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Discussion Starter #1
Hello-I have a 2008 74000,miles left fork seal replaced twice under warranty! Looks like it is going to have to get done again! My question is what could or what should i look at to see why this keeps occurring? Obviously their is something not right that it keep's happening,That way when I bring to dealer ! I have some more information! Thank YOU
 

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Anti dive plunger stuck, or bad fork tube or installation issue.

To check the the AD, stratle the bike and hold the front brake and bounce the front suspension, after a few bounces apply the rear brake while still bouncing. The suspension should get very hard, now release both brakes and the syspension should now bounce freely with just the front brake applied.

Have a close look at the tube with the front wheel in the air, look for nicks or scratches in the bottom few inches of tube above the seal.
 

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:agree: I personally disable the antidive - both for seal longevity and not having the front lock up while going into my driveway. Also upgraded my suspension on the bikes.
 

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the anti-dive seal killer system......

The best way to check for a sticking anti-dive valve is to split the two halves. Then get an alan wrench small enough to push the plunger down of the bottom half and then remove it. The valve should follow the wrench back up 100% of the time, actually, you should feel the spring force from it pushing the wrench back up. The '06 I had was sticking and exploding the left seal the same day of seal replacement. The valve would stick closed failing my little test I just described. I had to vibrate the valve housing to get it to pop back up (sharp hits on the housing with a screwdriver handle). Checking the other half of the anti-dive valve is easier. Just hit the brakes and let it push out the plunger. This plunger is not spring loaded and will remain "out" until you push it back in. It should push in with very little effort unless you still have the brakes on.

The best fix is to put in front springs that can actually support the bike and disable the anti-dive. The only reason Honda put in this silly anti-dive system is to resolve a braking control issue created entirely by a weak and easy to collapse front end. Fix the real problem and do away with the silly band-aid.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The best way to check for a sticking anti-dive valve is to split the two halves. Then get an alan wrench small enough to push the plunger down of the bottom half and then remove it. The valve should follow the wrench back up 100% of the time, actually, you should feel the spring force from it pushing the wrench back up. The '06 I had was sticking and exploding the left seal the same day of seal replacement. The valve would stick closed failing my little test I just described. I had to vibrate the valve housing to get it to pop back up (sharp hits on the housing with a screwdriver handle). Checking the other half of the anti-dive valve is easier. Just hit the brakes and let it push out the plunger. This plunger is not spring loaded and will remain "out" until you push it back in. It should push in with very little effort unless you still have the brakes on.

The best fix is to put in front springs that can actually support the bike and disable the anti-dive. The only reason Honda put in this silly anti-dive system is to resolve a braking control issue created entirely by a weak and easy to collapse front end. Fix the real problem and do away with the silly band-aid.
Hello -Thanks for information -Last time form seal blew-I did up grade the springs & all balls! But did not disable anti dive ,As still under warranty!
 

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If you can manage it, fix the anti dive. I had mine disabled on my '02 for much the same reason, frequent seal fixes plus teeth getting jarred loose. On my '06 it works and it's great! There was someone had a kit with the proper o-rings to ensure it will work as designed.

Here is Fred's page - has lots of pics; http://www.pbase.com/fredharmon/antidive
 
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