.

Reading through the trouble shooting section in the Honda Service Manual me conclude that the errant fob is broken. Solution is to program a new key. There is a huge list of things to check, but none that I noticed explains why one fob works while the other does not. Maybe tomorrow I will try starting using the emergency code for both fobs.

Any ideas from the forum? I will copy this to Jessie at Schroaders to see what they suggest. I expect I will have to buy a new fob and that it will be 3 out of four possible fobs my Smart Key module will accept.

prs
 

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Following. Tried both my fobs to verify. Still good here.
 

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So far my two fobs are OK....following.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jessie Schroader has offered to help. Their dealership is closed much like everything else, but he may have some resources to tap. I will talk with him on phone soon. i am open to any ideas or insight.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Gene; my dad called that "repair technique"; "Jack it up and run a new one under it".

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #10
PR, I'd try to reprogram the FOB to the bike and see if that fixes it.
That thought occurred to me early on, but I hesitate regarding that. One of four of the available memories of the Smart Control Unit is/was occupied by this now errant FOB. If I reprogram this same FOB* it may or probably would occupy another of the 4. Then, if the problem is an unreliable FOB I would likely soon end up with two corrupt memories out of the four useless. Plus take notice of the * I put by the "FOB" above for this footnote; the Service Manual states that a FOB, once programmed can not be programmed to another bike. Hmmmm, what are the odds that the Smart Key Controller would recognize this probably errant FOB as its own and allow its new programming to overwrite the old memory? Or that the feature that prevents reprogramming is within the FOB itself rendering it impotent. Think about all that and if you still think a re-program of same FOB is prudent.

PigeonRoost Slim
 

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Try removing the fob battery and then push the button on the fob to clear any residual voltage. If that doesn’t work, remove the fob battery again and short the fob battery terminals together to once again clear out any residual voltage.
 

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Try removing the fob battery and then push the button on the fob to clear any residual voltage. If that doesn’t work, remove the fob battery again and short the fob battery terminals together to once again clear out any residual voltage.
This is a good idea, I would try shorting the terminals with the battery removed, and I'd also replace the battery with a new one, regardless of the current batteries voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Try removing the fob battery and then push the button on the fob to clear any residual voltage. If that doesn’t work, remove the fob battery again and short the fob battery terminals together to once again clear out any residual voltage.
Just gave your suggestions a try. No go. The FOB did not excite the bike, the bike's ignition knob makes the FOB's led blink a very rapid 3 flashes (I think I said 2 flashes in the OP above, it is so fast it is hard to tell, but it is 3).

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #14
This is a good idea, I would try shorting the terminals with the battery removed, and I'd also replace the battery with a new one, regardless of the current batteries voltage.
I put a new battery in yesterday. I did short the terminals, see post above where we were posting at same time.

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So far as I can recall this is the first report of a failed FOB on this board. So I want to get the right or a right solution for our collecive reference. Fred, can you consult with your Honda engineer contacts? Maybe Mr. Schroader can put an inquiry in through Honda America.

I have not yet tried the code associated with this FOB for emergency start. Then again, I do not know what that will tell me if it works or does not work. I "speculate" that if it works, it is probably not the Smart Key Module's memory that is at fault, but "Ah dunno fer shur". ;-)

prs
 

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Just gave your suggestions a try. No go. The FOB did not excite the bike, the bike's ignition knob makes the FOB's led blink a very rapid 3 flashes (I think I said 2 flashes in the OP above, it is so fast it is hard to tell, but it is 3).

prs
Bummer. It was worth a shot. Short of replacing the fob with a new one I don’t know what else you could try. Maybe a long shot but have you disconnected the bikes battery for a few minutes?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No, I did not power down the bike. Since the other FOB functions normally, I did not think that was a plausible step. But, we may see later. Thanks for the suggestions!

prs
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is a good idea, I would try shorting the terminals with the battery removed, and I'd also replace the battery with a new one, regardless of the current batteries voltage.
Fred. Further discovery: I entered what I believed to be the original code. The bike does NOT accept it. It beeps three times at last digit entry and no access for starting. I tried the other code, the one I now suppose belongs to the operational FOB and it worked. I did previoiusly veriry function of both codes, but that was way back. I am not certain the good FOB/good code is the original or not. Schroaders may have the original copy and will search for my original key tags and notes.

This finding makes me suspect the Smart Key Module and not the "errant" FOB. The only time, so far, that I have been under the shelter is when I did the short cut to remove and replace the ECU for the Guhl procedure and last week when I used the short cut to run a power and ground wire to the Honda provided accessory block for new GPS. Neither time was the Smart Key Module manipulated as it is when removing the fuel tray when changing air filter (my first air filter change is not due).

The Service Manual in the trouble shooting warns that radio/electrical interference may prevent FOB from working. The only new such source I have is the new ZUMO XM I installed as stated above. I think that is co-incidental, but fishy..

Your thoughts appreciated.

prs
 

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I can really only see two possibilities.

1. The key fob is damaged and not working correctly. However, if this were the case, the secret code should still work to start the bike.
2. The portion of NV RAM in the smart control unit that stores the FOB data has become corrupted. If this is the case, reprogramming the FOB to the bike should correct the problem.
 

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I should qualify #2 above a little. The FOB itself stores a code in it that marries the FOB to the bike, so that the FOB can not be programmed to another bike (unless you reflash the FOB, but that's a whole other topic). I'm not sure what will happen if you try to reprogram a FOB to the same bike that it is already married to, so I can't say for certain that reprogramming the FOB to the bike will work.
 
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