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Discussion Starter #1
How many follow torque spec. when installing their wheels ?

How many don't care and don't think torque spec. and proper wheel installation Procedures are important ?

How many trust their shop or tire installer to follow proper installation of wheels using the guidelines set by Honda that are written in the owners manuel and shop manuel ?

How many just tighten the lugs and axle bolt and let it ride, it will be ok ?
 

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I torque the front pinch bolts, axle bolt, caliper bolts, and rear lugs. I don't torque the fender mount allens, but use a torque-limiting electric driver on them.

Me too, on every bike we have the front end off of. I use a t handle driver for the fender bolts, etc. I might take them out with an electric, but always put them back by hand.

=Dave=
GWBBA #9
rocketmoto.com
 

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I will not let a dealer mount my wheels and if they did I will pull them and remount to verify proper torque specs. I do not want my wheels to fall off.:shrug:
 

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I torque to spec where it might kill me if I didn't tighten enough, or it might break somethin' if too tight. I've reviewed most of the torque specs in the Service Manual.

Most everywhere else it's the "guttentight" method.
 

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If there is a torque value, I use it....except for the plastic attachments and the oil filter (hand tight plus 1/4 turn with a filter wrench).
 

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I torque the front pinch bolts, axle bolt, caliper bolts, and rear lugs. I don't torque the fender mount allens, but use a torque-limiting electric driver on them.

:agree:
I do the same but like Dave put them back by hand. I sometimes use the impact or air wrench to remove things such as lugnuts or axle bolt but wouldn't trust putting them back in (especially smaller stuff like the allens) with air tools, would either strip something out or break it.
 

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Sometimes the sequence is just as important as the torque spec.

What I get a kick out of are the bolts (or nuts) that have a torque spec that you can hardly even get a wrench on much less a torque wrench. It cost you an additional 8 hours of labor to remove the engine so we could torque one bolt to spec.


Or you could just tighten it half turn before breaking the bolt off!
 

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All that is common sense. Any situation with your wheels, rims, suspension, bearings, tires, and or main parts of engine, drive train, rear drive and so on, you should follow the manufactures specifications for proper torque.

The rest of it, fenders, seat, farkles, rotor covers, fender extensions, etc , hey just snug is cool. Heavy handed only strips out fasteners, and if one were to fall out, which I have never had happen, to loose a fastener is better than to have to drill out one snapped off.

Then there are the front rotor bolts, which require 15 ft. lbs of torque, well that is a bit much, even new bolts if used(most of us use the old ones) one of them may snap off. So with them good and snug with thread lock is the way to go. Those bolts are very soft, and do snap sometimes. As do the brake caliper bolts, you can use them a time or two then you should replace with new ones.

Or do like I do, put some anti seize on them stuff them back in there and just use a calibrated elbow and tighten them. Never seen one of them fall out either............yet.......although it has happened, most likely because it was left hand tight at a dealership.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the replies. Reason for the thread is that a local tire installer doesn't use torque values or proper wheel installation procedures and said I was an idiot for doing so. I just wanted to get some honest replies from other wingers.

Thank you,
Craig
 

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If you have a torque wrench use it, if not get one.
I use the torque specs for everything I can get to with a torque wrench.
 
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