GL1800Riders Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Last week I started a thread asking about a shortcut to replace a left side fork seal. I had rebuilt my forks two years ago and at that time replaced all seals and bushing along with Race Tech components. With less than 10k miles the left side was leaking badly. Yesterday I reassembled the front end, went for a ride and found it was leaking just as bad.
I rechecked the service manual and saw nothing on correct orientation. Normally there is no ambiguity as only one side has a spring in a slot. The Honda seal has springs and slots on both sides. One side has a chamfer and the other a raised portion. Logically the chamfer would ease installation and go in first.
Well thanks to Fred Harmon and his videos I learned the side with the larger diameter goes in first. Not intuitive.
I searched this forum and found no reference to the correct orientation.
If you are repeatedly replacing seals you might want to check how they are installed. As Fred points out the lettering goes on top.


Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The other clue is if you can install the seal with your fingers, its the wrong way. I had to make a tool and use a press to install it the correct way. BTW not only does the OD of the seal have two diameters with the larger diameter going in first but the fork leg seal location has a smaller diameter than the top most area above the clip by .015".

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
791 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Those instructions would have saved me a lot of time and headache but mine came in a gray plastic bag with no instructions other than Genuine Honda printed.

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20,947 Posts
I have much better luck with All Balls fork seals , depending on which All Balls kit you happen to buy they might or might not come with instructions, years ago the seals were red so it was pretty easy to see which way they were supposed to be installed but the last couple of sets I bought were black and with my poor vision I need to use a magnifying glass to see which way they are supposed to go, I highly recommend spending the $50 to buy the proper seal driver , it makes the job so much easier you will wonder why you ever monkeyed around making the tool from plastic pipe :thumbup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,613 Posts
Digital camera in a digital age. Take exceptionally detailed digital pictures as you remove parts and you can see how to install the new stuff. This is especially true with wire, cable and hose routing. When I filled my rear actuator I shot all the hoses and wires because my driver's license says I'm old enough to forget stuff barely 10 minutes after taking it all apart. Works wonders.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
21,871 Posts
digital camera in a digital age. Take exceptionally detailed digital pictures as you remove parts and you can see how to install the new stuff. This is especially true with wire, cable and hose routing. When i filled my rear actuator i shot all the hoses and wires because my driver's license says i'm old enough to forget stuff barely 10 minutes after taking it all apart. Works wonders.
Amen!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,274 Posts
I highly recommend spending the $50 to buy the proper seal driver , it makes the job so much easier you will wonder why you ever monkeyed around making the tool from plastic pipe :thumbup:
I agree with you there 100%. I've used the type below for the last few bikes I've worked on, and they work great!

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category/ringer_fork_seal_drivers/

That said, I've never replaced the seals on a Goldwing before... and I'm wondering what size driver does one need for the Goldwing seals?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,797 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,274 Posts
Thanks... I've got the 41mm & 37mm that I've used on other bikes. Guess I should order a 45mm to keep handy too. :)

So I take it with this tool you hammer it in like a pile driver? Might be handy if you need it on the road.
In the shop I'll use my PVC driver and 30 ton press.
LOL... well, you don't need to use a sledge on it. Just a few taps it usually all it takes to seat it correctly.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top