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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve been using FOBO on my 2012 Goldwing for a few years. Works great, but adding air is kind of a pain!

I’m considering going Dark and through my research I’ll be needing to change air pressure more regularly.

My question is, can I use the FOBO “T” Valve with my TPMS on the Goldwing.

:cool:
 

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Don't know why it would interfere with it. I'm running a Pirelli Snow Control RF at 38 psi and have had no issues with the TPMS.
Doesn't the "T" valve attach to just the exterior of the rim? Can't see any reason for the 2 of them to work independently.

I'm sure one of our brothers will step in and clarify.....

:flg: 'Murica!
 

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Don't see any problems. Just set the alert range accordingly. I have fobo as well but not the t version. I run double dark and haven't had any problems.

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Interesting. I have the basic fobo setup and also have my oem tpms.

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Interesting. I have the basic fobo setup and also have my oem tpms.

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In post 1 8ster said he is already using the FOBO on is 2012 for a few years! 8ster 'My question is, can I use the FOBO “T” Valve with my TPMS on the Goldwing.' No he can not!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Interesting. I have the basic fobo setup and also have my oem tpms.

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I also use FOBO and my OEM TPMS, I’d like to add a T valve so I don’t have to take the FOBO on and off every time I want to change pressure.

Sounds like it not possible...
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #9
From the Darkside forum, I read that many of you are using the FOBO system with a T Valve....So it sounds like I can’t add the T Valve and utilizing the TPMS sensor. What are you all doing? Taking the TPMS sensor out? What are you doing about the light?
 

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Aloha,
On my 2016, I ran the FOBO TPMS with T-Valves and the OEM TPMS removed. To eliminate the TPMS light on dash, I called (only way to contact sales) CSC Trike and ordered their TPMS dash light by pass plug and play. Runs about $50.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Aloha,
On my 2016, I ran the FOBO TPMS with T-Valves and the OEM TPMS removed. To eliminate the TPMS light on dash, I called (only way to contact sales) CSC Trike and ordered their TPMS dash light by pass plug and play. Runs about $50.
Mahalo Nui Loa... I’m definitely going to look at that option! 8)
 

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Mahalo Nui Loa... I’m definitely going to look at that option! 8)
I'm confused about something h8ster. You say it's a pain adding are because of your fobo, makes me think that you have the fobo that screws onto the valve stem. If that's the case and you're not using the stock he TPMS that can come with the GW, then I don't see why you couldn't use the T valve, I do.
The T valve just locks in inside the tire rim, and the TPMS sending unit screws on the top of the T. Other side of the T I use for air.

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Here's a thread on turning off the TPMS light, if a piece of black tape or just ignoring it isn't your speed.

Are you using the little "security" locknuts? Just get rid of those. Without them, the FOBO cap is no more a hassle to remove than a normal cap. You can skip the T stems altogether.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm confused about something h8ster. You say it's a pain adding are because of your fobo, makes me think that you have the fobo that screws onto the valve stem. If that's the case and you're not using the stock he TPMS that can come with the GW, then I don't see why you couldn't use the T valve, I do.
The T valve just locks in inside the tire rim, and the TPMS sending unit screws on the top of the T. Other side of the T I use for air.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Here's a thread on turning off the TPMS light, if a piece of black tape or just ignoring it isn't your speed.

Are you using the little "security" locknuts? Just get rid of those. Without them, the FOBO cap is no more a hassle to remove than a normal cap. You can skip the T stems altogether.
I’m currently using both the FOBO and the OEM TPMS. I was hoping to continue to use both and add the “T” valve. That doesn’t seem to be an option.

I am considering ording the T Valves and taking the OEM sensor out of the wheel. However... Big birds suggestion about not using the security nut is a really good Idea.

Thanks to both of you for your input!
 

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Are you using the little "security" locknuts? Just get rid of those. Without them, the FOBO cap is no more a hassle to remove than a normal cap. You can skip the T stems altogether.
I think the lock nuts are more of a theft deterrent rather than for loss prevention but I use them. I have the T-stems and like them because I let FOBO give me real-time pressure reading when I add air. Also, it puts the sensor in a more protected area between the wheel spokes rather than sticking out to the side. I'm always afraid I'm going to ruin a unit cross-threading it when screwing it on the stem. The fewer times I have to remove them the better.
 

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We all have our own realities, @Kid Doc. In my world:

- the cap transmits air pressure once a minute, I think, in standard mode. That's not much of a real time aid to me at top up time.
- the main theft deterrent is that the device is coded to your account.
- that assumes the thief knows the product, but that's a safe assumption since who steals valve caps for fun?
- the nut is secondary and more of a dummy cord to me than a theft prevention.
- I'm not too worried about cross-threading but I've done more stupid things in the past, so valid point

I concur having the cap straight up and centered on the T-stem is a plus.

All that said, I have T stems and locknuts on my bike now. I'm not saying they're bad; I am saying there is not much of a "have to" (post #7) associated with using them or not using them. Player's choice. They are thoroughly adequate, neither great nor necessary.

Certainly, if you choose to get both FOBO and T stems, don't delay mounting up FOBO until a tire change (as long as you have metal stems), and don't worry about mounting the T stems until you need new rubber.
 
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