[thessler]

Hi
I have a 2008 I bought it new so I now this bike pretty well.

When it was new if you take your hands off around forty decelerating it wobbled a bit. That was certainly acceptable.

Now 55,000 miles later it wobbles around forty with hands on the bars, and it doesn't matter deceleration or acceleration. I'm not talking a little wobble, it's a pretty good shake.

I have retourqued the head bearing, no improvement. I have gone over the tires and rims real close and they are dead on.
If I grab the lower fork sliders they have some play back and forth, not much but it is there and it's definitley not play in the head bearings.
Had dealer check that out and he said it's ok, I guess a little play in that wont hurt ??
I'm not sure that would cause this wobble problem anyway.
I just ordred tappered bearings, but that is only to mask the problem I really would like to know what is causing this and fix it properly.
Any thoughts welcome
Thanks, Tom

 

[ScottR]

Typical. Most 'Wingers in central PA install tapered bearings in the front forks. The wobble disappears and never returns.

 

[whacker]

NO wobbles on my 2012, never had any on the 15 that couldn't be explained by tire condition, pressures or road condition. Many have solved the problem with new bearings and/or fork brace. Make sure to check the rear end as well, have heard that problems back there can cause problems up front.

 

[ghump]

The list of possible causes of the wobbles is very long. What's the condition of the tires? Check the condition of the rear preload, shock and spring. Is it preloading right from #1. A sagging rear end could cause problems up front. I did hear of one case where the wobbles were solved by a rear wheel that was not bolted correctly. Loosen all the rear bolts and be sure the rear wheel is seated right. Good luck!!! It can be a tough problem to troubleshoot and solve.

 

[thessler]

Thanks for the replys

Since this has become an issue about a year ago, both tires have been replaced and I have recently checked them.

Preload was set the day I bought it and I have never moved the dial since. Maybe i'll fool with that tomorrow.
Thanks, Tom

 

[TXREALTOR]

55K, check and tourque your head bearings. It is probably time and mine were dreadfully undertightened from the factory. If you are going to all that trouble replacing them may be a good idea. If you like the feel of the OEM, check them and grease and replace them. They could possibly have damage by now, so a look see won't hurt.

PS Did mine at 30K and no problems since unless I let the front get below 37 PSI, very predictable, so :shrug:.

YMMV

 

[Waldo]

55k means you are likely due for a fork rebuild. Worn bushings will loosen up the front end considerably and if ignored can damage the $$$$ expensive tube.

 

[JonfromCB]

Thessler, I feel your pain. After experiencing, reading opinions, and
systematically making changes recommeded by mechanics and people
on this board I got rid of the wobble and have come up with my own
theory on the wobble.

My first change was tires...wobble went away for a short time, but
I noticed that as miles went on the stock suspension the tires
were wearing (scalloping, cupping, etc) out faster with each set.

Next went to beads in tires....seemed smoother with new tires
but above issue all returned.

Next went with tapered head bearings (All Balls) problem left
for a few months, but as tires wore the wobble returned.

Checked wheels, allignment, axles, bearings and swing arm...all ok

I also noticed that within about 1 1/2 riding seasons the stock
suspension went from what I thought was "OK" for a 950+ pound
bike to me thinking "this suspension sucks compared to
my other bikes" My Wing suspension was worn out by my standards
in less than 20K so I went with Race Tech "full monty."

Here's my theory (along with agreeing with almost every other
opinion here and elswhere about the things that contribute to
the Wing Wobble....The two forks in the Wing have very different
functions that are physicallly contrary one to the other. Anti-dive
on one side and relatively traditionally normal function on the other
side. As the Wing slows down and additional weight is transferred
to the front end, with one side fighting against dive and the
other side doing it's own entirely different function it doesn't
take much input from a bump, steering head play, uneven tires
misallignment of the center plain of the machine, more break
pull on one side than the other, a sticking fork seal on one
side, etc, etc, etc to exaggerate the already existing "play"
inheirent between the left and right fork tubes. Some stock wings don't
wobble (temporarily) because all the parts are working in a balanced
fashion like they are supposed too, but time and wear seem to
amplfy just enough flex in the front suspension for the Wobble
to show up. That's my theory.

From all the posts on this board and others about the Wobble, it
appears that the best lasting approach is a front end rebuild
ensuring every thing is working perfectly on both sides. It also
appears that rebuids with "better than stock" aftermarket parts like
Progressive, Race Tech, and Traxxion are much more successful at
ending the issue and keeping it away for a longer period as well as
providing all the other benefits that the undersprung poorly
engineered stock suspension just can't deliver. Good Luck

 

[Ed Z]

Ditto what he said...:agree:

 

[Richard Clem]

agreed

I am mildly concerned by this, but I agree 100% with what Jon said. Adding that the basic design of the bike increases the possiblity of head shake. I understand that one of the more common add-ons for sport bikes is a steering head dampener.

Richard

 

[Tryker]

People have found there are many causes, most listed somewhere above.

But the play you feel is in the bushings inside the fork. If they haven't been changed in 55K miles, I'd change them, not even bothering to look at their condition except for information, and the fork oil. It's a thing that should be done, wobble or no wobble, and it might help. The fact that things have gotten worse over time is suggestive.

When you changed tires, was there any change? Did you get the same brand and model? Tires seem to be important, in a couple of ways.

If you go through all the suggestions above, and are still frustrated, many have found relief by installing the tapered roller steering bearings, and slightly overtorquing them to get a damping effect.

Perhaps the ultimate solution is a Seeley fork damper, but it's several hundred dollars.

 

[LarryM]

Since you have already checked the head bearing torque and replaced your tires, get the front tire off the ground and see if there is a notch in the steering right in the middle. You may have to move the handlebars slowly and lightly to feel it.

My bike has 60K on it now. The wobble has always gone away with new tires, not returning until I had 6-7 K on them. This time it didn't go away. I found out tonight during a check that my head bearing is notched.

Looks like I'm going to be replacing bearings and rebuilding a suspension this winter. A worn out front suspension can cause the bike to wobble. 60K is a reasonable mileage to start thinking about a rebuild anyway.

 

[laen]

Traxxion

 

[Tryker]

Traxxion

Seeley thanks you for making their steering damper look like a cost effective solution.

 

[Roadie]

My 2003 didn't start the decel wobble until there was 9K miles on the odometer. I installed new Bridgestones front and rear and the wobble was gone for about 4K miles and then returned. I upgraded the suspension with Traxxion's AK-20 fork kit and the Traxxion rear shock along with All Balls steering bearings. The decel wobble was cured with the same worn tires that it wobbled with before the upgrades. I havn't had the decel wobble since the upgrades regardless of tire wear.....I torqued the All Balls to 20 ftlbs.

 

[BugEyedTurkey]

After installation of Centramatic balancers... the wobble on my 2005 went away at any speed. :roll:

 

[morriebowie]

Here's a fool proof fix that won't cost you a dime.
Keep one hand on the handlebars when decelerating.
Try it.

 

[orne]

I hve an '02 and it wobbled in the same conditions you are experiencing. Do not know what cured it but last winter i changed three things:

• All Balls tapered stem bearings
• Progsessive springs along with fresh oil
• Centramatics

No wobble at any speed for the last 7000mi. And the ride is like on glass:thumbup:

From the Land of Ice and Fire
Eagleman

 

[mejojo]

....The two forks in the Wing have very different functions that are physicallly contrary one to the other. Anti-dive
on one side and relatively traditionally normal function on the other
side. As the Wing slows down and additional weight is transferred
to the front end, with one side fighting against dive and the
other side doing it's own entirely different function

Maybe I completely misunderstand the design of this bike, but isn't the "anti-dive" functionality 100% the action of the Anti Dive Valve that is only actuated (if it isn't stuck and it hasn't been disabled) when you grab the brake lever?

Is there any other "anti-dive" function going on when you aren't braking?

 

[LarryM]

Yes Joe. You are correct. The anti-dive is essentially out of circuit during riding, and has no effect on the suspension until you hit the brakes.