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Discussion Starter #1
The Great Sages of the Gold Wing World,:bow::bow:

I have bought a set of LED fog lamps which are the "Plug 'n Play" type.

Every thing fits together great and functions nearly as it should. The problem I am encountering is that when you hit the switch for the lamps it blows the 20 amp fuse.

:lastpost: I have tried rewiring the lights, The red and black that come out of the lamp housing just in case the wires were in back to front on the plugs (not the first time I have encountered this)

:lastpost: Tested the wiring on bike with multi meter so I know the polarity is the right way.

:lastpost: I have left the multi meter plugged in and turned on the fog lamp switch and it shows just shy of 12 volts turn fog lamp switch off and the volts go away.

But as soon as I plug in the Lights "POP" goes the fuse....

Am I drawing to many amps for the factory fitted fuse or could there be a short in the system????
My thoughts about the short is, it should kill the fuse when multi meter is plugged in to the wiring circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Check the resistance through each bulb circuit.
Sorry Cletis could you expand on that a bit more.

When it comes to auto electricity sometimes I can be as dense as cement (No insult towards you)
 

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Disconnect the lights as close to them as possible put your meter on both connections to check that you have

12V and switch operation if the fuse survives then the circuit and switch are correct, if the fuse blows without the lights you have a short after the switch before the lights

If all is well put your meter on continuity and check the lights for shorts

Check the light grounds to the chassis ground
Check the light + to chassis ground

As a last resort plug lights in one at a time and turn power on to see if you can qualify if its just one
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Disconnect the lights as close to them as possible put your meter on both connections to check that you have

12V and switch operation if the fuse survives then the circuit and switch are correct, if the fuse blows without the lights you have a short after the switch before the lights

If all is well put your meter on continuity and check the lights for shorts

Check the light grounds to the chassis ground
Check the light + to chassis ground

As a last resort plug lights in one at a time and turn power on to see if you can qualify if its just one
Circuit survives if lights are disconnected :thumbup:

Circuit dies when lights plugged in -- either one or both :frown:

The way these things are going it's gonna be cheaper to buy the company that makes the fuses soon
 

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Circuit survives if lights are disconnected :thumbup:

Circuit dies when lights plugged in -- either one or both :frown:

The way these things are going it's gonna be cheaper to buy the company that makes the fuses soon
OK so you have +12 and - where you should have on the connectors and does that line up with the connectors on the lights do they both match for both lights?

Is there a lead from the lights?

What make are they do you have a link or picture of connections?

I need to know the current rating but 20A should be OK at least for one

So we are coming to the conclusion of short in the lights, wrong wiring in the light or incoming connector or too much current draw
 

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Discussion Starter #7
G'day Pedro66

Have attached a picture of lights from W/Stuff Site from which these were bought

They are Plug-N-Play LED Fog Lights
 

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I'd also check with the company that manufactured them. My first thought is the switch is wired wrong. Are you using the factory switch location? I'd double check that area.

Good luck!
 

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I would bench test the lights...connect the lights directly to the battery via a fused line on the positive side. This will by pass all other wiring and switch work in the bike and give you an idea as to whether or not the lights are defective. Try one light at a time...if the fuse does not blow on either light...connect both...if the fuse still does not blow...your lights are good...but before tearing down the bench test...measure the current draw for future use....if lights are good...the next step is to isolate the switch and test the switch...if the switch is good...you then know you have a nicked wire somewhere...that only leads to tracing all of the wires involved. Keep in mind...if the switch has an internal circuit board and you were moving the switch around you may have cracked the circuit board...which will work fine sometimes and short other times as the circuit board vibrates or moves....

Good Luck...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Many thanks for the helpful responses about the lights everybody.

I have managed to track it down to one of the light units are faulty.

Sat down and took them both out, then wired them up to a spare battery pack I have for such an occasion. One works great blindingly even :thumbup:

The other --- nope it's faulty... plugged it into the battery pack and it tripped the circuit breaker straight away tried a couple of times and the same result. You can here a slight sizzling noise coming from the light unit and the smell of melting plastic.
They appear to be a sealed unit so no replaceable parts, so now it is a case of too-ing and fro--ing with the manufacturer to try and get a new faulty light unit replaced.
 

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They probably are not sealed as there has to be a way to get inside them to change the bulbs when they burn out.

Sounds like when they attached the wires to the bulb socket they got it wrong.

So don't open it up until you talk to the seller/maker. Sounds like they owe you a new light.

As for a 20A fuse, that sounds WAY too big. Most fog lights are 2 35W bulbs, so I would think that a 10A fuse would be more than plenty.
 

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I'm new to GW's, but have played a lot with other bikes.

Is there a harness that runs from one light across to the other side?

They might have the plug wired to the wrong polarity on the other side.

It wouldn't be a problem until you tried to turn the lights on, then it would immediately ground out and blow the fuse.
 

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Ummm, guys.. these are LED bulbs, (so he said) and draw far less than the standard 35 watt lights. You're right, a 20 amp fuse is WAY too much for that circuit alone. The standard 35 watt bulbs only draw about 6 amps (35x2=70/12=5.83) If you uses 14 volts as your number instead of a nominal 12, it's 5 amps. I'd guess they are probably maybe 8 to 10 watts each, which gets you under 2 amps draw. You definitely don't need a 20 amp fuse for that... :shock:

=Dave=
GWBBA #9
rocketmoto.com
 

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They probably are not sealed as there has to be a way to get inside them to change the bulbs when they burn out.

Sounds like when they attached the wires to the bulb socket they got it wrong.

So don't open it up until you talk to the seller/maker. Sounds like they owe you a new light.

As for a 20A fuse, that sounds WAY too big. Most fog lights are 2 35W bulbs, so I would think that a 10A fuse would be more than plenty.

All of the LED foglights I've seen (Well, the Big Bike ones, anyway) are a sealed unit, with no way in. When they go (and I've had a number of the BB ones go) the whole lamp unit gets replaced.

So the "Don't open them" is REALLY good adivce, they must carry some kind of out of the box failure warranty, at least.

=Dave=
 

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Well.... this is right down my alley with this problem... First off, I recently purchased a set of the Electrical Connection 10 watt LED driving lights. Removed my OEM Honda driving lights, plugged in the LED lights, started bike and turned on lights. Worked for around 40 seconds and then blew the 20 amp (yes , 20 amp fuse). This fuse is in the fuse block by the battery and also powers all of your running lights on the Wing. Replaced fuse with another 20 amp fuse, and it blew each time. Hooked up an amp clamp and found that the one LED was drawing .45 amps while the other one was drawing 4.6 amps! After several checks, and more 20 amp fuses, the one LED light (the one that drew 4.6 amps) quit working completely. Contacted Lewis at E.C. and they figured that I have a bad ballast in behind the LED. (these high wattage LED's actually have their own ballasts...) Lewis stated that .45 amp draw is normal, but 10 times that (4.6 amps) is definitely not good...
Still waiting for my replacement light assembly but expect that it will correct the fuse blowing issue.
 

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I installed the Hondaline LED fog lamps on my GL18 and it came with the switch AND a relay that plugs in ahead of plugging the switch.

Did you set come with a plug'n'play relay?
 
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