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Discussion Starter #1
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This is a ball from an all-balls front wheel bearing with less than 10,000 miles on it. the other three were quiet. Just an FYI kinda thing.
 

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FWIW, I have seen a lot of negative posts about the Allballs wheel bearings and that there isnt enough grease used inside the assembly. I came across that after I had already installed Allballs bearings as replacements many years ago on my GL1500 front wheel. Even though they were considered sealed bearings, the face could be popped out and it was recommended to add grease to them. I did that and never had an issue. Not sure if the same is true on the GL1800 AllBalls wheel bearings. But even though the AllBalls wheel bearings were questionable, the steering stem bearings from AllBalls were always highly recommended...
 

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The wheel bearings that I used on my old CB750F's I would get from the local bearing supply house, and would ask for INA or TIMKEN, and would ask for the singe SHIELD, and NOT the double sealed type. You could pack the single shield type. I wasn't a fan of the double sealed type simply because you couldn't tell what kind or of how much grease was factory installed.
 

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IronMan
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I just put all balls tapered in my stem and regreased them not much on them out of box !
 
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Discussion Starter #8
FWIW, I have seen a lot of negative posts about the Allballs wheel bearings and that there isnt enough grease used inside the assembly. I came across that after I had already installed Allballs bearings as replacements many years ago on my GL1500 front wheel. Even though they were considered sealed bearings, the face could be popped out and it was recommended to add grease to them. I did that and never had an issue. Not sure if the same is true on the GL1800 AllBalls wheel bearings. But even though the AllBalls wheel bearings were questionable, the steering stem bearings from AllBalls were always highly recommended...
Agreed, a tapered roller bearing is the better steering head bearing. I’ve installed many of those (All-balls brand) with very good luck.

This wheel bearing had plenty of grease, just poor metallurgy for a high speed application.
 

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I just put all balls tapered in my stem and regreased them not much on them out of box !

Uncle John, how'd you fare from Dorian?
It's 6:15AM here in Charleston, SC and we're getting some wind and a bunch of rain. Should be heavier stuff coming in around noon.
 

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Uncle John, how'd you fare from Dorian?
It's 6:15AM here in Charleston, SC and we're getting some wind and a bunch of rain. Should be heavier stuff coming in around noon.
Best of luck to you with that, hope it stays off shore.
 

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IronMan
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Uncle John, how'd you fare from Dorian?
It's 6:15AM here in Charleston, SC and we're getting some wind and a bunch of rain. Should be heavier stuff coming in around noon.
GREAT ON STORM !! :bow::yes: HAVE HAD WORSE THUNDER STORMS HERE THAN THAT ! LITTLE RAIN AND WIND . LOOKS LIKE YOU NEED TO GET YOUR UMBRELLA OUT !! GOOD LUCK ! THANKS FOR ASKING !
 

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Overfilling a sealed bearing with too much grease can be just as harmful as underfilling a sealed bearing.

When a sealed bearing is overfilled, there’s no space for the heat to dissipate. As heat builds, the bearing can find itself operating at temperatures above what are considered normal [for the installation]. As the bearing’s temperature rises, the grease begins to break down due to churning. This churning causes the bearing’s temperature to continue to rise, which in turn increases the rate at which the grease breaks down. The tit-for-tat continues until damage to the bearing occurs due to an insufficient amount of lubricant to separate the sliding and rolling surfaces of the bearing.

If you feel the need to pack/repack a sealed bearing, place a rubber wheel on a drill and with one of the seals removed, use the drill to spin the bearing for 30 seconds or so. There’s no need to go crazy with the speed. You just need to spin the bearing long enough to evenly purge the bearing of excess grease. Reinstall the seal after the excess grease has been removed.

You can also purge the bearing of excess grease by hand. Just takes a little longer to get there.
 

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For wheel bearings, is there a reason to use anything but OEM?
My first guess would be price. The AllBalls Bearing Kit (Front Wheel) for the 2018 is $20.38. The price for the same items/same quantity from Partzilla is $49.10 (list) $39.52 (their price).

For certain items, I never consider purchasing anything but OEM. Bearings happen to be one such item.
 
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