[Soloquest]

I've got a stuck ADV and will rebuild the entire front end, installing Progressive springs and All Balls bearings. Questions:

1. Where can I get the O-rings for the ADV unit?

2. Should I replace the fork seals? Mine seem fine, have 25k on them.

3. If I should replace the fork seals, what is the part#'s that I need? I understand that there is a special "seal grease" required. Does Hal sell that?

4. Should the fork seal dust caps be replaced?

I've been reading all the posts and studying Freds DVD's. Any other advice/tips/tricks/needed hardware/etc. in this area is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[Mockin]

I would suggest that you replace the Fork seals and dust caps in order to do a proper rebuild. You don't want to do it twice. Sorry, I don't know about your other questions. Good Luck!

 

[gpick]

If I were you after you replace the springs I would test the braking with the ADV disabled. I have Traxxion springs and cartridges, but on a normal stop on a smooth road the cartridges are not really making a difference, it is just springs. There is no dive. EVen under hard braking, there is no noticeable dive. I will bet that with your Progressives there won't be any dive either. And, if there is no dive without ADV, then why have it active? What good can it do? It can only lock up the fork and disable the suspension.

Since you will already have it all apart, you might also consider checking out the Race Tech emulators. Only costs $169 for the parts and you are already doing all of the hard work. I am taking my Burgman forks over to them tomorrow.

 

[bill1]

You may find you need air impact tools to get the allens out and back in the bottom of the shocks.

 

[americamper]

Just a idea,have you considered traxxion springs.They are not progressive wound.They may be good or bad.I am under the impression they are alittle stiffer and hold up better.But they work great on mine(200lb rider and 200lb springs).I am considering the emulators,I think they will help with the initial stiffness.

 

[Digger]

2. Should I replace the fork seals? Mine seem fine, have 25k on them.

This post is too late to help Soloquest, but, for the record:

I've torn forks apart over a dozen times on all kinds of bikes, including my GL1800. I've never replaced a seal that wasn't leaking in the first place. And, a used fork seal has never started leaking on me after fork reassembly.

If you're careful, you can get away with being cheap. I'm both.

 

[stuna]

i have the race tech valves . they work great for me , but i took it a step further . there pop off spring is 64# in .oil 10w left 15w rt . i made my own out of a old brake spring rate unknowen but lighter. set the preload light . and it works SUPER i am very picky on the ride . now things are good. race tech works and you can adj. it for your type of rideing . i have been on roads lately that i avoided . oh i put in 40# front , 45# psi rear . i did not like it back to 36,41 . last ride today and it was great.

 

[Tangleyes]

stuna, I also have the Racetech gold-valves and springs.

I am sorta confused about your setup. Would you explain again ( real slow-I don't read fast) or PM me with info?

Thanks a bunch!

Dwight